VIOLENT SHAKE & BAKE! Help plz~
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
VIOLENT SHAKE & BAKE! Help plz~
I'm a little frustrated. Two weeks ago my front left wheel would start shaking like hell when I brake, not at first but after say may eight miles of driving. I have never been in a vehicle shaking so violently and after proceeding from a stop it would continue until it cooled down. I tore out the caliper and made sure everything was clean and lubed and also to make sure I did not put the pads on wrong. Fast forward one commute and the same crap. I could not go faster than 45 mph without feeling like it was going to disintegrate. When I got home the damn thing was smoking. I managed to get it to the dealership this afternoon and two hours later the guy told me that the guides just needed some cleaning and grease. They did not want to charge me anything (draw your own conclusion) for it. I was told they drove it up/down hills and it was alright. I left kind of suspicious and four miles later the problem revealed itself again. My next thought it maybe axle end play, bad bearings or joints? Intermittent why?
2004 f150 lariat 4x4
2004 f150 lariat 4x4
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,114
From: Jersey Shore
Copied from another thread I posted in:
The typical issues are in order of occurance:
Stuck slide pins
Hanging caliper piston
Internally torn rubber hose
Rusted pad ends in brackets (when vehicles sit for some time)
Sometimes with aftermarket pads you can have excessive paint on the ends of the pads which hang up the pads too, but this is typically an issue right after new pad installation.
Sounds like you're eliminated all but 2 and 3. Both are hard to visually check when the hang up occurs intermittently. If the brake hose is capturing fluid and not letting the pads retract from the the rotor (I could go into a long explanation) you can check for that when it is happening.
Carry a 6 point wrench that fits on the caliper bleeder screw so when the brake acts up you can turn the wheel for access and crack the bleeder to see if fluid is pressurized and dribbles out. That should also release the brake so you can move on. Sometimes just pulling off the road can pull on the hose during the turn and release itself so you may have to check more then once.
If you want to throw parts at the situation the hose is the cheaper of the two to try.
The typical issues are in order of occurance:
Stuck slide pins
Hanging caliper piston
Internally torn rubber hose
Rusted pad ends in brackets (when vehicles sit for some time)
Sometimes with aftermarket pads you can have excessive paint on the ends of the pads which hang up the pads too, but this is typically an issue right after new pad installation.
Sounds like you're eliminated all but 2 and 3. Both are hard to visually check when the hang up occurs intermittently. If the brake hose is capturing fluid and not letting the pads retract from the the rotor (I could go into a long explanation) you can check for that when it is happening.
Carry a 6 point wrench that fits on the caliper bleeder screw so when the brake acts up you can turn the wheel for access and crack the bleeder to see if fluid is pressurized and dribbles out. That should also release the brake so you can move on. Sometimes just pulling off the road can pull on the hose during the turn and release itself so you may have to check more then once.
If you want to throw parts at the situation the hose is the cheaper of the two to try.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cstanley44
2007 - 2014 Expedition & Navigator
6
Sep 3, 2016 11:52 PM
78sharpshooter
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
5
Jun 2, 2010 03:39 PM
