2004 Explorer gauges going haywire
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2004 Explorer gauges going haywire
I have a 2004 Explorer XLS with 130,000 on it. About 15 months ago at start up the oil gauge would not rise and click for 3-4 seconds and then just remain at zero. Took it to a shop and they said the cluster most likely needed to get replaced for about $900. I decided to suck it up and deal with it. A few months after that the batter gauge did the same thing. Now I am screwed, the odometer blanks out and when it does the radio goes out and the lights on the electric windows go out too.
I have read the thread about the odometer black out and resoldering the pin for that. Is that likely the right fix? Solder the bad pins on the board or does it sound like I need to replace the whole thing?
I really don't have the cash to do the $900ish shop repair and am willing to try anything.
What more can I do?
Thanks for the help.
I have read the thread about the odometer black out and resoldering the pin for that. Is that likely the right fix? Solder the bad pins on the board or does it sound like I need to replace the whole thing?
I really don't have the cash to do the $900ish shop repair and am willing to try anything.
What more can I do?
Thanks for the help.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,817
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
The instrument cluster issues should not have any connection to the radio or power windows. Since you also mentioned the battery gauge, don't be too quick to dismiss this as a module problem versus a battery problem. On these newer vehicles with pretty much everything driven by a control module, they are quite power hungry and sensitive to a strong electrical system.
If your battery is 3 years old or more, I'd suggest replacing it before getting too concerned about an instrument cluster issue. And don't necessarily trust those charging and battery system tests performed by the chain auto parts stores. I've seen those "pass" bad batteries on more than one occasion. I haven't yet seen them fail a good battery though.
I've experienced an array of strange electrical gremlins that were solved by installing a new battery, and I've read of several others on various forums that have had similar experiences.
-Rod
If your battery is 3 years old or more, I'd suggest replacing it before getting too concerned about an instrument cluster issue. And don't necessarily trust those charging and battery system tests performed by the chain auto parts stores. I've seen those "pass" bad batteries on more than one occasion. I haven't yet seen them fail a good battery though.
I've experienced an array of strange electrical gremlins that were solved by installing a new battery, and I've read of several others on various forums that have had similar experiences.
-Rod
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,817
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Since you're willing to try anything, do you have access to a multimeter? If so, place the meter across the battery terminals with the engine off. Set it to DCV (or 20VDC scale if not auto-ranging). Record the reading. Now, if the meter has a "Min" setting, enable that. If not, have a second person watch the meter, or position it such that you can see it from the driver's seat. Turn the key to the Start position and monitor for the lowest voltage that the meter shows while the starter motor is engaged. Record that minimum voltage. Now, with the engine running, the headlights on, and the blower motor on Hi, record the system voltage.
Report back the recorded voltages here.
-Rod
Report back the recorded voltages here.
-Rod
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,817
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
If you have a Harbor Freight Tools store nearby, you might be able to find a free multimeter coupon and pick one up there. Otherwise you could probably find a decent $20 meter at a local hardware store that would work fine for these tests. A $20 meter probably won't have the Min feature, but that's easy to work around. I doubt you'll find one in the Loan a Tool program.
-Rod
-Rod
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