I just finished replacing the sway bar bushings with the energy suspension kit, and noticed the Ibeam bushing is also shot, just want to make sure I am ordering the right parts.
Here is a pic


Is this what I need?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/en...-250-econoline

 

No, what you have in your picture is the "Radius Arm Bushings"

The "kit" would look like this -



That is the Moog kit from Rockauto for $17.34

The kit you have posted from Summit is for a "pair" and with the twin-I-Beams, there is only one center Axle Pivot Bushing.

Like this -

 

Thank you.

 

I am looking at summit racing, and they have the moog @$17.97, and auto extra brand @ $8.97

Is there a huge difference between the two?

I would be installing this on two vans, so the savings would be nice.

 

I've have both the axle pivot and radius arm bushings replaced with Energy Suspension parts. Those same parts from Moog or OEM or any other supplier that specifically state they're urethane mostly likely are of a similar "soft" material that won't have the same life as urethane parts.

Before installing Hellwig front and rear sway bars Energy Suspension I-Beam bushings were also fitted as those tend to be almost gone at about 80K miles.

 

Yes, one word, .......Moog.......

The choice is your's, The time it takes to replace these bushings is the same, the results maybe equal, the reliability and longevity would be the quality of the product. Moog's "improved designs" Or "thermoplastics" are a better choice.

Rock also list "standard designs" for $5.04 and up, again, you get what you pay for

 

If you're looking to go cheap and try doing so by using crappy parts you'll soon enough realize it was a waste of time and money. Installing good quality parts for literally a few dollars more gives longer life. If doing the same job more than once over the life time of a vehicle is okay with you find and use the cheapest stuff that'll fit.

Having already gone through cheap OEM and similar parts that were replaced with better parts I won't have to do this over anytime in the next 100K miles.

My time and reliability/dependability of my van is much much more important that literally a few dollars.

Choice is your's thank goodness.

 

Well I have found different results .
Moog "problem solver" steering linkage has cost me many hours of grief. replaced same draglink in an F350 dually pickup 3 times in 3 months same BS , must be a bad batch. family vehicle so my free labour but alignment done each time at extra cost. eventually got a refund and went with another brand and its gone 4 yrs now on the same drag link, even changed owners and new owner is a friend of mine.




just because it has a premium price does not mean it is premium quality. they are all made offshore now and often in the same manufacturing facility.


also have a Napa premium starter that is only 2 months old that is already causing problems on the wife's explorer.


you get what you pay for doesn't always come true. we can wish it...........

 

I was speaking specifically of urethane bushings as opposed to the lower durometer offerings from any manufacturer, those claiming to be OEM replacements.

No a higher price doesn't always equal better quality however in an instance where reputation for initial quality and longevity are most important statistically a bigger brand name would be the better option.

The better or more well known brands tend to have generous replacement terms and periods of time---occasionally the vendor can/does things long before the manufacturer can react---Amazon comes immediately to mind. I thought I had a problem with a Moog Lt Side inner tie rod end, they immediately sent a new one. When it was discovered there was no problem with the existing part after returning it to Amazon there was no charge for their prompt action even though it was my haste they were addressing.

For those who enjoy the safety net of extended warranties NAPA or other premium suppliers have alternators, starters etc etc with lifetime full replacement. Every reman'd or new part has a very small chance of failing soon after installation if not DOA. Such failures can and o happen with many parts regardless their cost.

I'll continue spending my money on that I feel will give me the best life and performance.

 

I just receiver the $8 kit and it is "thermoplastic".

To install, Can I just unbolt the frame bracket with the three screws?

Thanks

 

Well there is a little bit more to it, than that..you will find that Installing the Torsion Bar in the New ' holes " a little bit of a challenge.........I you are really going to replace the Radius arm bushings I would do the Ball Joints / Tie rod ends as well... Which means you need to separate the spindle from each I beam and have a decent Ball joint tool with the Funky Socket ...and go to town.......THEN when it is reassembled , get it Professionally Aligned for Camber and everything else.......It will save you thousands on rubber.....

 

Thanks, I will take a look at the rest of those bushings.

 

They are not Bushings ..they are Upper and Lower Ball Joints.....AND Tie Rod Ends....SO that means 3 parts per side ....Then you have the Intermediate Shaft which is another story altogether...
Jack Up the whole front end......Then grab specific tire at 12 and 6 and see if it moves ...that is the Ball Joints....Now take a Bar and try to pry it sideways....that is the Tie rod ends....Note this is a very General description...and always refer to the Factory Service Manual for your Vehicle .....Good Luck .

 

Thanks, I will check them out.

 

just unbolt the bracket and change those radius arm bushings if that is whats wrong, don't tear into the steering and balljoints unless you have to.


don't do any more work than necessary. If you have money to throw away go for it.


have to do radius arm bushings on the wifes 94 explorer its basically the same job eventhough its TTB 4wd.


good luck in your suspension work, its a pretty simple job no alignment required after the bushings are done.