What does the green coolant do?

 

It causes severe upset stomach in our six-ohs. Cannot protect within required temp range. Eventually, head gaskets will blow. Catastrophic failure. Boo! Hiss!

Thanks.

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Short answer is it will clog up your oil cooler.

Better explanation is the good old green stuff we've used for years has a formulation based on silicate. It worked fine on engines with internal temps maxing out at 250-350°. Keep in mind the areas in the heads around the exhaust valves and the tops of the cylinders can get much hotter than the thermostat or temp gauge would lead you to believe. With the EGR coolers on our 6.0's the coolant can see temps twice that or even higher when towing at high boost levels. At these temps the silicate can clump up and drop out of suspension, these clumps find their way through the system and collect in the smallest passages, which happens to be in the oil cooler.

More modern chemistry resulted in organic acid technology or OAT coolants which could stand the higher temps of modern "lean burn" engines without separating and have the added benefit of lasting much longer than conventional (green) coolant. GM's Orange DexCool is a OAT. Problem was, it's aggressive to many sealants and gasket materials and leaks were common.

To combat that issue, a small ammount of silicate was added back in later formulas and referred to a Hybrid organic acid technology or HOAT. Usuially is a yellow color. Ford gold is a HOAT. I haven't read technical details but one of our learned Techs has posted there is about a tablespoon of silicates in the entire system when using Ford gold. Some folks refuse to use it because they feel even that is too much.

The red Cat EC1 rated coolant many are using is silicate free and the chemistry has been changed to be easier on seals and gaskets. BMW sells a Blue colored coolant Thea's silicate free.

I understand if your running Ford Gold coolant and test say it's becoming "depleted" of additives, the approved Ford Supplimental coolant Addative (SCA) will turn the coolant a green color. In my opinion (given how finicky our trucks are) if it fails testing, it's time for a flush and fresh fluid, not to mention having Green coolant confuses the issue.

And finally, all this is why a coolant filter is a good idea, it puts something in the coolant path that's smaller than the passages in the oil cooler.

 

Well now I'm scared. The truck has green fluid in it, I guess I'll be doing a flush in the spring.

 

ASAP would be better than replacing a Oil Cooler in Spring, I was in ford parts department today and seen the ford Green coolant ,I was in a hurry before they took all my Money so I didn't get any Info or Pictures of it, I believe its for the Newer 6.7 the ford Gold new mix was one shelf down in a red Bottle , My truck has had ford Gold 50/50 mix since birth 11 years old

 

Agreed, the issue now is I've had this truck for 2 years and it supposedly had studs and gaskets done, long story short it has the Ford gasket and bolt kit in it, injectors, oil cooler, and new coolant then. But it's green....

Planning on doing gaskets and studs along with oil cooler this spring/summer.

 

I like that.
I've always said, "If I could get a Ford F350 with a Cummins in it, I'd have my ideal truck."

 

Monitor coolant and oil temp, fully warmed up, at 65mph on a flat piece of road. If the difference between the two is more than 15° the oil cooler is clogging up.

 

The "ford gasket and bolt kit" would be head bolts. Studs are not Ford parts. Look over the air cleaner and see if you see head bolts or studs with nuts on the ends. The bolts are 6-point heads, the ARP studs are 12-point.

 

Oh, I already know that they have bolts. That is why the plan is to swap in new gaskets again and install studs. Maybe I will do a flush as soon as I can, might try and do the flush additive and see if that will buy me a little time. The truck is running great, no issues of bad gaskets, but my oil temps have been running about 5-8* higher at times.

I need to wait til spring until I get the Bronco back out so I have a set of wheels while the gaskets get done. Sadly I won't have the time to wrench on it myself either, working 2 jobs really cuts into things at times.....

 

Rich if your not having problems and you do have the EGR delete I wouldn't change it. But do the oil cooler for sure. Now if your going to tune it that's another story.

 

Nah....an "IDEAL" truck would be an F350 with an aluminum DDEC IV 6V-53 & twin turbos!! + an auto trans that wouldn't break behind it!

 

I have an SCT tuner, it is egr delete, 4" MBRP, blue spring, hpop, I do tow (main reason I have this truck). it tows the 79 Bronco to play a lot in the summer. So the cards are stacked against me already. I don't want to be on the side of the road "having" to do this I would rather have the plans for it set and just finish what was started.

 

Just a little update to my saga. Got the truck "fixed". New head gaskets, twice, new egr cooler, oil cooler and a bunch of other stuff. Runs better than it did before. The mechanic retimed it too. Bad thing was the $5200 bill for this. Now the engine should last till I die. As for trading it off, not gunna happen since no one wants the 6.0. I am looking for an open class action law suit on this tho. Anyone know of one?

 

We are a very detailed bunch on here,, we listen to details. What specifically did the mechanic do when he "retimed" it. Did your heads get machined???