Engine Assembly...
#1
Engine Assembly...
I have a chance to buy a machined block, heads and rebuild kit. The heads are already assembled after being machined. They have new valve, valve guides, springs, injector cups etc...
The block has been machined +.20, but is not assembled. A guy quoted me 40 hours to do the job according to "book labor". My question is, how difficult would it be to assemble the block?
I have never built a motor before, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express last night and do believe I can do it. I have all the Ford manuals and most importantly, I have FTE!
The crank and cam have been checked and are ready to be installed. The one question I'll find out soon is if it comes with Forged or PMR rods. I have a way to get a set of Forged rods if needed and have them prepared to mate to the crank.
From reviewing I don't see the assembly of the pistons, rods, crank/cam, and lifters to be all that hard. The oil pump and front cover, oil pickup and oil pan, dipstick...
What say then brotherhood, is this a 40 hour job that I shouldn't tackle?
The block has been machined +.20, but is not assembled. A guy quoted me 40 hours to do the job according to "book labor". My question is, how difficult would it be to assemble the block?
I have never built a motor before, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express last night and do believe I can do it. I have all the Ford manuals and most importantly, I have FTE!
The crank and cam have been checked and are ready to be installed. The one question I'll find out soon is if it comes with Forged or PMR rods. I have a way to get a set of Forged rods if needed and have them prepared to mate to the crank.
From reviewing I don't see the assembly of the pistons, rods, crank/cam, and lifters to be all that hard. The oil pump and front cover, oil pickup and oil pan, dipstick...
What say then brotherhood, is this a 40 hour job that I shouldn't tackle?
#3
If you have the tools and work space don't want this job under the shade tree , I say yes! But before starting read the manuals! Take your time don't hurry and if not sure STOP! ask the folks here and make sure you understand what they are telling you ! Good luck and I hope you are in good shape cuz i think them heads be mighty heavy!
Smokie
Smokie
#5
Ha, yep the heads are about 200 Lbs as I understand it. The entire dry weight of a built motor is around 950lbs... WOW!
I'll have a 2ton engine stand and 2 ton engine lift that will help me move everything.
I'm waiting to get a quote on what the ford mechanic will charge to assemble the motor. If it's reasonable, I'll more then likely let him do it, otherwise I might take this project on. I have plenty of time. I'm just wanting a spare motor for my Excursion. I know the motor is dusted, but running very good right now.
At some point, I'll need to replace the motor so I'd rather be ready for that day when it comes.
I'll have a 2ton engine stand and 2 ton engine lift that will help me move everything.
I'm waiting to get a quote on what the ford mechanic will charge to assemble the motor. If it's reasonable, I'll more then likely let him do it, otherwise I might take this project on. I have plenty of time. I'm just wanting a spare motor for my Excursion. I know the motor is dusted, but running very good right now.
At some point, I'll need to replace the motor so I'd rather be ready for that day when it comes.
#6
#7
Thanks, that was the thought. I have time to build it, I don't need it right now, it's just nice that everything has already been to the machine shop and is done.
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#9
I'd do it myself if I were you. I have only rebuilt a two engines in my days. One was my Cummins 400 hp in my old Peterbilt and the other was a GM 350 CI in a van. The mechanical portion is pretty straight forward and it makes for a good learning experience on your engine. The only downside I see is that since you didn't disassemble it that you are not familiar with the nuts and bolts. I used several bolt buckets, one for each stage of engine disassembly to prevent confusion of parts and to prevent those extra bolts at the end of the show.
#10
Did I read over the part where you said you have a manual?
Definitely that..
Very. Good. Calibrated. Torque. Wrench.
Plastigauge is your friend.
Assembly lube is cheap...
Is it clean enough before final assembly? No... it isnt... clean it again.
I say give it a go. Building an engine with the appropriate peripherals sized and supplied is just a sequenced assembly.
Every hour you spend on it will get it closer to getting finished, and will give you another hour of experience building an engine.
Definitely that..
Very. Good. Calibrated. Torque. Wrench.
Plastigauge is your friend.
Assembly lube is cheap...
Is it clean enough before final assembly? No... it isnt... clean it again.
I say give it a go. Building an engine with the appropriate peripherals sized and supplied is just a sequenced assembly.
Every hour you spend on it will get it closer to getting finished, and will give you another hour of experience building an engine.
#11
Wear nitrile gloves. No paper towels, no cotton rags. Lint-free cloths, especially on bearings/journals. Getting the backs of the bearings clean is just as important as the fronts.
#12
The guy who has everything is really good about bagging and labeling parts, I suspect something will have been misplaced.
The price seems good:
Machined block with rebuilt heads $1000
Ford 7.3 rebuild kit with +.20 pistons $1100
May labor on assembly and I have a motor. I'll have to buy an engine stand to work with, but I think I can do it.
#13
#15