Oh no my friend!
A failed axle seal is a SMELLY, STICKY mess that you will never wonder about.

 

Differentials.

I serviced both the front and rear differentials. The rear is a 10.25 with 3.55s and of course the front is a Dana 44 split axle with 3.54's.

The rear diff cover leaked a fair amount. From both the front and rear.











I barely got the fill plug out.



After taking it to the parts wash.



Cheap coat of paint.



I used a Fel Pro Gasket and Permetex Grey sealant.





Making sure the vent wasn't plugged. Which it was.





Temporary hose on it so I could move it around at the time.



The yoke on the rear axle leaked and was very loose.











After tightening.





The gear oil for the 10.25. Valvoline 75w140. I believe I used the two quarts of regular Valvoline 80w90 for the front diff.

 

Mine was kinda sticky but not smelly. Only on the passenger side. This was the one I was worried about. Looked nothing like yours, thankfully!

 

I had an electric issue that really had me scratching my head.

The issue was with the turn signals. I would hit the brakes and the front driver side turn signal would light up. It would so do something funky with the brake pedal pushed as well as when the marker lights were turned on.

The end of the story is found in the following pics. I was so happy to find the issue.



The turn signals didn't work right as I stated above so I bought a new turn signal switch. The key had to be turned way forwards so therefore I knew the lock mechanism was messed up. I also replaced the igntion switch for safe measure. The windshield wipers would not work either. So I bought a new switch and a new motor. Turned out the motor was siezed up. Pics off all of this below.






Found a nest of some kind below the speaker.



Not a very good pic, but the two wires with bare spots on them someone wired togther. This was for the turn signal switch. I guess something in the switch gave out that supplies power to the brake lights and so they tied into the turn signals. Or something like that. But it was a pain in my rear for about 4-6 hours that I spent looking for the issue.



The turn signal switch has to be depinned to be removed and the new one has to be depinned to be installed.












New ignition lock assembly.



Everything on the column finished and ready to go back together.







I also scored a cluster from an '85 F250 with the 460 from a local salvage yard.



How the interior looked after getting it back together.



I installed it at this time but couldn't get the tach working right. I tried reading on here but I tend to over complicate things and it just didn't make sense to me on how to wire it up.



It also had this rigged up handle. So I put the right one on it. Also from a salvage yard.





I still needed a tach. So...






^^^ That is how it sits today as for the interior.

Cowl removed for the wiper motor to be replaced.









Cowl back on and windshield wipers working flawlessly.

 

After all that, I finally got to drive it legally. Still needs a lot of work. Still don't feel at ease driving it. But I know where I'm at with it.

 

Freaking butchers couldn't have jumpered it down at the crescent connector, where you could see it.

But Nooooo!
... they had to hide it up inside the column shroud.

I am SO glad my truck is mine.
It is all too easy to get PO'd at the PO

 

I had a few choice words to say when I found it. I have found quiet a few things on this truck that someone done to make things harder for me.

The real kicker was they tried to remove the steering wheel to replace the switch but stripped the steering wheel puller screws out. So I had that to deal with as well.

This truck actually used to belong to Midwest Sheet Metal Co.

It might take a minute for your eyes to catch it but it's there.









They also made the storage bin or whatever you prefer to call it behind the driver seat. Pic was taken before I cleaned the interior. It was pretty dirty when I bought the truck.




Whether they did the work on the truck or not I don't know and it doesn't really make a difference to me or not. I'm just glad it's mine now.

In the summer the bed and cab is coming off, getting painted and fulley repaired. The engine, transmission and transfer case are also getting removed and the engine bay and fenders painted. I will probably just replace the fenders.

Keeping the T19 and 1345. Rebuilding both. Rebuilding the 460 and would like 300hp out of it from the current 235 that they were reported as having.

I also want to go to a Dana 60 solid front axle.

 

I think 300Hp will be easy but don't even believe 220 with the retarded cam from the factory.
Deck the block. Get quench and compression at the same time.
Remember, there is no replacement for displacement!

 

I plan on having it decked and the heads milled just enough to make sure they are flat. Then some porting on the exhaust side. I'd like enough of a cam so it can be heard. Edelbrock performer intake manifold, ceramic headers, Spintech 3000 series mufflers and about 9.5:1 compression. I figured I may end up with over 300. I'm actually fine with how it pulls now but I just want to be sure of what's on the inside of it.

The current engine I have paper work on from Jasper engines. It was rebuilt around 6000 miles ago. Still yet. I don't trust anything unless I do it.

I have a timing set for it just haven't installed it. I will when the 460 comes out. I have a new Gates water pump too come to think of it.



I think the 4 bottles of Valvoline synthetic 80w90 along side the pump was for the T19.

 

That Comp Cams timing set. Look REAL close on each chain link and tell me where you see "MADE IN CHINA" on it. Bought an FE Comp Cams timing set last year and I found that on mine. Sent it right back. Looks like yours drives about the same as mine, except yours is louder. Did you happen to remove the ignition lock guts in the column while you had it all apart, to clean out the old gummy grease?

 

I checked each link and it doesn't say anything other than K+2. I could have gotten a cheaper timing set, one for about $35, but I opted for this one instead which is a Comp Cams Magnum double row timing set. Comp Cams part number 2130 which runs about $60. Maybe that's why it doesn't say made in China. I was worried there for a second when I read your post.

I removed everything from the column. The key turns a part with teeth all around it but there are flat spots on opposite sides of it that I had to line back up. I took all that stuff out, stuck it in the parts wash, put some fresh spray silicone on it before reassembling. Starts like a new truck.

 

The timing set we bought was the same set as yours but it was the 2108 for the FE engines. Not sure how old your set is. But ours was 2013. Cloyes used to make the timing sets for Comp. Looks like they switched to SA gear which is China. Hopefully you got a good one.

Big difference in how the ignition lock works in the cold eh?

 

My set is dated sometime in 2014. It says on the box but I'd have to dig it out.

I will check into it more before I use it for sure.

I really haven't noticed any difference with the lock in cold weather compared to when it's 60* or so. I have started it at 5*F with a windchill of -17*F and that's the coldest so far.

 

Mine would get super stiff anywhere below 45* F. Anything above and it worked good. Now it's super smooth and easy to turn at all temperatures lol.

 

Before mine was hell all the time. I had to get a pair of pliers on it the last time I started the truck to move it into my shop before replacing everything. I thought you were referring to the new lock cylinder. But yeah, the new one is smooth as can be.