Fueling issue
Now to get back on topic:
Basically there are two items that everyone thinks you should check.
1. fuel pressure
2. Your HPOP's health
1. The fuel pressure can easily be checked with a gauge plugged into one of the ports/plugs of the fuel bowl so you can see what pressure the injectors are receiving. Being that you live in North Dakota it would be a very useful gauge by giving you some heads up if you start to get any fuel gelling as well.
For example - The ISSPRO electric gauge in the cab or a mechanical gauge under the hood. Many prefer the in cab electrical gauge so you can see the fuel pressure under various conditions while driving. But occasionally the sending units get flaky and need to be replaced. Not that often but not that uncommon either.


Since you are planning to do the Hutch mod anyway you will remove the restriction & screens in the mixing chamber but the gauge will still help verify the condition of the pump and if there is a restriction somewhere else. The fuel pressure gauge comes in very handy when troubleshooting.

Edit: I just ordered a fuel press gauge and a HPOP gauge for my F-250, thanks again for the fast shipping!
Swamps diesel has a very good write up & explanation of this:
http://www.swampsdiesel.com/site/how...f/pdf/hpop.pdf
What you are after is to determine if your HPOP can keep up with the demand from the program, whether it is from the stock PCM or a chip. This is what John & Rich were getting at.
By looking at the ICP and duty cycle you can basically check the health of your HPOP. What you want is a pump that can maintain pressure. I can't recall what the stock PCM will call for but basically once it max's out (John said somewhere around 2800 psi) you want it be able to maintain pressure like in this graph.

What you don't want to see in a stock program is the pressure bleeding off like in this graph. What eventually happens when a HPOP can't keep up with the demand is the ICP continues to drop and the duty cycle continues to raise. Once the duty cycle hits something around 53% or the ICP is way off you will trip a check engine light from a P1211 code.

So, by monitoring ICP & duty cycle you can check the health of your HPOP to see if this is the cause of your top end power loss. But this is also a very good idea to do prior to any chip install. That way you will know if your stock HPOP will be able to "keep up". It most likely won't in the high HP programs but a healthy HPOP will be able to keep up in the tow & daily driver programs.
If your ever in the Sioux Falls area feel free to stop on by for some coffee or a beer - always happy & willing to BS about the 7.3L & Excursions!
Frp Rebuild kit? If you mean IPR rebuild kit - maybe not just yet. We need ICP/IPR/FIPW data before we start accusing any one part of not stepping up.
FRx addresses the deadhead issue, and can help with cackle - but it won't solve a power problem.
As for pre-pump, I just say make everything in the tank as simple as possible (simple frequently translates to more reliable). Put a pre-pump screen in line to take the job of the screens removed from the tank. Pre-filters have a very real potential for restricting the fuel flow - I got a piece of this one before I installed the screen.
I applaud you for wanting the truck 100%, rather than masking problems with a tune. I feel this is a sound scheme for augmenting the reliability of the truck.
You asked about the Motorcraft ICP sensor - that's a good part. I'm more curious about the ICP itself (Injector Control Pressure). Stock WOT ICP is between 2400 and 2800, depending on the vehicle and year. What's important is the IPR, and you won't find an aftermarket gauge for that - you will get that on your scan tool/gauge. If your IPR starts climbing to try to keep the max ICP, that's a problem. If IPR goes significantly over 40% at WOT, even if it's stable - that's bad. If your IPR idles 11% or more with an ICP of 475-500 PSI on a warm engine, more details are needed - but lower IPR is better.
If you determine your ICP/IPR is doing something odd, knowing the FIPW may be helpful... or not.
Now... if the IPR values are getting as high as a student at U of W or U of C, more testing may be needed to see if it's the IPR, the HPOP, injector O-rings, injectors, or something else. As mentioned before, a sagging ICP and climbing IPR at higher RPMs will cause exactly what you describe.
My shifts are longer than my truck too but I think that's only because it takes twice as long to reach 3k rpm. My truck usually taps the red line before every WOT shift and my X will rarely ever touch it it just doesn't have the *****.
Now to get back on topic:
Basically there are two items that everyone thinks you should check.
1. fuel pressure
2. Your HPOP's health
1. The fuel pressure can easily be checked with a gauge plugged into one of the ports/plugs of the fuel bowl so you can see what pressure the injectors are receiving. Being that you live in North Dakota it would be a very useful gauge by giving you some heads up if you start to get any fuel gelling as well.
For example - The ISSPRO electric gauge in the cab or a mechanical gauge under the hood. Many prefer the in cab electrical gauge so you can see the fuel pressure under various conditions while driving. But occasionally the sending units get flaky and need to be replaced. Not that often but not that uncommon either.


Since you are planning to do the Hutch mod anyway you will remove the restriction & screens in the mixing chamber but the gauge will still help verify the condition of the pump and if there is a restriction somewhere else. The fuel pressure gauge comes in very handy when troubleshooting.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Swamps diesel has a very good write up & explanation of this:
http://www.swampsdiesel.com/site/how...f/pdf/hpop.pdf
What you are after is to determine if your HPOP can keep up with the demand from the program, whether it is from the stock PCM or a chip. This is what John & Rich were getting at.
By looking at the ICP and duty cycle you can basically check the health of your HPOP. What you want is a pump that can maintain pressure. I can't recall what the stock PCM will call for but basically once it max's out (John said somewhere around 2800 psi) you want it be able to maintain pressure like in this graph.

What you don't want to see in a stock program is the pressure bleeding off like in this graph. What eventually happens when a HPOP can't keep up with the demand is the ICP continues to drop and the duty cycle continues to raise. Once the duty cycle hits something around 53% or the ICP is way off you will trip a check engine light from a P1211 code.

So, by monitoring ICP & duty cycle you can check the health of your HPOP to see if this is the cause of your top end power loss. But this is also a very good idea to do prior to any chip install. That way you will know if your stock HPOP will be able to "keep up". It most likely won't in the high HP programs but a healthy HPOP will be able to keep up in the tow & daily driver programs.
If your ever in the Sioux Falls area feel free to stop on by for some coffee or a beer - always happy & willing to BS about the 7.3L & Excursions!
According to the picture (which is backwards if your standing in front looking at your engine) you want the fuel bowl plug on the bottom right. Using this hole determines what your fuel pressure is after the fuel has gone through the fuel system.
According to the picture (which is backwards if your standing in front looking at your engine) you want the fuel bowl plug on the bottom right. Using this hole determines what your fuel pressure is after the fuel has gone through the fuel system.
I did several runs uphill and flat ground
I'm not sure if my icp ever touched 2900 but i did see it hit in the 2890s
I never saw my ipr hit 38%
WOT 60 - 90 MPH my icp leveled off In the 2700s and my ICP Peaked and held almost completely steady at 37.9% I'm not sure how many seconds it took to get to 90 but it felt like forever because this thing is slow and I was worried about cops.
I got the same results flat ground and uphill. I think the excursion itself is considered under a load haha
I also did 0 - 90 runs and had same results but dipped down to 2500s - 2600s between shifts
From my understanding this is good but I'm just learning this stuff today. Please let me know and if this can be ruled out from the power issue.










