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How do 4x4 auto hubs really work?

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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 02:32 PM
  #16  
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"Vacuum is the best way to actuate them " I'll take my hand cranks ANYDAY over the AUTO crap (I've run both). You can buy a NEW pair of Stainless Steel Mile Markers Life Time Warranty Hubs for less than the cost 1 NEW factory plastic P.O.S.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 02:40 PM
  #17  
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It is important to note that they are not always under vacuum when in 4x4... The pulse to engage them holds vacuum for a time long enough to "click them in" and then the vac goes away. When they release after turning the dial back to 4x2, the pulse of vacuum applied is shorter and "clicks them back out"... Hence the ink pen comparison. You can take them apart and click the mechanism back and forth and see how it locks in and out. With good vac, good seals and a clean lubed hub they work great. Neglect them and they will fail. A popular mod on 98-2000 pulse hub rangers is to break the ends off and push the center inward to engage/disengage the hubs. Its similar on the superduty with the addition of a manual **** to overide.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 07:05 PM
  #18  
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Got home from church today to find a dodge neon stuck in my yard...yep, in the yard. Some kids driving through the field next to the house and it rained here yesterday, so when they hit the drainage at the edge of the yard they crashed hard into the mud. Went to pull them out with the EX, and the hubs didn't lock. Manually they did though and I got the job done. But then they wouldn't unlock. Had to tear them down again. Forget everything I said about auto hubs. There is a set of mile markers in my shopping cart. Crow is yummy!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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VERY GRACEFULLY DONE I MUST SAY...
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 12:25 AM
  #20  
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Yeah that's the thing. I loved mine until they quit working. Then I priced the seals. And then I was like, well forget that. It's a great system, especially when on a long trip when you want to save gas but might hit bad weather. But when it goes bad it makes you realize how needlessly complex it is just to avoid hopping out and locking the hubs, which is no big deal.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 05:51 AM
  #21  
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And those issues are the UP SIDE:


"All of the above + Your auto hub can fail and stick you in the Mexican Desert after you have taken your truck to the dealer 3 times for the problem under warranty!! " no problem found " is all I could get from Ford. 2 weeks later I'm getting a crash course in Mexican road side edict . GO with 449SS mile markers Under $130 pair, Less than a down payment on a single factory auto. Yea you have to lock in the hubs outside the truck BIG DEAL. I'll take that over the options any day. "
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 07:32 AM
  #22  
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I wouldn't mind replacing with esof hubs, the price doesn't scare me off, nor does the vac system. Its the mode of failure I don't like. Wonder how many people are cruising down the freeway with one side locked and don't know it? That can't be good for things up front.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 08:28 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 05MilMachine
I wouldn't mind replacing with esof hubs, the price doesn't scare me off, nor does the vac system. Its the mode of failure I don't like. Wonder how many people are cruising down the freeway with one side locked and don't know it? That can't be good for things up front.
Won't hurt a thing. The driveshaft will stay stationary and the other side will be spinning the opposite direction, but no power will be transferred. Other brands without lockouts have the front differential spinning 100% of the time.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 10:15 AM
  #24  
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whats annoying is you can tear them down, and make them work manually 100% of the time while holding them in your hands. Over and over. Then as soon as you install it, it wont unlock after locking it.
Tom, I am sure you are correct, it probably doesn't really hurt anything. I guess I just don't like the thought of the differential carrier, spider gears and such going around in circles like that at 75 MPH when they don't have to, driven by only one side. Doesn't that add to tire wear?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 12:26 PM
  #25  
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What happens to the vacuum once switched over to aftermarket manual locking ones. Does it still just leak? ok to let it leak? Best way to block off at pump?
To me I would think there's more to just switching hubs, you still push the button and it sends signal to pump and t-case to engage......
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 12:59 PM
  #26  
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you simply plug the vac lines either at the hub or at the solenoid. Only the diesels have the vac pump, but if I'm not mistaken, it still needs to work for the hvac? Don't know as I haven't had a diesel.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 07:07 PM
  #27  
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I always see posting like this, I had a problem on my previous EX at 160k miles I replaced both with OEM and sold at 238k with no issues.

My current EX is now at 150k on originals used 4x4 a few times last month with no problems.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 12:06 AM
  #28  
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Yes with a diesel the heater will only blow on defrost if you don't plug them. Mine aren't plugged and I verified that this winter (before hitting a tree in 2wd, unrelated. Whatever) .
Anyway I'm not sure where the module is that provides vacuum. Was meaning to trade the vacuum lines and plug it at the source and remove the lines just for clean ness but now I've got a smashed truck so I'm not sure when I'll get around to that. Anyone else plug theirs at the esof or whatever it's called?
 
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