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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Another no start thread!

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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 04:18 PM
  #1  
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Another no start thread!

Little back story. Back in September we had some heavy rains one day. During those rains I was driving around just fine. Stopped the truck for a few minutes and when I tried to start the truck it started, but felt like it was only running on one bank. I went through and looked for burnt pins on the harnesses but didn't see anything. After the truck sat for a few hours it started up and has run fine ever since until today.

Last night we had more heavy rain and this morning the truck refused to start at all. It acts like it wants to even chugs a couple times, puffs out some white smoke, but will not start. When It does chug a bit it feels really rough. Everything seems normal until I turn the key. I get a wait to start light like normal. Batteries are new and fully charged. Would a bad/ wet IDM cause this? I haven't pulled it yet to give it the shake test. There was a little water on the PCM connector this morning. Maybe it's fried.

I have not scanner other than a torque app and bluetooth connector. I tried to pull the fault codes, but it says there aren't any stored codes.

Any help would be great.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #2  
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Are your glow plugs working. I would start by testing the gpr
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:29 PM
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Here is a document that may help with your no-start.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...ew?usp=sharing
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 06:35 PM
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Today I plugged in the block heater for a few hours and was able to start it a couple time. The first time it started it ran like crap. Probably only one side firing. It died after a few seconds. Started it up a second time and it ran nice and smooth for about 10 seconds and then one side dropped off or something and it ran awful for a few more seconds. It did that a couple more times.

Before all of that I pulled the ICM to see if there was any water in it. There wasn't. I put a test light on the GPR and got a light on 3 of the four lugs.

I guess tomorrow I will check the UVCH an harnesses for burned pins.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:36 AM
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That sounds like the next logical step. A quick tip if you think it is running on one bank is to start it up and run it for a few seconds, then feel the exhaust manifolds on both sides. If one side it warm and the other is not.... then you know which side is working and which side to tear into.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 10:23 PM
  #6  
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Well the truck has been sitting for a week now. Last thing I did was plug in the block heater and get it started again for about ten second. Ran very rough. After that I felt up the manifolds on both sides and only the passenger side had any heat to it. After that I pulled the intake tubes and intercooler pipes so I could get at the pig tails. I didn't see any burnt pins, but there were a few spots where the insulation on the wires has worn through. I ordered me two new valve cover gaskets, pigtails to go with, and 8 glow plugs. All motorcraft.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 06:10 AM
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Sounds like a good start! If those wires were shorting out or grounding out, then that could definitely explain the issue. The IDM (supposedly) has enough smarts that it can shut down one bank of cylinders if it sees something in the wiring or injectors that it doesn't like. I would imagine shorted wiring would be enough to make it a little unhappy. Hopefully that takes care of it.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 05:21 PM
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Just getting into the wiring right now. Surprisingly after 248,000 miles the pig tails have never been changed. I was expecting to see some butt connectors or soldered connections after I peeled the wire loom back a little, but nothing. There isn't much wiring to work with on the drivers side plug closest to the radiator so I guess I'll just cut the wires as close to the existing plug as possible. Got to run and get some solder and heat shrink.
 
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