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I have a full add a leaf in the rear of mine and it raised it 1.5" and not noticeably stiffer. I do like the idea of using a leaf from a rear pack on the front. Anyone know where you can get new clamps for the springs to hold everything in place after doing that? I was able to re-use my rear clamps after installing the add-a-leaf but the fronts dont look like it would have enough room to add a new leaf and close up.
I'm not sure if that was a question or a statement about flat and neg arched springs.
For my setup, I got V codes from an F350 and added the Skyjacker leaf (you'd of course be adding a rear B leaf), and the arch for the Skyjacker wasn't that extreme of a difference from the V codes. I had to use a C clamp to get it all together but when they were all aligned, prior to adding the C clamp, there was probably an inch or so gab between the Vs and the add a leaf.
Is that what you're commenting on? Are you saying your rear B leaf is way more arched than your new front springs?
Mark
Originally Posted by harley4jcs
HOLY S*** I will try to spane my post one more time. I WILL BE ADDING THE REAR overload spring from the B's to my NEW front packs as well because of front runners like you Tom.. GREAT USE of what I got for free with the B codes. My point & experience dictates THAT IT IS A VERY BAD PLAN and costly mistake to try to RE-ARCH a wore out FLAT or A NEG ARCHED spring with a add-a-leaf ( IE: the example of the Full Size Blazer I spoke of in the op) the ride is UNBEARABLE & I have a very high threshold as far as ride comfort goes
HOLY S*** I will try to spane my post one more time. I WILL BE ADDING THE REAR overload spring from the B's to my NEW front packs as well because of front runners like you Tom.. GREAT USE of what I got for free with the B codes. My point & experience dictates THAT IT IS A VERY BAD PLAN and costly mistake to try to RE-ARCH a wore out FLAT or A NEG ARCHED spring with a add-a-leaf ( IE: the example of the Full Size Blazer I spoke of in the op) the ride is UNBEARABLE & I have a very high threshold as far as ride comfort goes
Sorry, I wasn't reading what you posted as saying anything about "re-arching" a spring, I read it as saying that adding a full length add-a-leaf to our more or less flat springs was a bad thing, that's why I jumped in (and ON you!).
Now that I understand better what you said and that you plan to copy my setup I see that you are obviously very wise.
I run v codes and a full length add a leaf. I think it rides better than factory, but I was literally bottoming out the front axle on the frame as the bumpstops were long gone. At any rate it's nothing to be afraid of. No experience running one on the factory springs though. Mine sits up in the front but I'll be fixing that soon.
I have a full add a leaf in the rear of mine and it raised it 1.5" and not noticeably stiffer. I do like the idea of using a leaf from a rear pack on the front. Anyone know where you can get new clamps for the springs to hold everything in place after doing that? I was able to re-use my rear clamps after installing the add-a-leaf but the fronts dont look like it would have enough room to add a new leaf and close up.
A good off-road shop will either have some on hand or can fab some up pretty quick. Or, ATS can ship some out PDQ.
On a side note, when I was considering using rear leafs in front packs, the advise I got was that it would work, but would not be optimal, as the rear leafs are tapered toward the ends, whereas the fronts are not tapered.
A good off-road shop will either have some on hand or can fab some up pretty quick. Or, ATS can ship some out PDQ.
On a side note, when I was considering using rear leafs in front packs, the advise I got was that it would work, but would not be optimal, as the rear leafs are tapered toward the ends, whereas the fronts are not tapered.
The ticket is to use the rear overload spring if your pack came with one. It's nice & square.
It doesn't matter if they are square or tapered on the ends.
When I do spring work, I always bevel the ends of the leafs so they don't "dig" into each other. I've done a lot of custom leafs made from multiple packs.
It doesn't matter if they are square or tapered on the ends.
When I do spring work, I always bevel the ends of the leafs so they don't "dig" into each other. I've done a lot of custom leafs made from multiple packs.
Cool & makes perfect since to do. I was really just addressing which spring is generally used & it's square ends because of his post. If I remember correctly the over load needs a little shorting any hoo.
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