Hi everyone, I'm still here working on the family vans. Prior I had posted problems with my Sons 1990 E150 shorty. It has a check engine light on which I need to address (Code 33) for his smog check coming up. But more on that later......

My 1989 reads a code 31 / 15. I got in to move it and started it up, 15 seconds later it died. It cranks and cranks but won't start.

I listen at the tank when I turn the key on and hear something cycle for 1/2 a second, but it seems forward of the tank? Isn't the pump in the tank?

Thanks for any timely help as the city code guys have me on their radar for letting it sit.

VannerDude

 

I may be wrong, but I believe there is a low pressure one in the tank and then a high pressure pump on the frame on the early EFI Econolines.

 

I'll pass along this Link to get you started on trouble shooting a no start.

 

Thanks guys. Wildman I already jumped on the link long enough to know I need to spend a few bucks on a fuel pressure tester.....maybe, and a spark tester....maybe.

I think I have a spark tester somewhere in my big toolbox.

I'll likely start the process with the help of 'The link' tomorrow.

I'm exhausted, worked all day cleaning up my work van, while putting paint remover on the cowl for the 1971 Chevy C10 I'm prepping for a repaint, running my oldest to the University and back, checking the interwebs

Thanks again.

 

OK, here's where I am. MY son and I did all the tests required in a 'no spark' condition. All the way to determining we have to check for a bad 'PIP' sensor or ICM. I have no idea how to find out which type I have. Fender mounted ?(and what does it look like?). Any body know if I need to pull my distributor to find out?

I did grab the materials to do a LED test light required for the testing according to 'THE LINK'. Charged battery to full, per instructions, prior to doing up coming testing.

EDIT: 2/6/15 The crickets are killing me here, however I have spent an additional 4 or 5 hours cruising the internet. And talking to my NAPA guy. He showed me pics of both the PIP sensor and the ICM that goes on/in the distributor. He thinks that if I'm going to replace the PIP that I should instead just drop a whole reman'd distributor in there that comes with the PIP already installed. I then have to figure out how not to blow the timing set up. Any thoughts on a distributor rookie pulling that off successfully? Or if it is smarter to just replace both components anyway? (PIP and ICM).
UPDATE: LED light test complete. ICM ordered. Wive's car died, figured out coil pack died, part ordered. Short supply of running vehicles currently, lol.
UPDATE: Wife's coil pack was solution ICM was solution to sons no start issue.