Starter not disengaging
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Starter not disengaging
Im at the point of getting my truck to finally start after a complete tear down. Now I have a complete fresh 390cid and a c-6 trans,and all brand new assories, ie started, solenoid, alternator, and key switch housing. My problem is that when I go to turn the engine over with the key it will not disengage the starter when I let off the key in start position, keeps trying to start. So I ve been through everything from new key switch and tumbler, new solenoid, new starter, and I even made new grounds for everything but still dose the same thing. If anyone has any ideas what it could be or what to do that would be great. Im going out today to buy a new solenoid(inner fender one) and give that a try.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
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normally thats 1 of 2 things, clearance between the fly wheel teeth and the starter teeth are to tight or going in to far, a small shim normally will fix it. Other,bad bendix in the starter and yes new one's can have a bad bendix.
Fleet Mechanic
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Easy way to check is to pull the starter, reconnect to solenoid and see if starter works correctly. Next step is to measure voltages at solenoid during and post start to make sure that's wired and/or working correctly
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The starter is working it turns the engine over but when u let off the key which should stop the starter from turning it keeps going, something has to tell the starter to stop- the solenoid right? And at sometime it will start to turn the engine over when key is in assecorie position, so that's why I went with complete new key switch.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2009
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The starter is working it turns the engine over but when u let off the key which should stop the starter from turning it keeps going, something has to tell the starter to stop- the solenoid right? And at sometime it will start to turn the engine over when key is in assecorie position, so that's why I went with complete new key switch.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
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Wow, that almost sounds like some wires shorting under the dash. The solenoid should only be energized in the start position on the key switch.
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Don't have a volt meter to check them. I'm talking bout the position between off and start, the spot tha will make the dash/radio/fan work with out truck running. I have followed the 2 wires from solenoid to the fire wall no breaks or crossing in that whip. I replaced the whole key switch inside the truck, the switch housing and tumbler, which is only mechanical.
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Fleet Mechanic
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Don't have a volt meter to check them. I'm talking bout the position between off and start, the spot tha will make the dash/radio/fan work with out truck running. I have followed the 2 wires from solenoid to the fire wall no breaks or crossing in that whip. I replaced the whole key switch inside the truck, the switch housing and tumbler, which is only mechanical.
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The spot between off and start is run and not acc. ACC should be to the left of OFF. When you let the key go because the truck turned over, it goes to run. If you have the chance, get a volt meter. This will help greatly for troubleshooting purposes. Also, one other item, when you check the solenoid post. If the voltage at the start post drops to 0v when the key is not in start, then the solenoid itself may be faulty.
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Well after a day of following wire and trying a new solenoid. It turned out just to be a hot wire cross plug. Located up near the fire wall, it's a small 4 plug whip coming out of the fire wall and the male end is just a cross wire for the actually hot wire from switch to start post on silenoid. Always something simple and right in front of u!
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