Hey guys. So I have a 06 6.0L. Lately I've been having a power issue. If I don't let it warm up 15+ minutes, it'll just shut down if I put it in drive and try to go. And when driving it feels like it's loosing power for a split second every now and then but stops once warmed up and driven for awhile. If I roll down the windows or anything, all my lights dim too. Any idea what could be causing this.? Thanks for any replies in advance.

 

Sounds like you may be having an electrical issue. Low voltage is hard on the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM). While you can measure battery voltage and FICM output voltage with a meter (there's a nice write up in the Tech Folder), it's pretty hard to do much troubleshooting without some sort of OBDII device. Almost every aspect of what's going on under the hood is controlled by the trucks computer and having access to that info is key to getting to the bottom of most issues. Click this link for a description of what kind of devices are available. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

Of course load testing batteries (seperately), bench testing the alternator and cleaning and tightening all the battery cables (including the grounds at the engine block and frame) would be a good place to start.

 

Both batteries and alternator have been replaced within the past month. Would an electrical issue throw a code.? I do have an edge evolution tuner so I can check any codes, but have not had any recently.

 

Not always but with your edge on live data you can see the available voltages.
Then confirm with a test meter. In your case I suspect an excessive draw.
Even with new good batteries you can have something drawing more vlt/amps than designed for. Starter;glow plugs to name a couple corrosion bad cables.
Specific tests will be needed to find what and where.

 

Monitor battery voltage (should stay above 10v at all times and be 14v within 2min after starting), FICM volts (should be 48v- less than 45v is bad), and VRef (should be very close to 5v) when it's dying and when it's glitching while driving.

The headlight circuit on these trucks can sometimes be their own problem, I've driven a couple that dim when operating the windows and had no running issues. With that in mind, how fresh are your fuel filters? Might be worth a shot to replace them.

Another unrelated thing to check is map/baro/EBP before starting. They should all be very close to each other. I'm not familiar with the Evo but if they are all in psi they sould be 14 point something depending on your altitude. If EBP is whacked out and VRef test above is dropping with EBP, the EBP sensor or harness is the issue.

 

So I checked all the electrical. Everything's perfect. But something's definently wrong. Sitting in my work parking lot right now because I started it to let it warm up and it just shut off and refuses to start now. Tried junp starting it and it didn't work. Now my edge is reading map-barometric press correlation, injector circ Lo-cyl1, and camshaft pod signal output circ/open. These were not there when I first started it before it shut off. So I have no idea what to try from here.

 

Try unplugging the EBP sensor. It's on the end of a metal tube coming out and up from the driver side exhaust manifold. Look closely at the plug and make sure the wires or pins in the plug aren't shorting.

 

Alright I'll try that here shortly. Is it possible it's just a clogged fuel filter and it's just not getting any fuel.? Not sure when it was replaced last, only had the truck for 4,000 miles. I also have not had a chance to put any additives in yet. Is diesel 911 okay to put in.?

 

Just generally speaking, the fuel filter used to be the first place to look if your diesel anything wouldn't crank but on these modern engines there so many electric do-dads they are just as commonly a problem. But sure, checking for fuel would be a valid place to start also.

You should hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you first turn the key to on- it's on the frame rail near the drivers door. It will shut off automatically when it reaches proper pressure, and start back up when the engine cranks. You can also pull the upper filter cap and flip the key on (works best with a helper) and see if it fills up quickly.

A lot of people have used the Diesel 911, but in my opinion there's a problem with using it in a 6.0. Its designed to bind with the water and allow it to pass through the system, our injectors are very sensitive to water and the tips can crack (causing running issues) or even break off (engine damage) if they pass H2o. The proper filter from MotorCraft includes a "membrane" to stop water while allowing fuel to pass. It looks like a fine screen and wraps around the fluted paper part of the filter. Best bet is to run one of those and drain the HFCM (fuel pump). There's a 6mm hex plug on the housing just for that. The Water In Fuel (WIF) light on the dash works pretty well and is more likely to be on when there's no water than the other way around.

 

So, I know that when you turn the key over, the fuel filter should fill up, but does it drain when the trucks off.? If it doesn't drain, would that indicate a bad fuel pump or is there a possibility its just clogged somewhere.?

 

Just to be clear, turning the key to on (not cranking) should cause the fuel pump to run for a few seconds.

As far as the fuel staying in the filter housing, that's a good question, maybe someone here can post a definitive answer but mine doesn't drain down, at least not right away. I have read some trucks do drain down and it doesn't seem to be an issue.

 

Uhh its supposed to drain down.. the only fuel that stays is whats in the heads. It drains back down help heat up the fuel in the HFCM.

 

How could you do a bubble test if the filter housing is empty? Changing my upper filter it's allways full when I remove the cap. On the couple of trucks I've done a bubble test on, they kept fuel in the housing for at least a few minutes. On the other hand I've seen people describing their truck problem mention the housing is empty/drains quickly and no one mentions it being a problem so maybe I am misunderstanding?

 

Looks like I found my problem.. One screw measured 48, the next 9, and the other two didn't read at all. Guess I have a bad FICM..

 

When testing the FICM, 48v will only be found on one screw. I haven't seen values for what the rest of the screws should read. If there are four screws, it's the one on the right (closest to the driver side fender), if it's a seven screw FICM it's the one on the left in the row of four.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html