Quick Fuel S. Adjustment Note: I began tuning the secondary after installing the QF pod. To get some pointers about working with it I turned to the net. I was surprised to learn that people on the forums say it works well, when you have found the proper spring for your engine. It is not one fits all. It is a fine tuning system.

I found that perplexing and contrary to 'Quick.' If Quick Fuel new that, why didn't they make it easy to change springs? Instead of making it easy and Quick, they only added a tuning aspect to the existing Holley pod, and because of the location of the adjustment screw, it prevents the owner from getting the Quick type change cap. They went backwards with ease of design.

A great design would have been to offer the easy access type cap with tunable pod.

 

The linkage should come down from the choke and then the bend should face outward away from the carb. It'll go through the hole coming from the carb side of the arm and then the cotter pin should be on the other side away from the carb.
The hooked plastic arm should hang over the top of all of that.

I agree about the 465 feeling right.
I also found my paperwork for the Offenhauser DP. It says that the recommended carbs are:

Holley 8007 (390 cfm)
Carter 9400 (400 cfm)
Holley 1848 (465 cfm)

My last fillup, after 250 miles of around town driving, and a lot of very spirited, fun-having driving, I got 12mpg, so I'm quite pleased.

I'll be curious how that'll be when summer hits, and I tame down a bit.


You don't have the 1.7's anymore?

 

Wow, that's good to know. I thought it was an ends-all solution. Not one where you can dial in your current spring. It didn't say anything about that in their description.
And yeah, the quick-change cap makes a 20 minute project of changing that spring out into a 5 minute one. It's well worth it.

If that's the case, I may just save my dollars and get a quick-change cap for this carb.

 

Today I was playing with the secondary pod and had the choke off. Just out of curiosity I found that even with the heat vacuum tube end capped, for the hot air choke, I could still blow/suck through the vacuum hole that connects to carb body. It operates the little plunger deal for the hot air choke. I plugged it and found I got a smoother idle.

Does anyone have an inexpensive method for dropping 12v to 7v for the electric choke hot lead?

 

Does anybody know for certain exactly where the little cork washer that comes with the quick change cap goes?

 

Interesting on the vacuum hole and the idle. I wonder why that is?
Would plugging it not affect the operation of the secondaries?

On mine, my alternator simply has a 7v prong on it and I tied it into that. For a while, I had it on 12v as per Holley's instructions, but found it just opened up too quickly. The 7v works much better, and was a 5 minute switch.


Carloespo, that cork gasket goes between the secondary housing and the main carb body. Just look on the secondary housing where the air passage to the body is, and you'll notice that around it is soft material. Just dig that out with a tiny flat blade screwdriver and pop the new cork gasket in. It has nothing to do with the quick change cap itself, but they know you'll be removing the secondary housing to put the cap on.

 

I'm sorry for the confusion. The vacuum orifice I spoke of goes into the choke housing, not the secondary dia. pod. Although you plugged the large male fitting on the outside of the housing, used for the hot air choke, vacuum still enters the housing and will leak in around the cap. I found that when I plugged it where it connects to the main body I got a smoother idle. One v. leak left bleeding in the road! (About to kill an old woman in my fiction and the effects bled into the forum. Can you tell?).

I saw a member's tag line that struck home because I switched from a 600 cfm carb to the 465: "You can't jet down cfm."

 

"About to kill an old woman in my fiction..." Mounting a challenge to Horace Walpole in the Gothic Horror genre?

 

Update.

Went on a 600 mile round trip up through the heart of Idaho (from Boise to Moscow). Hands down one of the most beautiful drives in the whole country!

It was a fun trip. Being that I just got my second degree, my wife and I drove up to visit the University of Idaho in Moscow, which is where I got my first one. It was a good time just visiting places the two of us used to go, seeing where we lived, the campus, catching up with some old friends, etc. It'd been 9 years since we were last there.

Either way, it was fun taking the Bronco up and back since it's what I drove around while I was up there. Cruised around on some of the old roads and trails I used to go on. Pretty cool.
It was fun for the two of us to compare how it drives now vs. how it drove back then. It's a very hilly/mountainous landscape so there's lots of climbing to do. I used to struggle to get up most of the hills (I remember even putting on my hazards from time to time when I was going 20 in a 65) so it was nice being able to power up the hills without breaking a sweat.

The Bronco drove great. About the only time I was feeling the need for more power was on some of the steeper grades where I struggled keeping it above 55. I imagine some head work and a new cam would fix that, but in the mean time, that's still doing great. I also could have easily kept it at 65 if I wanted to downshift and run the engine at 4000 RPMs, but it wasn't that important to me.


So, long story made short, it drove great. It always felt like it was just effortlessly mulling along and never working hard until it had to (like, for example, Whitebird pass, which is a 2500 foot climb for about 4 miles up a 7* grade.)

I drove around 65 - 70 the whole way and got 17mpg on the trip there, and again on the trip back. I'm not complaining.

However, I just can't seem to lean this carb out. No matter what I do, it cruises around 13.5 - 14.5 AFR, which is just a tad on the rich side of stoich. I've tried smaller jets, but that only leans out the acceleration, not the cruise. I think I may look into getting QuickFuel's adjustable metering block. If I can lean the cruise out to around 15 - 16 AFR, I'm thinking I could easily squeeze an extra 1 - 2 mpg out of it, which would leave me utterly satisfied.


The Holley 1848 gets an A+.

 

Great feedback, AbandonedBronco!

 

Do you have a PCV valve in place?

 

I do. Why do you ask?

 

Sometimes people cap off the PCV valve and just use breathers. They forget that a PCV valve is a controlled air leak. Capping it richens things up.

My work on Holleys has necessitated changing idle transfer slot configuration and idle air bleeds to get things close to right.

 

Ah, makes sense. Yeah, it's fully functional. I also recently freshened it up with a new hose and valve. The old hose was mushy and starting to kink.

That's what I've found too. I find it strange that those circuits (the idle transfer slot in particular) is non-adjustable since that seems to be where the gas mileage adjustments come from.

 

I thought I would throw out a perplexing problem for everyone to ponder. NOS Holley 1848, rebuilt, converted to electric choke. When I adjust the choke in the wee hours and start in the day, engine cold, but temps at around 73* out, it clicks into fast idle and away I go. When I hit the first light, about 3/4 mile away, it idles SLOWER THAN WHEN WARM AND NOT ON FAST IDLE. It also chugs, the engine acting as though it is going to stall. It continues to chug a bit until I stop and it gets a good heat soak.

So, I think it possibly needs a bit more choke. No, I checked.

I have 7v to the choke. Once it gets a good heat soak it is back to idling fine, and NOW AT THE PROPER IDLE SPEED. Ideas???