Front hub question
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, GA
Front hub question
Started hearing a squeak from drivers front wheel area when turning right, thought maybe pads might need replacing but they were fine as were the pins. So I checked for play with tire off ground and there was def some play pulling from top to bottom, so that lead me to the front hub, I read some posts about pulling the abs sensor and getting some grease in the the hub bearing so I did that but when I replaced the sensor and spun the hub it was scrubbing on the bearing.? So I shimmed the sensor with a washer but now the abs light comes on but there doesn't seem to be a squeak when turning right anymore. Anyone else done this and had the sensor scrub?
And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon, just wanted to get some feed back from some pros, any help would be greatly appreciated.
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon, just wanted to get some feed back from some pros, any help would be greatly appreciated.
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 30,586
Likes: 1,234
From: N. IL
Started hearing a squeak from drivers front wheel area when turning right, thought maybe pads might need replacing but they were fine as were the pins.
1. So I checked for play with tire off ground and there was def some play pulling from top to bottom,
2. so that lead me to the front hub, I read some posts about pulling the abs sensor and getting some grease in the the hub bearing
3. so I did that but when I replaced the sensor and spun the hub it was scrubbing on the bearing.?
4. So I shimmed the sensor with a washer but now the abs light comes on but there doesn't seem to be a squeak when turning right anymore.
5. Anyone else done this and had the sensor scrub?
6. And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon, just wanted to get some feed back from some pros, any help would be greatly appreciated.
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
1. So I checked for play with tire off ground and there was def some play pulling from top to bottom,
2. so that lead me to the front hub, I read some posts about pulling the abs sensor and getting some grease in the the hub bearing
3. so I did that but when I replaced the sensor and spun the hub it was scrubbing on the bearing.?
4. So I shimmed the sensor with a washer but now the abs light comes on but there doesn't seem to be a squeak when turning right anymore.
5. Anyone else done this and had the sensor scrub?
6. And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon, just wanted to get some feed back from some pros, any help would be greatly appreciated.
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
Let's start back on step 1. You looked at the brake pads visually, then looked at the pins, right? Did you happen to remove the pins to make sure they moved smoothly?
Now, still on step 1, how do you know that wiggle was the unit bearing and not ball joints?
Not trying to be a smart a$&, but trying to go step by step to get to the root cause.
2. If the unit bearing is worn, grease won't make it new again.
3. What was scrubbing on the bearing? The dust shield or the ABS sensor?
4. Add a washer to make the sensor further away from the tone ring? And that stops the scrub? Remove the washer and I bet the ABS light goes off.
5. No
6. Check the tie rods and the ball joints (upper/lower) with a crow bar, look for any movement. Compare to the other side. If it ends up being the unit bearing (sounds that way to me, but double check), buy 2 and do both sides. Squirt High quality grease into both new ones for a long life.
Read the how-to with photos before replacing and take your time.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, GA
Hey Brooks- Wow, that's quite a tale. I added some numbers 'cause - dang your writing style is tough to follow.
Sorry sorry, I was typing while getting dinner ready, don't multitask too well lol
Let's start back on step 1. You looked at the brake pads visually, then looked at the pins, right? Did you happen to remove the pins to make sure they moved smoothly?
Yes, pads had plenty of meat and pins glide like silk.
Now, still on step 1, how do you know that wiggle was the unit bearing and not ball joints?
Ok I don't know for sure but after I removed rotor I could wiggle the the hub, seemed to be a generous amount of play, I will have to look more closely at ball joints tomorrow night.
Not trying to be a smart a$&, but trying to go step by step to get to the root cause.
Understood and I don't think you are being smart a$$ at all, I appreciate the feedback!
2. If the unit bearing is worn, grease won't make it new again.
True, thought maybe buy me some time, very little time lol
3. What was scrubbing on the bearing? The dust shield or the ABS sensor?
Dust shield did not appear to be scrubbing, the abs sensor when reinstalled was making contact with bearing, could feel and hear when rotating hub.
4. Add a washer to make the sensor further away from the tone ring? And that stops the scrub? Remove the washer and I bet the ABS light goes off.
Yes, to keep it from making contact
That's what I was thinking but did not want to leave the abs sensor contacting the bearing.
5. No
Roger that,
6. Check the tie rods and the ball joints (upper/lower) with a crow bar, look for any movement. Compare to the other side. If it ends up being the unit bearing (sounds that way to me, but double check), buy 2 and do both sides. Squirt High quality grease into both new ones for a long life.
I will do the ball joint test tomorrow night and post my findings, and yes I think unit bearing also, just wanted to get another opinion before ordering bearings.
Read the how-to with photos before replacing and take your time.
Sorry sorry, I was typing while getting dinner ready, don't multitask too well lol
Let's start back on step 1. You looked at the brake pads visually, then looked at the pins, right? Did you happen to remove the pins to make sure they moved smoothly?
Yes, pads had plenty of meat and pins glide like silk.
Now, still on step 1, how do you know that wiggle was the unit bearing and not ball joints?
