Don't know what i do wrong but it seems that when i post it get cut. Maybe i don't hold my mouth right when i type? I'm still trying to find out about self test on the v10 2001 . I see lot of mention of it but no one talks as to what it is? if no one knows sorry i bothered you all but if some one know please ansewer me and i will give you my e mail or phone so we can talk.

 

Do you mean like a diagnostic check that the computer goes through at start up?

 

not sure but someone was talking about haveing problems with codes not show and had someone do a self test on it. and that was how they were finding things wrong. thanks

 

deniorod

Your post is about "preformance test", and a question on "self test", then in second post you ask another question that gave us a few more clues about what you might want to know so here goes a stab:

At startup the computer and several systems do a "Self Test" and you don't really have much control over what is happening other than to stop it by turning the key off. The owners manual has clues about what some of the flashing lites and icons mean and for some they will let you know if a system has a fault or problem.

The newer vehicles from most manufactures have a computer port somewhere in the system that a test device can be attached to run more in depth tests.

There are devices consumers can buy that will simply "read" any codes that the computer has kept in memory, usually they indicate some fault or system failure.

Here at FTE (there are other places) you can buy a device that will read codes AND let you change some of the computer programing to get more power, calibrate speedometer and other things.

If you could be more precise in your topic and question there are many folks here that can and will give you a more focused answer.

 

Fredvon4 I understand all the tings you are talking about. Maybe i miss understood the post about a self test. they were talking about haveing a problem and ford not being able to help them cause there were no codes showing , someone came back with get a friend\ mechanic to do a self test at home . If ford can't pull any codes the hand helds that you buy wont do it ( right.) this started when i took my truck to work and it would not hold 70 going up a small hill and it use to. only has 5000 miles on it and it seem to be find when i parked it. can't pull 3800 lbs up small hill without dropping to 3rd. any help would be nice ford has no clues.

 

Fredvon4 I understand all the tings you are talking about. Maybe i miss understood the post about a self test. they were talking about haveing a problem and ford not being able to help them cause there were no codes showing , someone came back with get a friend\ mechanic to do a self test at home . If ford can't pull any codes the hand helds that you buy wont do it ( right.) this started when i took my truck to work and it would not hold 70 going up a small hill and it use to. only has 5000 miles on it and it seem to be find when i parked it. can't pull 3800 lbs up small hill without dropping to 3rd. any help would be nice ford has no clues.

 

Find a COMPETENT dealer or private mechanic. The onboard computer PCM has too much info in it and many INcompetent shops have no idea about how to use the info.

Low power and can't climb hill are pretty vague and I don't know but here is another stab...

One mans hill is another mans mountain....

6% grade for 3 miles is a steep hill, 500foot climb over 1 mile is pretty shallow

At 10,000 feet there is Much less Oxygon to burn so a normally aspirated engine looses power.

Cheap, dirty, fuel will kill most of todays engines. I only use Chevron with Techron!

Weak fuel pump, restricted fuel filter, restricted air filter, or clogged injectors can rob goobs of power.

3.73:1 gears and tall (33" or taller, factory standard is 31") tires will kill towing up hills because of lost mechanical advantage, and much lower RPMs on engine will not have it in the "power band".

But your telling note is that you can't hold 70 with modest load up hill without dropping to 3rd.

I will assume 4R100 auto trans... if so, 3rd is high gear 1:1, and dropping out of OverDrive (OD) to High is normal for what you are describing. You should be able to run 3rd gear way up to 4800rpm and be really zooming up the hill at 75-85mph!

So V10, 5000+ miles, 3800lb load?, hill/mountain? 4X4 or 4X2? dually, big tires, long bed 4 door,

give us a little more, but I really suspect that your truck is doing OK.

