Mounting engine to engine stand
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Mounting engine to engine stand
So which is the correct, or preferred, bolt holes to use for mounting the block of a 5.8/5.0 to an engine stand? And is it necessary or even advisable to place washers between the block and stand's mounting fixtures/fingers? Or whatever they are called. I am attaching the stand to the back of the block.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Southwestern Ontario
I used 4 of the holes the tranny bolts on to on my 302. Two fingers on the bottom of the plate went out to the bottom side holes, pretty much horizontal, or a straight line across, and the top 2 went to the 2 holes at the top of the block, the fingers straight up beside each other.
You should use spacers, my stand came with them and they are about 2 inches long.
If you don't have them, you could use iron pipe cut to length, about the same inside diameter as the bolts.
Also, use at least grade 5 bolts, grade 8 is even better, long enough to engage all the threads in the block. Use washers under the bolt heads.
Also, arrange the mounts so the block is as low as can be, to keep the center of gravity low, and a good working height for you.
I put the mount on with the engine in a trailer and then used a hoist to lift it and shove the mount into the hole on the stand.
You should use spacers, my stand came with them and they are about 2 inches long.
If you don't have them, you could use iron pipe cut to length, about the same inside diameter as the bolts.
Also, use at least grade 5 bolts, grade 8 is even better, long enough to engage all the threads in the block. Use washers under the bolt heads.
Also, arrange the mounts so the block is as low as can be, to keep the center of gravity low, and a good working height for you.
I put the mount on with the engine in a trailer and then used a hoist to lift it and shove the mount into the hole on the stand.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Thanks for responding. The placement of the fingers you suggested is what I came up with too. I tried a different configuration but, the one you suggested seemed the best for adequate support. I was a little concerned with using the lower mounting holes though since there isn't a whole lot of metal around them. My stand does have about two-inch spacers welded to the fingers. I used 3.5 inch, 7/16" grade 8 bolts and washers under the bolt heads. Someone in another forum reccomended using washers between the block and the spacers; not sure why though.
Attaching the mount to the engine and then lifting the stand to slide the mount was diffinetly the easiest way to go. A lot easier to line up one hole than it is four, esp. with engine tilted, and the two legs of the stand and hoist at the same width.
Not sure how to arrange the mount so it sits low as you described. Maybe a pic could help me out.
Attaching the mount to the engine and then lifting the stand to slide the mount was diffinetly the easiest way to go. A lot easier to line up one hole than it is four, esp. with engine tilted, and the two legs of the stand and hoist at the same width.
Not sure how to arrange the mount so it sits low as you described. Maybe a pic could help me out.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 36
From: British Columbia
Attaching engine to stand
Using soft (brass) washers between the stand "fingers" and the engine block will prevent marring the bellhousing mating surface. If a .005" burr is raised on the block, the bellhousing will placed out of alignment specifications.
But a little careful filing of the mounting surface after the block comes off will fix up such high spots.
But a little careful filing of the mounting surface after the block comes off will fix up such high spots.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Using soft (brass) washers between the stand "fingers" and the engine block will prevent marring the bellhousing mating surface. If a .005" burr is raised on the block, the bellhousing will placed out of alignment specifications.
But a little careful filing of the mounting surface after the block comes off will fix up such high spots.
But a little careful filing of the mounting surface after the block comes off will fix up such high spots.
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