I get the feeling that the PO when installing the generic ignition switch modified the hole and now I cannot get the stock ignition switch and retainer to install correctly. But not being sure I'd like to see if anyone has any photos of the ignition switch hole in the dash from their list of photos . Here's mine. Sorry as I tried to use my crappy phone to take the photo. But even blurry you can see the tab at the top and then the rest of the hole seems perfectly round but no other tabs. The top tab was actually bent backwards and up. I bent it back down straight and now with the switch in (upside down I believe) I can get the top to not twist when turning the key but there is nothing keeping the bottom part of the switch from rotating some when turning the key back and forth. WHAT really sucks is the dash is already painted. I didn't for see this as an issue. I will probably run into many more issues like this though...
SO any photos or suggestions on how to secure?
Thanks in advance!
http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...ps71bb7f85.jpg
http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f0c1b69.jpg

 

OH Sorry, forgot to add it's a 1955 F100.

 

The hole looks to be right...that said, there is no guarantee that the PO did not ream it out to a larger diameter. Here is a photo of a slant cab dash I built some time ago, the ignition hole looks just about like yours but once again, no way to measure the diameter.

 

I can't help you with a pic of the original hole, but if the hole has been modified, which it appears it could be, you can take a large fender washer, file the hole to the correct shape required, and JB Weld it to the back of the dash. That will fix the opening without destroying your new paint. Once fully assembled with the correct switch and bezel, no one will be the wiser.

Fender washer

 

Awesome! Both things I wanted. I agree that the holes look the same. It could be that the bottom of mine is a bit bent outward. Maybe making sure it's flat will make the bottom tab on the retainer catch at the bottom and not rotate.. well see. Otherwise the washer sounds like the ticket. With the washer idea I can also make notches to match the retainer so it for sure does not move.

Again... Awesome!

Thanks guys!

 

I did some more checking and I think I found the possible problem. I bought the switch/retainer/bezel from Mid Fifty. NO years specified in their catalog. I then went to a few others and this same switch/retainer is specified for 56-60. I get the feeling that the 56-60 ignition switch hole is different. Plus I'm not finding any switch specific for the 53-55. Mid Fifty states that on 53's the hole may need enlarged. I think I'm going to have to modify the retainer to work with the opening. I have an idea how to do that or just go with the washer idea... We'll see.

 

Check vintageford.com Part # 7835-4 1953-55 ignition switch housing assembly. Page 81

Than check part # 7835 *FoMoCo* ignition switch housing and part # 7836-2 ignition switch housing to dash spacer required when using the OEM bezel

Sacramento Vintage Ford is the name of the company

 

Thanks for the info. When I got the truck there were window rubbers from Sacramento Vintage Ford. The first switch you have listed would be the correct one to get if one didn't care about the different look it has. I also found yesterday that the original is probably FAA-11572-A if you can find one. There's a few on ebay. There's also a post on this site with a list of the stock part numbers used by the different 50's fords.
The 2nd one listed with the spacer is the same one I received from MidFifty. I found a photo of a 56 dash and see where the space would fit that dash exactly. I was able to modify the spacer to fit my 55s dash. I did have to file a notch at the bottom of the hole to accept the extended tab from the space. I should post photos if when I take it apart again.

 

I had to file the same notch in my 55, I have made a drop down dash pc and move all the switches to it, this proved to be a bigger effort than I originally thought, alot of spacers being fabbed and welded on. Prior owner had pretty much destroyed the original openings, so I would have hit the same situation you had.