When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi
I have a BEAUTIFUL 1967 Ford F-250 Ranger Camper Special. Turquoise on White. Built 428 Cobra, Engle Cam, Hooker headers, Holly Equipt. Built C-6, Dana 60 Limited Slip . Air, Cruise..In near perfect shape. It's a hunting truck that runs real well.
My question is one that has plagued me for years.
It seems that my dash cluster is receiving less than 12 volts so the fuel gauge reads low on both tanks (when Full) and the alternator gauge doesn't even move - even if I pull the connector out of the Voltage regulator. The charging system is working fine. (13.5 - 14.5V)
I replaced the cluster's voltage regulator to no avail
Any ideas?.
I guess I do not have permissions to post pictures.
Wonder if you might be spending too much time fretting over a very minor issue that instead you just need to wipe a big smile on your face and go with it.
The truck is nearly 50 years old, it has some aches & pains.
Your concern can very well be at the tank and it's end of the circuit.
LOL
Yea she's old and has a few miles under the tires but she still turns heads.
BOTH tanks read low so the issue isn't that it's the tanks electronics, it's elsewhere.
Call me odd but this truck is nearly PERFECT and I want it PERFECT.
EVERYTHING else works like it's supposed to and I'd sure like to know what is left of the fuel. It's just a minor inconvenience you know.
I thought I'd troll this site and see.
It's NOT the grounds or the regulator. No accessories tapped off the cluster either.
This one is odd. It's been this way for over 30 years.
P.S. I have a couple pictures in my Gallery. I'm trying to figure out how to get one on this thread. Haven't figured it out yet because of limited time.
Ground your sending unit leads to see if the gauges move. If needles move, then problem is the sending units which the logical conclusion is that the floats are junk because they contain fuel.
Ground your sending unit leads to see if the gauges move. If needles move, then problem is the sending units which the logical conclusion is that the floats are junk because they contain fuel.
2X Rich. I'd pull one of the senders and check to see if there's fuel in it. Bet there is. Still available from Ford but they are on backorder at the moment. part number C0AZ9202B.
Thanks
By that (grounding) I take it you mean to take the POSITIVE side off the sending unit and ground it.
If the fuel gauge reads full...sending unit is bad.
Is this correct?
Considering BOTH read exactly 1/8 low when the tanks are crammed full, I just assumed it's in the dash.
Can someone explain to me how the sending units of a dual tank differ from the sending unit in the in cab tank?
With my problem, the first issue was that it didn't read the fuel level at all. I opened up the sending unit and removed varnished fuel from the fine coil windings and the copper contact.
Once that was cleaned, it would only read 3/4 full when topped off. When I moved the float to the full position, the copper contact didn't reach the end of the copper windings. With the float in the full position, I gently bent the contact so that it reached the end of the windings. Now with full swing of the float it reads from F to E.
I'm not certain what the ohms rating is on the truck fuel senders but, I suspect it's the same as the early Mustangs.
The early Mustang fuel senders are 10 ohms to 75 ohms. --10 ohms full, 75 ohms when empty.
FYI
The sending unit on my 67 read;
Full = 6.4 ohms
Empty = 70 ohms