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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Clutch problem

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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 01:04 PM
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Clutch problem

Hello all, I'm a new guy here, been lurking for awhile and only have a few posts.

I have a 65 F250 Camper Special, 352 w/4 speed. I rescued the truck from my neighbor's great grandfather's farm. It sat in a field for the last 13 years. I'm going through the major systems now one at a time, but I have one I haven't tackled yet that is bugging me to figure out.

Keep in mind, the truck was driven into the field and parked. It had a leak in the fuel tank and had blown a brake line. They just bought a newer truck, the only reason they parked it. Sort of a fix it when they get time deal. Never got time... It was on the road the day it was parked.

The problem is, when you push the pedal to the floor, it stays there. It has the return spring on the pedal mount, but doesn't come back up. It appears as though nothing is missing from the linkage. I'm not real familiar with mechanical clutch systems as I've only had one or two and never had to maintain them.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rk-rex
I have a 65 F250 Camper Special, 352 w/4 speed.

The problem is, when you push the clutch pedal to the floor, it stays there.

It has the return spring on the pedal mount, but doesn't come back up. It appears as though nothing is missing from the linkage.

I'm not real familiar with mechanical clutch systems as I've only had one or two and never had to maintain them.
Welcome to FTE

Clutch release rod (7521) routes from the clutch pedal bell crank (7A554) thru the toe board to the equalizer bar (7528).

This rod has 90 degree ends using nylon bushings (7526). The bushings crack apart/disintegrate, the 90 degree ends begin to crack, eventually one or both break off.

When this occurs, the clutch pedal drops to the floor, lays there like a drunken sailor.

Note: The above are basic part numbers only. If this is what you need, I'll type the full part numbers/availability.

Hold Ctrl and + keys to expand pic.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Thanks Bill! I figured it was something fairly simple since nothing major was missing or broken that I could see. I actually purchased the parts catalog because of your very informative posts that almost always include pictures.

When I get to the clutch I will go though and replace all of the bushings as well as any other worn parts and see what happens.

I will post some pictures when I get to the post limit and am able to.

Thanks again!

Rikk
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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Well, I finally got everything I needed, the previous owner put in a clutch fork from who knows where, as well as a pivot that was made from a piece of angle iron. Results... Broken springs on the throw out bearing as well as complete deformation of the fork retaining spring. So, I get everything back to original only to find out that because the cab mounts are shot, fronts gone and rears flat and cracked. This is allowing for too little travel in the clutch rod and it still doesn't work... But it's all new and ready for cab mounts.

The question I have is, the spring that goes from the fork to ???. The previous owner had a short spring and a piece of dog chain going up to a hole the front crossmember.

I am having a hard time finding out what spring is supposed to go there and where it mounts. It seems like most of the restoration parts catalogs have varying year ranges and part numbers. (I'm finding this with a lot of parts for the 65...) Short of ordering them all, I'm lost.

So how long should the spring be for reference and where the devil does it attach to opposite of the clutch fork.

I have my new cab mounts to weld in and need to find the rubber mounts, but that's another thread...
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:58 AM
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pic below: 7562 clutch fork anti-rattle 'spring' fits on clutch fork (7515), then attaches over 'ears' of clutch fork trunnion (7522) attached to bell housing.

The spring is installed on the fork first, then it's a real b!tch to get the spring to fit over the ears of the trunnion, so some people didn't bother with it.

Trunnion (B9AZ-7522-A) riveted on originally, service part replacement came with the rivets, but most Ford techs used bolts/nuts instead.

C6AZ-7562-A (replaced AB-7562-A) .. Clutch Fork Anti-Rattle Spring / Reproduced

1961/72 Econoline I-6 // 1965/72 F100/350 I-6 & V8 // 1952/68 Ford/Merc Passenger Cars // 1955/60 Thunderbird // 1966/74 Bronco.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 12:03 PM
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I found the anti rattle spring somewhat close to me at a dealership. Got it put in along with the new pivot. Used bolts like you said.

I can't figure out where the end of the 7523 spring is supposed to attach. I see long and short ones in the books, but I can't see where I would attach a short one. There is a hole as shown in the clutch fork, but where does the other end go?

As always, thank you Bill.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rk-rex
I can't figure out where the end of the 7523 spring is supposed to attach. I see long and short ones in the books, but I can't see where I would attach a short one.

There is a hole as shown in the clutch fork, but where does the other end go?
Hole in the frame rail.
1965/66 pic doesn't show where the spring from fork attaches.

Look at this 1967/68 pic, you'll see that there's a hole in the frame rail ahead of the outer equalizer bar pivot (7507) where the end of the spring (7523) from the fork (7515) attaches.

I owned a '65 F100 352 3 speed Warner T-85N O/D for 44 years (3/1965-11/2009), so I knew immediately what the answer to your question was.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 01:10 PM
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That looks promising. I'll have a look at the frame rail when I get home.

I appreciate the help Bill.
 
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