If you are going to go through the trouble to order a spare cap, order a new WIF sensor and the drain plug. Makes swapping out filters so much more convenient. Especially if on the road.

I keep my spare filters in empty 3 pound plastic coffee cans. A place to store both new and used filters while on the road.

 

I got the D version and it has an extra hole in it. Besides the drain plug hole, there is another threaded port, about same size, a little higher up on the bowl. Not sure what it is for but I will have to find a plug to use the housing. Any '15 model guys seen this extra port? I suppose you could put a gauge there but I wouldn't want it hanging there to break off if it hit something.

Edit: I see from the post below that the other port is for the water in fuel sensor. Should have looked before posting.

 

I have replied to this problem on other forums so here I go again. I apologize if this is a repeat for anyone or a similar post has already been made.

Above and beyond the fact that the plastic fuel filter bowl is a little fragile, there are several things you need to understand and consider when servicing your 6.7L primary fuel filter on your Super Duty truck. This is my advice to prevent breaking the cap but also preventing air from getting into the fuel system during operation causing noise and possible drivability concerns. I have seen this happen to people more than once.

1. Using a socket on the bowl is fine however you want to be sure that the wrench/ratchet handle is positioned at 90 degrees> I know that a lot of guys use ratchets and breaker bars with ratcheting handles. If the handle is not at a 90 degree angle you are applying additional stress to the plastic bowl in addition to the torque you are applying. This is typically when the center cracks and breaks off.
   
2. Clean the bowl/cap and remove the water drain valve to wipe it clean as well. There should be a blue o-ring at the base and ensure that the thicker, smaller diameter rubber seal at the tip is not stuck in the cap. If so, carefully pick it out and put it back on the valve. Coat the valve with clean engine oil and screw it back into the cap seating it fully, turn it back out and back in to close the valve.
   
3. The large green o-ring that seals the bowl to the DCFM housing can be stiff as well as dry causing it to stick to the plastic making removal AND installation difficult. Always install the new green o-ring that is supplied with the filter kit. Before doing so, liberally apply CLEAN ENGINE OIL to the o-ring and then install it on the housing. Apply more clean engine oil to the bowl lip where the o-ring seals against, snap the filter into the bowl and screw it in. With your wrench handle once again positioned at a 90 degree angle, rotate the cap SLOWLY as it will only go 3 or 4 turns and then seat against a plastic stop that can and WILL break if you install the cap too quickly and with excessive force.

Additional Tid-Bits of information:

After replacing the secondary filter on the engine remember to cycle the ignition on for 30 seconds without starting the engine, 4 times minimum to fill and prime the fuel filters and purge the air. Otherwise the engine will stall shortly after starting it requiring excessive cranking to purge the air from the high pressure fuel system.

So, the reason I recommend using clean engine oil on the rubber seals is that the use of diesel fuel or grease is that it tends to work better. I have removed countless filter caps of all types and noted that ones with evidence of grease tend to bind along with ones that look "dry." Lubricating these seals will allow the cap and the valve to move freely making them not only turn easier but it prevents the rubber from sticking and binding on housings and caps. This binding can cause the seals to stretch and allow air to be sucked in while the pump is operating. Remember that the filter, cap and drain valve on all frame mounted primary fuel filters on Ford Power Stroke trucks are on the suction side of the fuel pump.

One more important piece of advice. When you remove your fuel filter, LOOK AT IT AND THE INSIDE OF THE CAP! If the filter element is really dark and appears to be collapsed, taking on an "hour glass shape," you need to service your fuel filters at lower mileage intervals. Also, if you are changing filters on a Super Duty with 40 gallon aft-axle steel fuel tanks inspect for evidence of rust that will look like coffee grinds and may contain small gray/silvery bits indicating that the fuel tank has rusted internally and or delaminated. This condition MUST BE CORREECTED IMMEDIATELY.

Lastly, fine and shiny bits of metal found in the filter housing has been reported by some technicians related to certain fuel system failures. If you discover this you should retain a sample and report your findings to your favorite Ford dealership service department.

Hope someone finds this advice helpful.

 

I just did mine last weekend. My plan was to wait until the message popped up but I have not seen it yet. My first filter change was at ~24K. The manual says the message should show up near 22K but may be adjusted by driving conditions. I always regarded the 22K as the maximum interval and the computer would lessen the interval as a function of engine data. I got exceeded my comfort zone and just changed the filters. Upon removal, I inspected the filters and they looked ok. I did get the "Low Fuel Pressure" warning on a few cold mornings which cleared as the fuel in the system heated up. I figured it was better to change them sooner than later.

 

That filter is on the dirtier side... looks like it is just starting to pull in in the middle. I would drop my intervals down to 15K and see what it looks like then. I like the idea of the filter minder but sometimes you just need to adjust for best performance and reliability. The fact that Ford finally put a low fuel pressure switch in the system is nice. Long over due, but nice.

 

Thanks, I will. I like your idea of using engine oil to lube the o-rings. I was always in the habit of using the fluid being pumped for this(diesel in this case) but oil would do a better job. I have been using B5 almost exclusively because of what I have read about fuel lubricity. That may explain the dirty filter.

 

So they can immediately void the warranty. Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

Yeeeeeah. Now I remember why I stopped coming on these forums. Absolutely pointless comment bringing nothing to the discussion or the community.

I thought vBulletin software had an ignore user feature? Found it!

 

Sorry "Doctor" didn't know you were so sensitive.

 

Hi Steve.........
I go to RockAuto.com

Use a strap wrench to help unloosen it....less stress on the stupid plastic nut.....when reinstalling, I put grease on the threads.

 

You don't need to call Seabee Doug.....sir.......He is a sailor........

 

A very timely thread for me. I had an appointment set for tomorrow for an oil and various filters change but had to cancel for other reasons. When I called to cancel I asked the cost of the fuel filter change out (both) and was quoted over $100 just for the filters plus an hour ($110/hr!!!) labor. It looks like I'm finally going to do some maintenance on this truck myself instead of paying the stealership rates. Oil, air and fuel filters from AMAZON this time are less then Rock Auto by a few bucks which surprised me (~$90 with NY tax added on) I also ordered a new $20 bottom cap JIC. Looks like I have the 'easy' engine bay filter with the 7mm screw head as my truck is an early '11 (I bought used with a 'free' oil change and why I haven't done this myself yet). Off to Wally World for some oil and maybe by the end of the week will get down and filthy from dripping winter slop (oh yeah, we have plenty of that in the Great Northeast)

The You Tube video is very good and shows that the filters are an easy change out on an '11

 

It's very easy Dave. When you get good at it it literally takes 5 minutes. I actually did it at a truck stop once. Took less time than it took my co pilot to get 2 subway foot longs...

"Get me a tuna on white, imma change the fuel filters real quick"

 

Ok. Thanks buddy. Being my work truck and towing all day every day I've put over 13,500 miles on this thing in 3 months. I'm about to change the filters at 15,000 because I put so much fuel through this truck.

Haha!!!

 

Roy, here is a pic of the fuel cap I bought last week. It lists for $28 at Ford, but can be gotten for around $17 on here [BC3Z-9G270-C]Ford fuel cap for lower fuel filter for Motorcraft FD-4615-Ford 6.7 liter diesel