Ok I don't know for sure but after I removed rotor I could wiggle the the hub, seemed to be a generous amount of play, I will have to look more closely at ball joints tomorrow night.
Not trying to be a smart a$&, but trying to go step by step to get to the root cause.
Understood and I don't think you are being smart a$$ at all, I appreciate the feedback!
2. If the unit bearing is worn, grease won't make it new again.
True, thought maybe buy me some time, very little time lol
3. What was scrubbing on the bearing? The dust shield or the ABS sensor?
Dust shield did not appear to be scrubbing, the abs sensor when reinstalled was making contact with bearing, could feel and hear when rotating hub.
4. Add a washer to make the sensor further away from the tone ring? And that stops the scrub? Remove the washer and I bet the ABS light goes off.
Yes, to keep it from making contact
That's what I was thinking but did not want to leave the abs sensor contacting the bearing.
5. No
Roger that,
6. Check the tie rods and the ball joints (upper/lower) with a crow bar, look for any movement. Compare to the other side. If it ends up being the unit bearing (sounds that way to me, but double check), buy 2 and do both sides. Squirt High quality grease into both new ones for a long life.
I will do the ball joint test tomorrow night and post my findings, and yes I think unit bearing also, just wanted to get another opinion before ordering bearings.
Read the how-to with photos before replacing and take your time.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 30,586
Likes: 1,234
From: N. IL
Got it. Back to the ABS, the only thing I can think is the sensor didn't go back in correctly. But it only goes in one way, so not sure how a fixed depth sensor can go deeper into the hole than before?
How many pumps could you squeeze in before oozing out the bearing seams?
How many pumps could you squeeze in before oozing out the bearing seams?
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,049
Likes: 1,546
From: Media PA
Yep, should help those sealed unit bearing to live a long and happy life!
This thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-hub-zerk.html explains the procedure and has the contact info for Snowseeker who has made several of these special fitting for us here. Clay over at Riff Raff Diesel also sells a fitting for this. Each of my hubs took about 22 pumps of Mobil 1 red synth grease till I saw it ooze at the seams.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 1
From: Central Tx.
Thanks. I'd found & read the info on the grease job a while back & think it's great. I just did not know this was being done when NEW. Sure will be a lot easier when they are on the bench
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Waco, Texas
I can't remember the thread but I thought I read that you shouldn't grease them when new but do it yearly after install. Also, that putting that much grease in was bad, that you only wanted to do 2 to 3 pumps. Something about too much pressure on the bearings. I'm at work now but will search for the thread reference tonight. I just installed new hubs and didn't grease them internally due to what I read.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I can't remember the thread but I thought I read that you shouldn't grease them when new but do it yearly after install. Also, that putting that much grease in was bad, that you only wanted to do 2 to 3 pumps. Something about too much pressure on the bearings. I'm at work now but will search for the thread reference tonight. I just installed new hubs and didn't grease them internally due to what I read.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
Looks like hub lube is something I will be adding to my scheduled MX. The only drawback to too much grease would be expansion when heated which would push the grease past a seal. If it puked at a seam when cold filling it, it must have a place to relieve this pressure.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 30,586
Likes: 1,234
From: N. IL
That makes sense 05Mil, but we've been collectively doing this for years with no ill effects documented. I've cleaned grease off the inside of my rims as it oozes and gets sling'd. A natural relief valve. Got 170K out of them.
My other thought is with not enough grease inserted it's not gonna reach the bearing surface...
I wish someone would cut open a used one open and take some pics.
Got 170K out of them.My other thought is with not enough grease inserted it's not gonna reach the bearing surface...
I wish someone would cut open a used one open and take some pics.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
I'm not saying it's a bad thing. Just saying that you can't overgrease one if it has a place to seep out. If it were truly a sealed unit it might be bad, but it clearly isnt. I plan to fill mine up!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I agree, and there are no seals in it. I filled mine until it oozed out the cracks and I will admit there was a few specs of grease that temporarily showed up on my wheels but I doubt if I will ever have a problem with them as long as I own it and they have already gone 175k miles. (The speckling was very temporary)
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
That makes sense 05Mil, but we've been collectively doing this for years with no ill effects documented. I've cleaned grease off the inside of my rims as it oozes and gets sling'd. A natural relief valve. Got 170K out of them.
My other thought is with not enough grease inserted it's not gonna reach the bearing surface...
I wish someone would cut open a used one open and take some pics.
Got 170K out of them.My other thought is with not enough grease inserted it's not gonna reach the bearing surface...
I wish someone would cut open a used one open and take some pics.
HERE;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12409863
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, GA
Update
I replaced drivers side wheel hub as it was shot out, took my time and the replacement went without a hitch except after test drive I am still getting a squeak from that wheel when going around corner to the right.
Any suggestions as what might be causing this? Not the dust shield and no noise when free spinning on a jack, so I'm at a loss!
Any suggestions as what might be causing this? Not the dust shield and no noise when free spinning on a jack, so I'm at a loss!