 

2001 , 5000 miles ,4x4 dually ,single cab, 5 speed, 3.73 ,stock tire's ,flat bed , bed weighs about 800 lbs. 200 foot climb 1/2 mile 71 mph 2200 rpm drops to 53 mph empty. hang car trailer on back 3800-4500 lbs 400 ft climb1 1/2 miles down to 3 rd gear 45 mph. i know power does not come on tell around 2600 rpm but this truck should pull small hills in od at 2300 rpm don't want to pat myself on back but im a damn good mechanic been wrenching for 40 years everthing from full blown race trucks to semi rigs just have a hard time with all this new eletrical stuff 4500 ft elvation new fuel & air filter cause it sat so long on lot.

 

Well some of the lost power is the altitude, some to the duals, but the V10 should walk up and down hills you are describing all day long in high gear, or what ever it takes to keep the rpm above 2400 or so. Truth is that much under this rpm all of our empty trucks shift out of OD even on slight grades.

Maybe running blown trucks you are expecting too much?

Still could be cheap or reformulated fuels as this engine has a few that it does NOT like.

Also they may have sold you one with a bad code...they are out there... in fact during the early 2001 year the factory had some terrible codes Mine is coded IWG0 and it is one strong engine!

 

I hate to say this but there are V-10's out there that are complete dogs. Read some of the other posts here, there's proof. My bro in law has a 2001 S/C that I got for him, and my 98 E-350 will run circles around it. And yet his 2000 dually, crew cab will run circles around his 2001 too. I drove the 01 and I thought there was something wrong with it, it felt like there was a potato in the exhaust pipe. It wouldn't rev, it had no power, it felt dead. I seriously do not know what the difference was, but I've seen posts like yours before, and I know the posters were honest. Good luck finding what's wrong, if anything.

 

fredvon4 how do i find the code your talking about. thanks

 

fredvon4 how do i find the code your talking about. You know the funny thing about this it runs strong and it sounds like 4 barrels opening until i turn the nose up hill then when i stick my foot in it it is quiet no rumble. im going to take it for arun tomorrow and try some different things . i live 100 miles from the closes gas so some times it get fuel out of tank here on the ranch if it is a fuel problem got any fuel additives on the top of your list to try

 

I am by no means an expert on all things Ford SD V10, but I do know because I am **** about things like this...

Chevron 87 with Techron gives me the most power and milage. All other fuels I have used were just plain flat, performance wise. I also was very disapointed with the performance of several "re-formulated" fuels I was stuck using on cross country trips.

In Fact the oxygonated fuel I got in eastern Colorado purely sucked... I thought I had really screwd up and got bad fuel so stopped into a Ford dealer in Colorado Springs for a new filter. He laughed at me and told me it was the fuel. Soon as I got real 87 gasoline in New Mexico the power came back and the truck stopped acting like it was wanting to die at lights.

Two places to see the code. My factory sticker is on the drivers door, on the flat up and down side closest to the hinges and "A piller". About a 1"X1.25" white paper sticker with computer looking dot matrix 4 letter code. The chip sellers say that there is a similar sticker in the engine compartment by the computer wireing harnes, or it is inside the computer cover. I have never looked, but I suspect for most trucks this will be true as they need the code to program their chips and I trust they would know.

I have not fussed with any additives, mainly because I believe MOST of them are snake oil designed to part the buyer with his money. Logic tells me that any of them that may be real good would have been bought out by companies who would not benifit from you useing them. There are a few products I use, but don't know of any magic elixer.

Don't be tempted to use octane boosters unless you are deliberatly trying to raise the 82 or 85 crap fuel to 87... and even there, I have no idea how to determin the amount to use to raise the fuel 2 to 5 RON points.

Look up and shoot NoMo ( a guru poster here) a note and ask his advice on the codes. He and I (and many others here) used to hang out at the Deisel site in the Gas section and a couple of years ago there was plenty of chat on good and bad codes.

Ford has a high altitude code, a California code, and about 12 "other" undocumented codes. Some folks in the early years were complaining loudly about "flutter" and some Dealers reflased to a code that got rid of the flutter at the expense of power. I have no earthly idea how to get a dealer to flash a specific code. In fact most dealers don't even know they can do it.

I am very fortunate to have a Competent service desk at my dealer. You would not believe the horror stories about dumb *** incompetent service managers.