EFI 302
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An '89-'93 5.0L Mustang engine would be better but, as I mentioned earlier, a Speed Density 5.0L can be converted to Mass Air.
Speed Density processors don't like changes to the induction, exhaust or cam and will cause problems. However, Mass Air will easily handle ANY changes you make to the engine.
Speed Density processors don't like changes to the induction, exhaust or cam and will cause problems. However, Mass Air will easily handle ANY changes you make to the engine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
....as it appeared just after I had gotten home with it from the wrecking yard. It came from a 1998 3.8L Mustang ($138.00). These transmissions are very stout just in stock form (rated for 516 ft-lbs) and have a 2.84:1 1st gear ratio, compared to 2.40:1 for the AOD. With even beefier internals, it would handle more torque.
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This is the Ford 4R70W 4-spd (electronic-shift) overdrive transmission that will replace my old (non-overdriven) 3-spd. automatic.
....as it appeared just after I had gotten home with it from the wrecking yard. It came from a 1998 3.8L Mustang ($138.00). These transmission are very stout just in stock form. 2.84:1 1st gear ratio, compared to 2.40:1 for the AOD.
....as it appeared just after I had gotten home with it from the wrecking yard. It came from a 1998 3.8L Mustang ($138.00). These transmission are very stout just in stock form. 2.84:1 1st gear ratio, compared to 2.40:1 for the AOD.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Things are simpler if it's Mass Air to begin with. I don't know what the conversion parts would cost now but, in the late '90s/early 2000s, it was over $500.00 (new) for the MA engine processor, wiring harness adapter, MA meter/mounting bracket and the two sections of rubber air induction tubes.
It's easy to tell if a Ford 5.0L EFI engine has MASS Air or Speed Density. If the rubber induction tube goes from the air filter box directly to the throttle body, it's a Speed Density engine.
If there's a chunk of aluminum (Mass Air meter) in the ducting between the air box and the throttle body, it's a Mass Air engine.
It's easy to tell if a Ford 5.0L EFI engine has MASS Air or Speed Density. If the rubber induction tube goes from the air filter box directly to the throttle body, it's a Speed Density engine.
If there's a chunk of aluminum (Mass Air meter) in the ducting between the air box and the throttle body, it's a Mass Air engine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Yep. 3.8L Mustang engines, 4.2L Ford truck engines or 5.0L Explorers came with these 4R70W transmissions. You'll need a stand-alone controller to control shifting of the transmission.
If a 4R70W transmission has two starter bolt holes in the bell housing, it will fit any Ford engine that has a 'Windsor' bell pattern.
If there are three starter bolts holes, it's for a 4.6L (or 5.4L) engine.
If a 4R70W transmission has two starter bolt holes in the bell housing, it will fit any Ford engine that has a 'Windsor' bell pattern.
If there are three starter bolts holes, it's for a 4.6L (or 5.4L) engine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
You can put the 4r70w internals in an AOD case to avoid the electronics.
Yeah the AOD is a power hog. I noticed a difference from my old c4. I think it takes about 40 hp to drive the AOD, compared to 15-20 for the c4.
Yeah the AOD is a power hog. I noticed a difference from my old c4. I think it takes about 40 hp to drive the AOD, compared to 15-20 for the c4.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
Things are simpler if it's Mass Air to begin with. I don't know what the conversion parts would cost now but, in the late '90s/early 2000s, it was over $500.00 (new) for the MA engine processor, wiring harness adapter, MA meter/mounting bracket and the two sections of rubber air induction tubes.
It's easy to tell if a Ford 5.0L EFI engine has MASS Air or Speed Density. If the rubber induction tube goes from the air filter box directly to the throttle body, it's a Speed Density engine.
If there's a chunk of aluminum (Mass Air meter) in the ducting between the air box and the throttle body, it's a Mass Air engine.
It's easy to tell if a Ford 5.0L EFI engine has MASS Air or Speed Density. If the rubber induction tube goes from the air filter box directly to the throttle body, it's a Speed Density engine.
If there's a chunk of aluminum (Mass Air meter) in the ducting between the air box and the throttle body, it's a Mass Air engine.
M9000A51...........86-88 (49 state) Mustang with M/T.
M9000B50...........86-88 (49 state) Mustang with A/T.
M9000T50...87-95 F-series 5.0L E.F.I. truck only. Not LIGHTNING. With M/T.
M9000T51...87-95 F-series 5.0L E.F.I. truck only. Not LIGHTNING. With A/T AOD only.
M9000L58...93-95 5.8L LIGHTNING Only. With E4OD only.
*
Mustang one shown:
Note, Camaro went from MAF to Speed density the same time Mustang went from Speed density to MAF. Camaro went BACKWARDS. Plus back then Ford's PCM's were FAR superior to GM's. It is said Speed density is better IF NOTHING changes. S.D is not very adaptive. As Ultra said, MAF is. Mass Air measures and works more "real time" where S.D goes more off of a pre-planned chart burned in to the PCM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
You're going to need some small-block engine perches to install the 302/5.0L engine. The current 240 engine perches aren't compatible.
I didn't see it mentioned what model your truck is but, I take it by the emblem on the side of the hood and by your interior rear view mirror that your truck is a '67?
If so, once you have the small-block perches (to use as drill templates), you'll have to drill two holes (per side) on the cross member under the engine, to mount the lower end of the perches.
The trucks didn't get a 302 until mid-year 1969. Any trucks before this won't have the extra set of holes in the cross member for these perches.
I didn't see it mentioned what model your truck is but, I take it by the emblem on the side of the hood and by your interior rear view mirror that your truck is a '67?
If so, once you have the small-block perches (to use as drill templates), you'll have to drill two holes (per side) on the cross member under the engine, to mount the lower end of the perches.
The trucks didn't get a 302 until mid-year 1969. Any trucks before this won't have the extra set of holes in the cross member for these perches.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
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You're going to need some small-block engine perches to install the 302/5.0L engine. The current 240 engine perches aren't compatible.
I didn't see it mentioned what model your truck is but, I take it by the emblem on the side of the hood and by your interior rear view mirror that your truck is a '67?
If so, once you have the small-block perches (to use as drill templates), you'll have to drill two holes (per side) on the cross member under the engine, to mount the lower end of the perches.
The trucks didn't get a 302 until mid-year 1969. Any trucks before this won't have the extra set of holes in the cross member for these perches.
I didn't see it mentioned what model your truck is but, I take it by the emblem on the side of the hood and by your interior rear view mirror that your truck is a '67?
If so, once you have the small-block perches (to use as drill templates), you'll have to drill two holes (per side) on the cross member under the engine, to mount the lower end of the perches.
The trucks didn't get a 302 until mid-year 1969. Any trucks before this won't have the extra set of holes in the cross member for these perches.
Would it be bad just to weld them in or is that frowned upon?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Personally, I wouldn't weld the perches in.
Once you have the small-block perches, just bolt the upper ends to the frame. The bottom ends will land where the holes need to be drilled in the cross member. Mark the spots to drill, drill the holes and they will be ready to bolt in.
Once you have the small-block perches, just bolt the upper ends to the frame. The bottom ends will land where the holes need to be drilled in the cross member. Mark the spots to drill, drill the holes and they will be ready to bolt in.