No Brakes

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Feb 13, 2015 | 01:32 PM

ron65

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Joined: Apr 2005

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From: Florida

No Brakes

It's been ten years since I did the brakes on here and I have been checking them and they have been fine , So I decided it was time to do the brakes wether they needed it or not, So I crawled under the front and the pads were fine but I could not loosen the Bleeders so I decided To Replace The Calipers, Pads, Hose, and Rotors ended up needing replaced. The Truck would Drive fine until it got to normal operating temperature then then brakes would lock up and stay on and the the rotors wore down before I figured this out. , New Bearings, Seals and Proportioning Valve. Replaced the Rear Drums, Shoes, Wheel Cylinders, Self Adjusting Kit, All the hardware and Springs. I bled the Brakes Over and Over until there was No Air Then I Bled The Brakes Some More and I Still Can Not Get A Good Brake Pedal. I forgot To mention , I Replaced The Power Booster Again When I thought That It Might Be Bad Before Installing the Proportioning Valve Because I was in a parking lot on a slant with the brakes locked one time happen to unplug the vacuum line and the Truck started to Roll, So I Replaced the Power booster not Realizing it was the Bolts holding the Hoses to the Calipers positioned in the wrong place when I installed the Calipers. Once I Figured The Bolt Problem Out the Brakes have not Locked up Since, But Since I installed The newer Power Booster My Brake Pedal Does Not Get Hard Like It Did not Matter How much I Bleed The Brakes. Could It be The Power Booster? Would It Be The Power Booster ? How Can I tell Without Replacing It Again?

Any Ideas ? Suggestion ?

Thanks

Feb 13, 2015 | 06:59 PM

fuzzybob

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Joined: Sep 2013

Posts: 329

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From: Deer park, Wa.

Ron, In the thread below they talk about the bleed pin on the proportioning valve. If you do search for bleeding brakes you'll get a whole evening of reading. Good luck!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-valve.html

Feb 13, 2015 | 07:33 PM

JohnnyRanger

New User

Joined: Feb 2015

Posts: 20

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From: Spanaway, WA

Ron, have you checked to see if you have engine vacuum at the booster? Check for vacuum at both sides of the check valve ( check valve mounted on booster)
Also, it has been my experience that even new or re-manufactured parts can be defective..
You might find this video helpful.

Feb 13, 2015 | 11:05 PM

ron65

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From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzybob

**** , I might as well put my Old Proportioning valve back in I dont think there wa anything wrong with it. I only replaced it because I was replacing everything Else.

But then I guess I would have to Bleed the old Right ?

Thanks

Feb 13, 2015 | 11:08 PM

ron65

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From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyRanger

I know I have Vacuum going to the check valve I never pulled the check valve out because it didn't want to come out easily so I guess I will try that tomorrow.

Thanks

Last edited by ron65; Feb 15, 2015 at 01:48 PM. Reason: I checked for Vacuum

Feb 14, 2015 | 11:28 AM

NumberDummy

Ford Parts Specialist

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 88,826

Likes: 784

From: Simi Valley, CA

1973/79 F100/350:

TWENTY TWO different brake pedals - NINETEEN different master cylinders - SEVENTEEN different power brake boosters - SEVEN different clutch pedals...I kid you not!

If you replace the P/B booster, it must match the brake pedal!

Feb 14, 2015 | 03:20 PM

bunchoftrucks

Senior User

Joined: Nov 2011

Posts: 261

Likes: 1

From: Colorado Springs

Check the bolt that goes through the pedal, some are eccentric. With just a little rotation the pedal can feel very different. I mark the "widest" part of the bolt shoulder on the bolt head, that way when I put it back together I can dial in the pedal feel.

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Feb 15, 2015 | 06:03 PM

ron65

Thread Starter

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Joined: Apr 2005

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From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by NumberDummy

Thank you NumberDummby,

Both power brake boosters were an exact match and lined up perfect with the Brake Pedal and I had No Problem Bolting them up to the Brake Pedal. I did however Drive around the Whole time I had the First Brake Booster in with the Bolt in Backwards at the Brake Pedal and Didn't know it until I went to change it to the newer Power Brake Booster. So I know what you mean

Feb 15, 2015 | 06:26 PM

#10

F-250 WARHORSE

Cargo Master

Joined: Nov 2009

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From: starship enterprise

Feb 15, 2015 | 06:39 PM

#11

ron65

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Joined: Apr 2005

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From: Florida

I Installed Summit Racing Part Number: CLP-PV-2

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...Fcnm7AodwisA2A

The pin needs to be pushed in and there is no way to attach puller to the bolt, So unless they sell a Bleeder, Which I can't find, I thought I seen One on here, I am better off putting my Old one back one and Starting the whole process over and bleeding The Whole thing again.

Feb 16, 2015 | 08:22 AM

#12

ron65

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From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-250 WARHORSE

I did no do anything behind the master cylinder , It came already attached to the power booster I assumed ( I know never Assume) it was were it needs to be. Since I replaced the dang proportioning Valve I need to figure out how I am going to hold that stupid pin in on the proportioning valve right now, To Bleed the front Brakes. But that is something else I can think about,

Thanks

Feb 23, 2015 | 04:39 PM

#13

ron65

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From: Florida

Ok ,
So I went around and Bleed all the Brakes again and I did not have any trouble getting Fluid to Flow Through the Front lines and I am sure I have all the Air out so I would have to agree with WARHORSE "
Originally Posted by F-250 WARHORSE

Have you checked the length of the rod behind the master cylinder? It threads in or out to adjust the pedal free play or something. If you have that too long, brakes drag, if too short, pedal on floor = no brakes. Good luck."

THAT IS GOING TO BE MY NEXT TASK

Because Right Now I have Some Brakes They Are Just Right At The Floor.

Thanks WARHORSE, I will let you know If that works

Apr 3, 2015 | 11:34 AM

#14

ron65

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From: Florida

Finished Brakes

I was finally able to adjust the rod behind the master cylinder. That seems to be all I needed to finish a Complete Brake Job. Now everything has been replaced and everything seems to be working right. Thanks F-250 WARHORSE I may go back in and adjust the rod back off some. I might have gone too far. But changing the length of the rod was the right thing to do. And thanks to everyone for all your help.

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