gauges issue
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gauges issue
ok when i turn my key one all my gauges go hard right and bury them selfs..
starts with the fuel gauge. the temp gauge then oil pressure gauge..
if i start the truck they all do it together and dont come back down until the truck has been off for a minute or two..
ive b een checking grounds and cant see any issues..
any ideas? would at least like to get the fuel gauge working again..
also i thought it would be a ground because first the dash lights went out and some how i got them back on then there off again..
starts with the fuel gauge. the temp gauge then oil pressure gauge..
if i start the truck they all do it together and dont come back down until the truck has been off for a minute or two..
ive b een checking grounds and cant see any issues..
any ideas? would at least like to get the fuel gauge working again..
also i thought it would be a ground because first the dash lights went out and some how i got them back on then there off again..
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
The gauges work off the sending units. The sending units are variable resistors that increase or decrease the amount of "grounding" to control the gauge.
If the gauge is fully grounded, it will show the maximum on the gauge.
If it is partially grounded, it will show less.
Current flow is as follows:
12V to a voltage regulator, fasted to the back of the gauge cluster. The regulator is about an inch long, with tabs for wiring. It drops the voltage from 12V to about 6V, because the gauges need 6V not 12V to work properly. This wire to the regulator is black/green
The 6V current then flows from the regulator to and then through the gauge. This is a short wire behind the cluster, and is black/green.
Current then flows through a long wire from the gauge to the sending unit.
If I remember correctly, red/white to the temperature sender, brown or white/red to the oil, and orange to the fuel tank.
It sounds to me that you may have bypassed the voltage regulator somehow, and applied a full 12V to the gauges.
The gauges need about 6V, not 12V to work properly.
Hope this helps you recheck your wiring.
If the gauge is fully grounded, it will show the maximum on the gauge.
If it is partially grounded, it will show less.
Current flow is as follows:
12V to a voltage regulator, fasted to the back of the gauge cluster. The regulator is about an inch long, with tabs for wiring. It drops the voltage from 12V to about 6V, because the gauges need 6V not 12V to work properly. This wire to the regulator is black/green
The 6V current then flows from the regulator to and then through the gauge. This is a short wire behind the cluster, and is black/green.
Current then flows through a long wire from the gauge to the sending unit.
If I remember correctly, red/white to the temperature sender, brown or white/red to the oil, and orange to the fuel tank.
It sounds to me that you may have bypassed the voltage regulator somehow, and applied a full 12V to the gauges.
The gauges need about 6V, not 12V to work properly.
Hope this helps you recheck your wiring.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
The gauges work off the sending units. The sending units are variable resistors that increase or decrease the amount of "grounding" to control the gauge.
If the gauge is fully grounded, it will show the maximum on the gauge. If it is partially grounded, it will show less.
Current flow is as follows:
12V to ICVR (Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator) fastened to the back of the gauge cluster. The regulator is about an inch long, with tabs for wiring. It drops the voltage from 12V to about 6V, because the gauges need 6V not 12V to work properly. This wire to the regulator is black/green.
If the gauge is fully grounded, it will show the maximum on the gauge. If it is partially grounded, it will show less.
Current flow is as follows:
12V to ICVR (Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator) fastened to the back of the gauge cluster. The regulator is about an inch long, with tabs for wiring. It drops the voltage from 12V to about 6V, because the gauges need 6V not 12V to work properly. This wire to the regulator is black/green.
1961/66 F100/1100 // 1958/66 Thunderbird / 1960/65 Falcon / 1960/66 Galaxie / 1962/65 Fairlane / 1965/66 Mustang / 1966/77 Bronco.
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New User
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HEY THANKS FOR THE HELP!!! THAT PIECE IS SMOKED HAHA BAD SMELL COMING FROM IT.. any ideas as to what i should do now?
Could i set up some thing to drop the voltage to 6 volts and be ok? or does it have to fluctuate?
Could i set up some thing to drop the voltage to 6 volts and be ok? or does it have to fluctuate?
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wheres this at? lol I went to Autozone and its 52.99 there and 58.99 at orielys and 108 and nappa lol.. so i have 50 bucks ..guess i wait ..
now how does this device work... does it strictly convert 12v to 6v dc? or does it fluctuate the ground?
now how does this device work... does it strictly convert 12v to 6v dc? or does it fluctuate the ground?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
All it is, a bimetallic strip that makes/breaks contact intermittently. So, 12 volts constant DC is pulsed a couple times every second or so and averages around 6 volts something like that. The gauges are slow to react, so it works fine. Make sure the CVR is actually bad is what I'm getting at.
Hm, they went up? RockAuto has one for around $40; this is why a lot of folks just cruft together a couple rat shack regulators for a few bucks. The schematic and parts list is on the net.
Hm, they went up? RockAuto has one for around $40; this is why a lot of folks just cruft together a couple rat shack regulators for a few bucks. The schematic and parts list is on the net.
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OH ITS BAD... the wire that raps the inside of one of the small flat strips was burnt..
(yea i took it apart lol..) and the 2 inside pieces were touching.
so since its 12v dc fluctuations that makes 6 as you say.. couldn't i use say a 6 volt car cell phone charger.. that would be the 6 volts required for the gauges to work right? or even a step down?
(yea i took it apart lol..) and the 2 inside pieces were touching.
so since its 12v dc fluctuations that makes 6 as you say.. couldn't i use say a 6 volt car cell phone charger.. that would be the 6 volts required for the gauges to work right? or even a step down?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Suggest check to see that the instrument panel is well ground especially if it's of the plastic sweeping speedo variety, also, the connections at the gauge are secure. On my 65 ran a ground wire from the instrument cluster to a clean surface on the pedal assembly.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1964-1966-Mustang-Instrument-Cluster-Voltage-Regulator-Solid-State-Bronco-/261744563431?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cf13114e7&vxp=mtr
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