help pulling y block
help pulling y block
Make certain the hoist is rated heavy enough with the boom extended to the necessary length. Verify the hoist will lift the engine and transmission high enough to clear the sheetmetal. Are the front legs on the crane extendable far enough to prevent the crane fromtipping? No matter how well balanced or set up the hoisting device is, the engine will swing. Stabilize it with bungee cords or straps and go slow. Gr 5 bolts will work. Use flat washer with the bolts.
As Ray said your hoist will probably do it OK ,but if it was me I'd drop the trans. I find it a bit more managable to pull something 3 ft. long and heavy instead of 5ft long and heavier. Just my 2, only worth 1.5.
Worth more than that! I tend to agree. The only reason I was going to do both is as a test. I am going to replace them with a 302 and a ford AOD trans. My friend who is going to help with the installation is hell bent on putting them in as one piece. I gotta believe that the new trans is way longer than the manual. I am also concerned with trans mount and cross member interference both removing and replacing.
Worth more than that! I tend to agree. The only reason I was going to do both is as a test. I am going to replace them with a 302 and a ford AOD trans. My friend who is going to help with the installation is hell bent on putting them in as one piece. I gotta believe that the new trans is way longer than the manual. I am also concerned with trans mount and cross member interference both removing and replacing.
I have done it and its not a good situation. You have to lift it so high and do not try to move the crane with it up that high. The y block and trans will be almost 1,000 pounds together. IF you do end up doing it this way be sure to lift and then roll the truck out of the way.
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I used one of those pulling the flathead out of my F5 without taking the front clip off and it didn't completely level that motor..... close but not completely.
Another thought, make certain the ceiling in your shop has enough clearance to allow even the engine to clear over the clip. A few inches could be gained by lowering tire pressure. But, I agree with what others have said, not a good idea. I was trying to guide you to an educated decision in my earlier post.
In the long run, I think it would just be easier to remove the front clip. It's not that many bolts if you remove the clip as a whole. Since you are replacing the engine, it will be so much easier setting up motor mounts with the clip off as well.
Having the clip off will also give you a good opportunity to inspect everything well.
Having the clip off will also give you a good opportunity to inspect everything well.
I 2nd Joe's post. Unbolt the front fenders & inner fenders from the cab (FYI the top bolt is a stud on each fender), remove the radiator saddle bolts from below and you & your buddy can lift the front clip off leaving LOTS of room to both pull and install engine & Transmission.
Time to reboot. I will take the trans out first. What about the bell housing? Now that I am pulling just the motor can I just use a lifting plate bolted to the intake manifold carb bolt holes or should I still use the load leveler and bolt to some other locations. I am outside so no roof concerns. I will move the truck after I raise the engine. I will take a hard look at removing the front clip although this truck has been so Frankensteined I am hesitant to do that if I don't have to. I am beginning to think I am not much smarter than those guys on You Tube except that I had the good sense to check in with you guys.
I for got something very pertinent, if you remove the front clip you'll have to address the wiring as well. Horn, regulator etc can simply be removed but the running and headlights could be more of a PITA.
YES You can leave the Bellhousing on and use a lifting plate to remove the engine without a tranny.
Don't forget you'll need different motor and transmission mounts for the new motor you put in. Probably will need to have your drive shaft shortend too. Lucky you have a 56 that's already 12 Volt.
YES You can leave the Bellhousing on and use a lifting plate to remove the engine without a tranny.
Don't forget you'll need different motor and transmission mounts for the new motor you put in. Probably will need to have your drive shaft shortend too. Lucky you have a 56 that's already 12 Volt.













