Clutch master/ slave
Thread Starter
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is a BAAAD MAN
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,738
Likes: 5
From: Winston Salem NC
Clutch master/ slave
My clutch pedal is going to the floor before disengaging, has 200k. Changed the clutch about a year ago so it should be good. So I was thinking about buying a new master/slave prebled unit but all I can find is the Dorman. Anyone know if Ford makes one? Anyone have luck with Dorman? One thing i've learned is stock is better on the old girl.
I couldn't find directions anywhere doesn't look too hard but though i'd read up on it before it gets here haha.
I couldn't find directions anywhere doesn't look too hard but though i'd read up on it before it gets here haha.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,206
Likes: 3
From: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
I would go with ford, did you try to bleed the slave? I know there a pain in the ***. But if the top 3/4 of the pedal is soft, you have air in your system. Do a bleed before pulling every thing apart.
Thread Starter
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is a BAAAD MAN
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,738
Likes: 5
From: Winston Salem NC
Would I need to bleed if I buy the prebled unit? How do you bleed it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I buy the pre-bled units from Rock Auto. When my factory one failed I went with a pre-bled set up from the Ford house. It was on the pricey side and failed in less than a year. I've had better luck with the aftermarket ones. (although the factory one did last a long time).
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Thread Starter
|
is a BAAAD MAN
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,738
Likes: 5
From: Winston Salem NC
I buy the pre-bled units from Rock Auto. When my factory one failed I went with a pre-bled set up from the Ford house. It was on the pricey side and failed in less than a year. I've had better luck with the aftermarket ones. (although the factory one did last a long time).
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Thanks
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