I just completed my install of an electric fuel pump in my 1993 F250. Just wanted to share some pics that might help someone in the future... This forum has been very helpful and I hope this is useful to someone else...

Finished:


I first considered making an angle bracket and mounting it to the big open area on the fender behind the passenger side battery, but decided it as the fender is plastic and I wanted to add some mounting for my headlight relays.

I used a piece of 1" x 1/8" angle iron mounted onto the bolts for the fuel filter. I had to replace one bolt with a longer one to reach through the add'l thickness. If memory serves it is a 3/8" x 16 x 1.75". It's the shiny one on the right here:


I didn't account for the height above the mounting points that would be required for pump clearance so I had to add a couple of brackets to drop the pump down about 3". From here there is still room to unscrew the clear bowl and remove the filter for cleaning.

I was able to re-use the bolt for the right side on the left side, with two washers behind the angle iron to keep it straight across. As you can see I had to notch the bar with an angle grinder for the fuel filter inlet, and instead of using a 90 elbow I had to use a straight 3/8" hose barb x 3/8 mpt.


The whole piece of angle iron is 18" long, which seemed a bit much but I didn't want to be cramped for space and figured it would be a good place to mount the relays for the headlights. I followed the guide from FTE called "Whiter whites, brighter brights". The relays in order left to right are low beams, high beams, fuel pump.

I used relay pigtail plugs which will make it easy to swap relays if they were ever to fail. Ordered a 5 pack on Amazon:

I'll have to keep a couple extra in the glove box as my fuel system and lights both depend on them... both important systems. I soldered and used heat-shrink on every connection. Took a good bit more time but considering the vibration and importance of these connections I didn't want to just go with crimped connections.

The pump comes prewired with a packard connector (male terminals) so I got these on Amazon:
And wired in a female connector. This way if I ever need to replace the pump I can just unplug the old one and plug in the new... makes for a bit neater install too.

For power I mounted the six fuse block to the top of the rail. Power comes to this block from the solenoid right behind the passenger side battery. 20 amp fuses for the lights and a 5 amp fuse for the pump. All wiring is 14 gauge with the exception of the signal wire for the pump relay being 18 (I think). The signal is only to turn the relay on and power for the pump is pulled from the fuse block. I soldered on a ring terminal to some 18 ga and added it to the fuel shutoff solenoid (I think that's what it's called):


It's the nut on the right side with the loomed wire. I wanted to avoid cutting into any factory loom or wiring.

The pump is a Facet Dura-Lift 40223 which I picked up here: AM-41-7059 Facet Dura-Lift Fuel Pump for Thermo King & Carrier Transicold @ AfterMark LLC

Pump takes 1/4" mpt x 3/8" hose barb 90 elbows.

I used this block off plate as it comes with bolts (shorter than the ones used to hold the actual pump in):

I bought 10' of 3/8 Gates fuel line at NAPA for $1.99/foot and might have used about 5 feet total. The only lines I replaced are from the tank hard line up to the pump and then from the pump out to the fuel filter.

Lessons learned - be ready when you get the fuel line off the stock pump, as it will just siphon off your fuel tank. I was able to get the new hose connected and plugged before I lost too much...

I know this is long and not a step-by-step but hopefully the pics give some idea of what is involved. I gathered all the materials and then spend all day Saturday working on it. 3 hours Sunday to finish up wiring and looming everything while charging the batteries back up. Soldering and heat-shrinking all the electrical definitely took the longest.

Cheers! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/i.../party0005.gif
Jason

 

I did something similar. I had 4 light relays I needed to mount in addition to the fuel pump relay. I used a power distribution box for the light relays and just mounted the 5th relay on the fender. I used a airtex E8012s pump mounted on the frame. Good job on the soldering and Heatshrinking. I use a heavy duty set of crimping pliers, but I do solder small stuff.

 

I know this is an older thread but how'd you route the fuel line from the factory hard line to the electric pump? The hard line faces the block, so did you just curve the new rubber line straight up and to the pump or did you leave in the factory curly-q design and then to the electric pump?

Thank you

 

jay3112 has not been active since 2019

Click on his user name and send a private message.
It might go to his e-mail, I don`t know for sure.

By curly Q I guess you mean the rubber line at the mechanical
Fuel Pump?
I know you remove the old pump and place a Block Off plate on
the Engine Block.
Haven`t done this mod. but I would assume you could screw in a
Barb Fitting to the Hard Line that attached to the old pump, and
use new rubber hose and push onto the Barb.

But I guess you could run rubber line up to the Filter/Electric Pump.
I have seen where some have used Parker Push Lock Hose also.

Charlie

 

Cut the pipe before the bend, then use rubber hose up to the pump. Then replace the filter heard line with a MIP threaded to barb. Run your hose then use clamps. Works fine.