'74 CREW CAB
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 14
EVERYTHING! Drive it, look for leaks, runs drives, cab supports rotted. One thing i almost always do first,when its sitting idle hold the brake and shift "R" to "D" a few times and see how quick it goes into gear and how firm (if automatic). Make sure the 4x4 works in H and L, just use your best judgment. GOOD LUCK. 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good?
Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if THE choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good?
Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if THE choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Bring this tread to the crew cab section. Advice from people who have more to give you and have a crew cab. Defiantly the rear doors. Make sure they are solid. No rot! Rear doors are hard to come by. And drip rails also...
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
As far as crews go. Make sure the back doors are in good condition. Panels are sturdy, windows work well, no leaking, locks work. Same as the front doors but remember that the rear panels are hard to find, can't just walk into any jy and find a set. Make sure back seat is in acceptable condition, another hard to replace item. I think crews are more susceptible to rust because the inside of the roof and the inside of the b post are not painted, meaning that they rust faster. At least it's that way on mine. Eta: I would make a list of stuff for you to look at. So you don't get caught up in the moment and forget something. Don't get in a hurry, if the owner doesn't want to wait for you to make sure the truck is worth you spending your money on it, he could be hiding something
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Tigard
other than what everyone else pointed out, If it has one of those rubberized floor matting in it and you are able to look under it i would.. water sits underneath there and rusts out typically the floor boards. i didnt check this when i bought my 74 and was in for a surprise.. if you cant pull it up to look because its mounted down to the floor atleast get under the truck and look where the floor boards are for rust all the way through. a solid short bed is always nice since they are hard to find. check the frame even. the guy before me swapped a 460 into it and the exhaust manifold wouldnt fit between the frame so he hacked the top of it out. 460 swaps are common but this guy was an idiot. just things to look for!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Tigard
As far as crews go. Make sure the back doors are in good condition. Panels are sturdy, windows work well, no leaking, locks work. Same as the front doors but remember that the rear panels are hard to find, can't just walk into any jy and find a set. Make sure back seat is in acceptable condition, another hard to replace item. I think crews are more susceptible to rust because the inside of the roof and the inside of the b post are not painted, meaning that they rust faster. At least it's that way on mine. Eta: I would make a list of stuff for you to look at. So you don't get caught up in the moment and forget something. Don't get in a hurry, if the owner doesn't want to wait for you to make sure the truck is worth you spending your money on it, he could be hiding something
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 7
From: Shelton, Wa
Seats are the same as the front aside from the non sliding rails they mount on so no worries about the seat itself.
Gutter rot is bad.
Parts NOT reproduced: Rear section of the headliner, rear doors, rear door panels, roof panel, rear floor and the frame, bedsides for a Short bed.
Do not get the impression that the Crew Cabs are near as rare as a seller will lead on, wether you are willing to leave your area to get one is a different story.
If it's a 4x4 and a Long Box then check the frame as Ford did not make that configuration in a crew cab, it would either be stretched or a 4x4 swap.
Good luck.
Gutter rot is bad.
Parts NOT reproduced: Rear section of the headliner, rear doors, rear door panels, roof panel, rear floor and the frame, bedsides for a Short bed.
Do not get the impression that the Crew Cabs are near as rare as a seller will lead on, wether you are willing to leave your area to get one is a different story.
If it's a 4x4 and a Long Box then check the frame as Ford did not make that configuration in a crew cab, it would either be stretched or a 4x4 swap.
Good luck.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,148
Likes: 5,783
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
See if it is a real CC 4x4 or a put together deal, lengthened frame, older frame with newer body? CC='s roof rust, drip rail rust, A and B, C pillar rust big time.
Front cab mounts rust, old Garrison or Bendix ram assist steering set up or swapped to a 78/79 style? Drum brakes, low pinion front axle....
Read up on the old HB here, lots of similarities I believe. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post1437578
Front cab mounts rust, old Garrison or Bendix ram assist steering set up or swapped to a 78/79 style? Drum brakes, low pinion front axle....
Read up on the old HB here, lots of similarities I believe. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post1437578
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Tigard
EJ AZ,
youll find one. glad you didnt take on something with more rust than you wanted. the first one ever looked had alot more rust than i was willing to deal with but i wanted to buy it thinking i might never find one that was solid and within my budget. it took me more than a year of constant searching before i found mine. Patience it key! good luck and i will be looking forward to seein you with a crew in the near future!
youll find one. glad you didnt take on something with more rust than you wanted. the first one ever looked had alot more rust than i was willing to deal with but i wanted to buy it thinking i might never find one that was solid and within my budget. it took me more than a year of constant searching before i found mine. Patience it key! good luck and i will be looking forward to seein you with a crew in the near future!
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Jayson Bonino
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 29, 2003 08:27 PM