7.3 dying while driving
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7.3 dying while driving
I have a 2002 f-250 super duty with 240000 miles on it and this is the first time it's done this, today while I was driving my truck died 5 times on me. The engine cuts off the power steering and brakes of course go out also but the radio and lights and a/c would still be going then after I'd let it sit for 20 or 30 mins it would fire right up and I'd drive a little ways and it'd die again. I replaced the cps today also after the 4th time but I only made it about 4 miles until it died one more time so I just had it towed home.
Any ideas what's wrong?
Any ideas what's wrong?
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,802
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From: Elk Grove, CA
Welcome to FTE! Lots of helpful folks and information here, grab a cold one and put your feet up.
Coupla starter questions: might sound like a funny question, but how is the oil level? Too low and it will shut itself down.
Also the fuel level in the tank. 1/4 tank can indicate the pickup foot has broken and it's sucking air instead of fuel.
Any check engine light? Does it sputter and stumble or just off like a switch?
Coupla starter questions: might sound like a funny question, but how is the oil level? Too low and it will shut itself down.
Also the fuel level in the tank. 1/4 tank can indicate the pickup foot has broken and it's sucking air instead of fuel.
Any check engine light? Does it sputter and stumble or just off like a switch?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 435
Likes: 2
From: Bloomfield, NM
Couple thoughts:
Unplug the icp sensor and see if that helps.
I would also get the oil up to the normal operating range, fire it up and let it run for a while if it starts, and then shut it off and check the oil again. By my way of thinking if it got real low it could maybe have air trapped in the high pressure oil system.
Check the connectors going to the valve cover harnesses and maybe even the 42 pin connector.
I'm not an expert by any means but these are some things I'd check.
Unplug the icp sensor and see if that helps.
I would also get the oil up to the normal operating range, fire it up and let it run for a while if it starts, and then shut it off and check the oil again. By my way of thinking if it got real low it could maybe have air trapped in the high pressure oil system.
Check the connectors going to the valve cover harnesses and maybe even the 42 pin connector.
I'm not an expert by any means but these are some things I'd check.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: carmichael, ca
Sounds like the IPR. More specifically, the coil on the back of the IPR. When it heats up enough, the coil creates an open circuit and can no longer regulate the oil pressure to drive the injectors. The engine dies like someone reached over and turned the ignition off. It'll crank for ever but not start as long as the open still exists. Once it cools down enough, it fires right up like nothing happened. Mine would run between 7-25 miles before it died.
Next time it happens, pour some water on the IPR coil to cool it down. If it fires right back up, that's your suspect. Unfortunately, you'll need to buy the whole IPR. Riffraff has the best deal on them.
You can also check the tin nut on the back of the IPR to make sure it's tight and the coil isn't bouncing around.
Let us know what you find out.
Next time it happens, pour some water on the IPR coil to cool it down. If it fires right back up, that's your suspect. Unfortunately, you'll need to buy the whole IPR. Riffraff has the best deal on them.
You can also check the tin nut on the back of the IPR to make sure it's tight and the coil isn't bouncing around.
Let us know what you find out.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,802
Likes: 1,333
From: Elk Grove, CA
Phinner and Varminthunter have some great points to check out, I'll just type a little more detail on a couple since I have itchy fingers. 
For the ICP sensor you want the connector to be dry. If it is oily the sensor is dying and should be replaced.
The 42 pin connector is the fat harness that goes over the driver side valve cover. The harness can chafe on the cover and exposed wires can short to ground causing all kinds of random mayhem. Unbolt the 42 pin connector halves so you can inspect the harness.
And here's a pic to help orient yourself to the underhood topography. The 42 pin is under the green line that goes into the black intake tube in the upper right corner of the pic.
To cool the ICP I'm more of a Big-Gulp-full-of-ice guy, but use whatever is handy to cool it down.
For the ICP sensor you want the connector to be dry. If it is oily the sensor is dying and should be replaced.
The 42 pin connector is the fat harness that goes over the driver side valve cover. The harness can chafe on the cover and exposed wires can short to ground causing all kinds of random mayhem. Unbolt the 42 pin connector halves so you can inspect the harness.
And here's a pic to help orient yourself to the underhood topography. The 42 pin is under the green line that goes into the black intake tube in the upper right corner of the pic.
To cool the ICP I'm more of a Big-Gulp-full-of-ice guy, but use whatever is handy to cool it down.
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Sounds like the IPR. More specifically, the coil on the back of the IPR. When it heats up enough, the coil creates an open circuit and can no longer regulate the oil pressure to drive the injectors. The engine dies like someone reached over and turned the ignition off. It'll crank for ever but not start as long as the open still exists. Once it cools down enough, it fires right up like nothing happened. Mine would run between 7-25 miles before it died.
Next time it happens, pour some water on the IPR coil to cool it down. If it fires right back up, that's your suspect. Unfortunately, you'll need to buy the whole IPR. Riffraff has the best deal on them.
You can also check the tin nut on the back of the IPR to make sure it's tight and the coil isn't bouncing around.
Let us know what you find out.
Next time it happens, pour some water on the IPR coil to cool it down. If it fires right back up, that's your suspect. Unfortunately, you'll need to buy the whole IPR. Riffraff has the best deal on them.
You can also check the tin nut on the back of the IPR to make sure it's tight and the coil isn't bouncing around.
Let us know what you find out.
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From: carmichael, ca
IPR Injection Pressure Regulator 96-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Got curious and checked around. 5-20 ohms is correct. Here's a Motorcraft diagnostic site.
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...15/V3C5066.HTM
Second step down.
There's plenty of Youtube videos out there that help with the replacement.
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You can do a quickie check on the coil without pulling the IPR. If you take the tin nut off, the coil will slide off the back of the IPR attached to the pigtail. Unplug it and and pull out the multimeter. If I recall, it should ohm out between 5-20 ohms. I think my new one was 11 or 12 (something like that). Anything beyond that and you can drop Clay at Riffraff an order for a new IPR.
IPR Injection Pressure Regulator 96-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Got curious and checked around. 5-20 ohms is correct. Here's a Motorcraft diagnostic site.
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...15/V3C5066.HTM
Second step down.
There's plenty of Youtube videos out there that help with the replacement.
IPR Injection Pressure Regulator 96-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Got curious and checked around. 5-20 ohms is correct. Here's a Motorcraft diagnostic site.
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...15/V3C5066.HTM
Second step down.
There's plenty of Youtube videos out there that help with the replacement.
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