Van Protection & Insulation
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 504
Likes: 3
From: West Texas
thermos bottle
I did not place any absorbent material against the body sheet metal...so any moisture that does collect will either evaporate or drip down to the weep holes as FoMoCo and gravity intended.
All of the insulation I added is more or less within the interior with about a one inch air space all the way around...except for a few places I added radiant barrier up against the sheet metal.
I did not want to place any fiberglass batting or sprayfoam insulation where it could trap moisture against the metal.
So far, no interior rust...although...I do live in a mostly dry area.
All of the insulation I added is more or less within the interior with about a one inch air space all the way around...except for a few places I added radiant barrier up against the sheet metal.
I did not want to place any fiberglass batting or sprayfoam insulation where it could trap moisture against the metal.
So far, no interior rust...although...I do live in a mostly dry area.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Welp. Tried to get inside the van to start spraying the surface down and cleaning the dirt last night... by the time I went to wipe with paper towel, it was frozen. Might just powerwash it from the cab out the back or I have to wait until temps get above single digits.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 504
Likes: 3
From: West Texas
rubbing
Just a possibility....my 2 cents.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 5
From: N Ca.
MSDS sheets list the chemical components but they can't and don't address how they'll react in situations or applications they were never intended to be used in. As such unless we're chemical engineers knowing the components of spray foam don't necessarily tell us how they'll react to surfaces or materials they weren't designed to be applied over.
I was just looking for the obvious.......
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
There's a million things we could do but why over complicate something just to use one product that's not compatible with the project?
By the time we spread plastic sheeting we could have applied the radiant barrier insulation after which fiberglass bats or foam boards cut and fitted to the spaces behind what would be interior walls.
FWIW the radiant barrier material is the only insulation inside a decommissioned 2000 E250--a former work truck. Nothing more than a double layer on the side walls, lower cavities filled with fiberglass. (There is a raised fiberglass roof, heavily insulted with fiberglass bats.)
With a 60,000 BTU aftermarket rear heater the cargo area was easily heated to 65* while parked and idling during a job. I mention this only to show the radiant barrier stuff does quite well by itself.
By the time we spread plastic sheeting we could have applied the radiant barrier insulation after which fiberglass bats or foam boards cut and fitted to the spaces behind what would be interior walls.
FWIW the radiant barrier material is the only insulation inside a decommissioned 2000 E250--a former work truck. Nothing more than a double layer on the side walls, lower cavities filled with fiberglass. (There is a raised fiberglass roof, heavily insulted with fiberglass bats.)
With a 60,000 BTU aftermarket rear heater the cargo area was easily heated to 65* while parked and idling during a job. I mention this only to show the radiant barrier stuff does quite well by itself.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 504
Likes: 3
From: West Texas
packing heat
If there is repetitive, relative movement and friction between the hardened sprayfoam and the body sheetmetal, the plastic will quickly wear through. Besides, the inevitable folds and wrinkles in the plastic will probably trap moisture...back to square one!
I agree with JWA....keep sprayfoam where it belongs, in buildings and houses and sheds..not moving vehicles.
I agree with JWA....keep sprayfoam where it belongs, in buildings and houses and sheds..not moving vehicles.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 5
From: N Ca.
There's a million things we could do but why over complicate something just to use one product that's not compatible with the project?
By the time we spread plastic sheeting we could have applied the radiant barrier insulation after which fiberglass bats or foam boards cut and fitted to the spaces behind what would be interior walls.
FWIW the radiant barrier material is the only insulation inside a decommissioned 2000 E250--a former work truck. Nothing more than a double layer on the side walls, lower cavities filled with fiberglass. (There is a raised fiberglass roof, heavily insulted with fiberglass bats.)
With a 60,000 BTU aftermarket rear heater the cargo area was easily heated to 65* while parked and idling during a job. I mention this only to show the radiant barrier stuff does quite well by itself.
By the time we spread plastic sheeting we could have applied the radiant barrier insulation after which fiberglass bats or foam boards cut and fitted to the spaces behind what would be interior walls.
FWIW the radiant barrier material is the only insulation inside a decommissioned 2000 E250--a former work truck. Nothing more than a double layer on the side walls, lower cavities filled with fiberglass. (There is a raised fiberglass roof, heavily insulted with fiberglass bats.)
With a 60,000 BTU aftermarket rear heater the cargo area was easily heated to 65* while parked and idling during a job. I mention this only to show the radiant barrier stuff does quite well by itself.
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