Hey guys my original radiator in my 69 f100 is no good no more and my local radiator shop cant find a new core for it. So my quiestion is does any of the later year model radiators work for a 69 f100 with a 5.0 and no a/c?

Thanks

 

I think you need part number 433433

 

Anybody familiar with "champion cooling"? They sell a 3 row supposedly built for my truck

 

Champion? Yeah I've heard of them. So have many others. China junk.... Actual results may vary...

 

What part number are you referring to? Summit, jegs, champion has a cc433 which calls for my truck

 

All radiators use the same numbers to avoid confusion. 433 is a 2 core "jumbo". Usually made of aluminum/plastic nowadays.

 

Oh ok. I gotcha now. Lemme keep looking. Do you know if a 1970 radiator will fit?

 

On another note, be Damn sure that the mounting brackets are facing the right way and are correct for the truck. There are a bunch of radiators listed to fit, but I had a hell of a time finding one that was actually CORRECT. ended up having a new one modified.

 

Any decent radiator shop can take what you have and recore it. Take what you have to another shop.
Horrors!

 

If you're going to be replacing the radiator, it might not be a bad idea to look into getting a cross-flow radiator.

A 'direct replacement' radiator is simpler from an installation standpoint --because it bolts directly to the existing core support holes or, they're SUPPOSED to. However, a 'direct replacement' radiator is going to be configured just like the original, which is a down-flow design. A down-flow design is at a disadvantage, compared to a more modern cross-flow radiator design.

On a stock down-flow radiator, the pressure side of the cooling system is plumbed into the upper tank. This also happens to be where the radiator cap is located.

Under 'normal' driving situations, this GENERALLY isn't a problem but, if the engine is being run at higher RPMs than usual, the elevated flow and increased coolant pressures being output by the pump can override the pressure rating of the radiator cap and cause the radiator to start puking the coolant out and thus, can easily cause the engine to overheat. The problem can be compounded when ambient air temperatures and relative humidity are high, and in this case, engine RPMs don't necessarily have to be higher than normal for this to happen.

Modern vehicles don't run down-flow radiators any more. The industry has gone to cross-flow radiators. Part of this is because many cars these days have smaller frontal areas. This means less room to mount a tall radiator. However, the biggest advantage is the radiator cap of a cross-flow radiator isn't mounted on the pressure side of the radiator, like it is on a down-flow. The cap, on a cross-flow, is moved to the tank on the low pressure side of the system. This is a big advantage over the old design.

This means (in most cases) you can run a slightly higher pressure rated radiator cap (within reason) than stock from that of the original cap rating of the down-flow application of the truck.

If the radiator wasn't under pressure, the water (if no Ethylene Glycol or no Polypropylene Glycol coolant was added) would boil at 212°--and, it wouldn't take very long for that to happen. A cap that's just rated for 10 psi will raise the closed system boiling point of the water to 239°. A 20 psi cap would raise the boiling point to 259°, 30 psi would raise the boiling point to 273°, 40 psi would be 286°, 50 psi would be 297°.

Stock radiator caps are generally rated between 14-18 psi, high performance from 22-24 psi, and racing applications 29-31 psi. By comparison, Formula 1 track cars have radiator caps rated at 50 psi and their engine temperatures run around 265°F.

Now, you can't just run out and install a significantly higher rated cap on an essentially stock cooling system and expect everything to be ok. Too much system pressure will rupture the radiator or blow the inlet/outlet hoses off. If you're going to experiment, with higher cap pressures, you need a cooling system with good integrity and just exercise some common sense.

The main purpose of a radiator isn't to cool the engine. It's main purpose is to keep the engine at optimal operating temperature. The thermostat is the 'brain' of the cooling system. It regulates the operating temperature of coolant entering the radiator and exiting the much hotter engine. An engine that's run at an operating temperature of 160° is too cold and temperatures should be kept under 250°. 'Optimum' operating engine temperatures should most often be about 200°.

A 2-row aluminum radiator, with 1-1/4" tubes, will cool more than a 4-row copper/brass radiator with 1/2" tubes. It will also weigh significantly less than the 4-row copper/brass radiator. This is also part of the downfall of a high capacity (multiple rows) copper/brass radiator. More core weight means being more susceptible to leaks over time due to road vibration and shock loads being placed on a radiator that has a heavier core mass.

'Rows' and 'core' are not the same thing and the terms are not interchangeable. 'Rows' is a description of the number of tube/fin rows a radiator has --i.e., 2-row, 3-row or 4-row. A radiator can have multiple rows of tubes/fins but, ALL radiators, regardless of the amount of rows it has, only has one core. The core of a radiator is the TOTAL combined tubed/finned area, between the tanks.

 

If you were located in Southern California I have a FE old metal style radiator in working condition you could have if you come pick it up! Put it on Craigslist for $20 and got no bites. Not the prettiest, but it gets the job done.

 

1965 F100/350 radiators have the mounting flanges in a different location than 1966/79 radiators.

1967/72 F100/350 ~ TWO different radiator supports:

C7TZ-16138-A .. Radiator Support-Use with Standard/Xtra Cooling & A/C radiators. NOT used with Super Cooling radiator / Obsolete

Standard/Xtra Cooling & A/C radiators measure approx. 26 1/4" wide x 19 3/4" high.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
C7TZ-16138-B .. Radiator Support-Use with Super Cooling radiator only / Obsolete

Super Cooling radiator measures approx. 26 1/4" wide x 24 1/8" high.

Since the Super Cooling radiator has a larger opening radius than the other radiators, its radiator support is specific.

 

And that is what screws everything up.

 

Some people assume that all 1967/72 F100/350's with V8's use the same radiator support and radiators, but that's false.

The Super Cooling radiator (has a HUGE top tank) is different than the standard, xtra cooling and A/C radiators.

Super Cooling radiator support has a larger opening radius than the other radiator support.

Some people buy radiators from auto parts stores, then when they attempt to install them, wonder why they won't fit their radiator support.

1966 F100/250 2WD & 1967/76 F100/350 FE radiators interchange, but people have to be darn sure they know what the measurements are.

1973/79 F100/350's with round headlamps also use TWO different radiator supports. One is used with the Super Cooling radiator only, t'other is used without.

And, there are TWO different fan shrouds used with 1967/76 F100/350's with FE engines. Super Cooling fan shroud is different than without.

The good news is, Carpenter has repro'd both of these fan shrouds and has their measurements listed along with the Ford part numbers in his 1967/79 truck catalog.

 

Not the cheapest route but I've had good success with my Brice Thomas aluminum radiator. They are made in Gadsden, AL by CGJ Heat Exchange. It's the old down flow type but bolts in easily.

http://www.cgj.com/store/category/fo...iators/page/4/


The crossflow mentioned is a good idea as well, it just involves some fabbing to mount and creative hose routing.