I have a 1974 F250 w/ a Dana 60 rear. I need to replace the Parking brake cables and never took this type of drum off where it involved removing the axles.

I've scanned the Haynes Manual and it says to use a special deep socket to take off the wheel bearing lock nut.

What size and how deep is that socket?
When putting it back together is there any wheel bearing grease involved or just slide the axle back in and check fluids.

Any tips and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
John

 

On my 75 F250 I believe I used a 2 1/2" socket from the parts store like this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w83243

If it were me I'd inspect the wheel cylinders, shoes, and hardware while in there. I'd check the wheel bearings and seals carefully as well.


Here's what mine looked like when I took the drum off so I basically replaced everything except the axle shaft and hub:






And after:

 

the socket size is 2 9/16

 

9thPony- OMG! what a mess I guess you were wondering why it wasn't stopping good enough. Nice job on the rebuild!

 

When putting it back together, how tight do you want to make the nut that holds the bearing in. Is there a torque spec.

Any other advise would be appreciated.

 

From FTE over the years: Dana 60 full floater - Rear wheel bearing adjusting nut - 50 -80 ft lbs, back off 1/4 - 3/8 turn. (Check for play). Lock washer - bend a tab or two over the adjusting nut, or use the same bent ones in the same place.

Wheel bearing locknut - 90 - 110 ft lbs.
Axle shaft retaining bolts - 40 - 50 ft lbs.
Between 65 and 75 ft lbs.. spin... tighten.. repeat.. repeat... repeat... until torqued,, then back off 1/4 turn... put on lock washer.. put on second nut.. torque to spec.. then bend tabs over both nuts.. in either direction.. in at least two places on each nut

2 9/16 thinwall axle nut socket...1/2 inch drive, I bought mine at O'Reilly's out of their catalog.

This one is for those of us with Dana 60/70's. The usual spindle nut set of 3 pieces (a nut, washer with tabs to fold over, and another nut) usually work alright, but there is an easier way to go.

Ford part # E8TZ-1A124-A is all three of those in one. It is a one piece ratcheting style locknut that all you have to do is torque down and go. It takes a 4 prong style spindle nut socket. I have them on my front 60 and rear 70 and they work great. They cost about $15 apiece from my local Ford dealership.

YES repack you wheel bearing's....might go ahead and replace them, insp you inner and outer bearing races very well, and replace the seals.

John have you ever went here? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html

 

77&79F250- Thank you for all of the valuable information!

This is my first go around with this type of rear. Sorry if I don't understand some of your suggestions.
As for part E8TZ-1A124-A, are you saying that replaces the 2 nuts and lock washer?

My reference is the Haynes Manual Exploded view. It seems what I'll be removing is the Axle, gasket, 2 nuts, lock washer and outer roller bearing.........

I then repack and install the outer roller bear, then the one piece ratcheting style locknut, gasket seal then axle??

 

Yes the 3 in 1 is a replacement to the 2 outer nuts and a lock washer. It is only a suggestion, do not mean to throw a strange wrench in there.

I would think that since that axle does not come out alot or you do not use it hard (?) you will be fine with the stock set up. I only meant to copy and paste the torque specs for you.

The 3 in 1 is more a trick for rock crawling guys with front D60 axles nuts that can have a tendency to loosen up.

The hub/rotor should have a tap in inner steel/rubber seal AFTER you repack and install the inner beading.

 

I understand. I'll be using it to visit the cabin (dirt roads), towing and grocery getter.
No rock crawling etc....

 

Just clean and insp the bearing and races very well and then replace are required. And a good bearing repack and inboard seal replacement is a definite.

I am sure you do NOT want to be pulling the axles out again. Might as well double ck the rear brake cylinders for any sign of a leak and replace the rear brake shoes. Since you are that deep into it.

FYI rear brake shoes are side (left & right) specific.

 

What do you torque the 3 in 1 nut setup to?

 

Old # E8TZ-1A124-A New Ford part # 8C3Z1A124A ($46.55 each ouch) I have to go digging for that exact torque....

 

Found em for a lil cheaper on ebay also. Great to know they'll work. I want to replace my lockout setup as well

 

That that was Ford dealership price quote today, that is how I got the new part #. I never looked for cheaper ones they use to be $15.00 quite a while back.

You need to use the 4 point hub socket (like used on the front) to get the ratchet lock nut to work.

Still no luck on the torque.

 

Yeah I have a 4 point for my front axle. I can't find the torque either. I'll do some digging