Seized Motor?
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Elder User
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Seized Motor?
So here's the deal. I was heading to campus this morning and my truck suddenly dies while driving down the highway. It wasn't overheating (according to the gauge) had plenty of fuel. It didn't sputter it just died. As in maybe it seized? It smoked a little bit a smelled like burning.. something. Oil? Rubber? That's my guess.. I checked the oil and it looked black and crummy and hard to read if there was any real level on the stick. It was almost time for the 5000 mark oil change but just barely. Also, I just put a qrt in about a month ago. If it ran out it would need to be burning real fast. I haven't tried starting her again mainly out of fear. Anyway if it's blown I need to find maybe a crate 7.3IDI? or the best next solution. What are your thoughts on a 7.3PSD Swap? Any insight or info on either will be greatly appreciated.
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From: Thomaston
If you were to get it home, put a brearker bar and socket on crank bolt see if you can rotate one full turn. If not locked up if not well you know the rest. You said the oil was black if it had water In it rhen it would be milkey.
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See if it cranks. If it cranks, you're not seized.
Chances are, you'd know it if it was about to seize, and these engines don't tend to fail that way.
The smell, well, there's lots of causes. But my trucks tend to do that every so often, thanks to all the little leaks in the darned thing -- PS fluid sprays from the cap and onto the driver's side manifold, tiny diesel and oil leaks, hot tires and hot brakes etc., so don't worry *too* much about that.
Not knowing much, at this point I'd be looking at the fuel system. You'll want to crack an injector line, floor the pedal and see that you are getting moisture from that spot when you crank. If not, you aren't getting fuel.
Chances are, you'd know it if it was about to seize, and these engines don't tend to fail that way.
The smell, well, there's lots of causes. But my trucks tend to do that every so often, thanks to all the little leaks in the darned thing -- PS fluid sprays from the cap and onto the driver's side manifold, tiny diesel and oil leaks, hot tires and hot brakes etc., so don't worry *too* much about that.
Not knowing much, at this point I'd be looking at the fuel system. You'll want to crack an injector line, floor the pedal and see that you are getting moisture from that spot when you crank. If not, you aren't getting fuel.
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Elder User
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I also got to thinking about head gasket failure? I noticed what sounded like an exhaust leak awhile ago from the passenger side of the motor. I also noticed that when it got heated up the Manifold pressure gauge would jiggle to the same tempo as the "tsk-tsk" I heard from the exhaust leak... Thoughts?
Thanks for your help
Thanks for your help
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Joined: Jun 2014
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When they turn off like a light switch it's almost always related to the "run" solenoid on the injection pump. There are two solenoids- one is the cold start which opens a air bleed valve and advances timing. The other allows fueling- if it is not on, NO fuel will be delivered. This is what tjc is referring to.
I would pull the injection pump plugs off and run 12v to them to check for a "click". If you don't get a click, be aware that the solenoids are replaceable without pulling the IP. If I got a clicks, I'd alligator clip hots to the solenoids and see if it fires right up. If it does, I'd look upstream for power problems. Fuse first, ignition switch second due to likelihood, then work back from the IP wiring.
I would pull the injection pump plugs off and run 12v to them to check for a "click". If you don't get a click, be aware that the solenoids are replaceable without pulling the IP. If I got a clicks, I'd alligator clip hots to the solenoids and see if it fires right up. If it does, I'd look upstream for power problems. Fuse first, ignition switch second due to likelihood, then work back from the IP wiring.
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I had a similar instance happen while driving with burning smell and all. Had a wire come loose from the high idle temp sensor and short to the block and it burnt up the fusible link that powers the pump. And when I say they burn, I mean practically on fire, all insulation charred and fell off. Definitely check the wires and power to IP. Personally, of probably just try it and see if it cranks. 1) If it's blown, it already ran on the verge of it for how long, so what's one little click of the starter going to hurt? And 2) you'll automatically know if it's seized up if she doesn't go.
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Elder User
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Okay guys well I got home and tried cranking her and of course it didn't start. It seemed like it tried and then acted like dead battery,(as if I had left the light on) so very hard cranking. It also reset my stereo and all that like it does when I disconnect the battery. Thoughts? I'll do some more detailed diagnostics this weekend due to classes.
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From: Western Mass
Check the battery connections, are the cables in good condition? Clean up any corrosion.
Make sure you check the ground connections on the block as well.
This sounds like an electrical issue more than anything else if its affecting the stereo as well.
Make sure you check the ground connections on the block as well.
This sounds like an electrical issue more than anything else if its affecting the stereo as well.
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Elder User
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Okay I've taken the alternator off and am heading into town to have it tested. I checked the oil and it had very little if any at all, not a good sign. I'm buying some jugs when I get to town.
Any thoughts?
Thanks all
Any thoughts?
Thanks all
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Elder User
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Okay well I got the batteries back in off the trickle charger and tried starting it. Mind you this was without the alternator in, I don't know if that makes a difference. But when I turned the key it tried to start and then made some loud clicking noises. Starter?
Still haven't had a chance to check fuses and such. I'm super busy.
Thanks for everyones patience and help
Still haven't had a chance to check fuses and such. I'm super busy.
Thanks for everyones patience and help
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
did it turn over? clicking noise from the solenoid is a sign of dead batteries.
did you load test the batteries after charging them?
fully charge the batteries, and let them sit for 12 hours. then load test them..
did you load test the batteries after charging them?
fully charge the batteries, and let them sit for 12 hours. then load test them..