High Idle Not Working
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More Turbo
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High Idle Not Working
When I start my truck I notice that my high idle doesn't work. I know that you're suppose to tap the gas pedal before you start it or something like that in order to trigger the "plunger" to extend and kick start the high idle although my plunger doesn't extend. I tested it and gave the plunger 12 volts and it then extended. What now? What needs to be replaced in order for it to be in working condition to where I don't have to manually give it 12 volts. My dad and I are led to believe that this is what needs to be replaced.. Part number E8TZ-9S281-A but the name of the part just doesn't add up to the high idle situation.. Could it be this?.. Part number E8TZ-9E939-A??
Please a second opinion will help a lot some help is better than nothing thanks again!
Please a second opinion will help a lot some help is better than nothing thanks again!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 273
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From: California
If I remember right, the solenoid isn't strong enough to move the throttle on its own; give it some gas, when you take your foot off it should then hold the idle to around ~800-900 rpm.
I disconnected mine a while back, it was more trouble than it was worth.
I disconnected mine a while back, it was more trouble than it was worth.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2014
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When I give it gas it doesn't hold the idle high which is what leads me to believe it isn't working
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,449
Likes: 5,518
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
first of, the key has to be in the run position to set the high idle. if you kick the pedal with the key off, the high idle will not set.
the high idle and timing advance are controlled by a temp sensor in the passenger front of the engine almost under the alternator.
the one wire connecter is very easy to knock off when changing the alternator.
get up into the engine compartment and look straight down between the alternator and thermostat neck. you will probably have to use a flashlight to see in there.
if the wire is off, you will see it real quick. i use long needle nose pliers to put it back on.
the high idle and timing advance are controlled by a temp sensor in the passenger front of the engine almost under the alternator.
the one wire connecter is very easy to knock off when changing the alternator.
get up into the engine compartment and look straight down between the alternator and thermostat neck. you will probably have to use a flashlight to see in there.
if the wire is off, you will see it real quick. i use long needle nose pliers to put it back on.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 618
Likes: 7
first of, the key has to be in the run position to set the high idle. if you kick the pedal with the key off, the high idle will not set.
the high idle and timing advance are controlled by a temp sensor in the passenger front of the engine almost under the alternator.
the one wire connecter is very easy to knock off when changing the alternator.
get up into the engine compartment and look straight down between the alternator and thermostat neck. you will probably have to use a flashlight to see in there.
if the wire is off, you will see it real quick. i use long needle nose pliers to put it back on.
the high idle and timing advance are controlled by a temp sensor in the passenger front of the engine almost under the alternator.
the one wire connecter is very easy to knock off when changing the alternator.
get up into the engine compartment and look straight down between the alternator and thermostat neck. you will probably have to use a flashlight to see in there.
if the wire is off, you will see it real quick. i use long needle nose pliers to put it back on.
I will look today for the wire to see if it is unplugged. If it is plugged in and still not working what is the next step?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
With the key on check that there is power to one side of the switch.
If not, there's your problem, you need that power.
If so then check the other side:
Engine cold, key on, there should be power to the other side as well.
If not, the switch is dead.
If not, there's your problem, you need that power.
If so then check the other side:
Engine cold, key on, there should be power to the other side as well.
If not, the switch is dead.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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Logistics Pro
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You bet! What I do rather than try to look up an individual picture I just browse the Under Hood Reference Pictures thread and find what I need.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Madison, WI
E8TZ-9E939-A is the part you want. Best price I found was AutoNation Ford, the Ford dealer that sells parts online.
You'll hear two completely conflicting stories about the R&I; some claim they can get a socket on it and do it in a few minutes. I and at least one other person had no such luck, due to the shape of the thermostat housing being in the way. Maybe it varies by model year.
(Don't EVER give it "gas", BTW.....)
You'll hear two completely conflicting stories about the R&I; some claim they can get a socket on it and do it in a few minutes. I and at least one other person had no such luck, due to the shape of the thermostat housing being in the way. Maybe it varies by model year.
(Don't EVER give it "gas", BTW.....)
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
E8TZ-9E939-A is the part you want. Best price I found was AutoNation Ford, the Ford dealer that sells parts online.
You'll hear two completely conflicting stories about the R&I; some claim they can get a socket on it and do it in a few minutes. I and at least one other person had no such luck, due to the shape of the thermostat housing being in the way. Maybe it varies by model year.
(Don't EVER give it "gas", BTW.....)
You'll hear two completely conflicting stories about the R&I; some claim they can get a socket on it and do it in a few minutes. I and at least one other person had no such luck, due to the shape of the thermostat housing being in the way. Maybe it varies by model year.
(Don't EVER give it "gas", BTW.....)
Curious, obviously that is a 1988 part number which is the first year of the 7.3. I wonder what the difference between this one and the 6.9 switch? They're the same dimension, same wire connector, so I wonder if there's a difference in the temp setting?
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2014
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So would it work on 91 7.3?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 618
Likes: 7
E8TZ-9E939-A is the part you want. Best price I found was AutoNation Ford, the Ford dealer that sells parts online.
You'll hear two completely conflicting stories about the R&I; some claim they can get a socket on it and do it in a few minutes. I and at least one other person had no such luck, due to the shape of the thermostat housing being in the way. Maybe it varies by model year.
(Don't EVER give it "gas", BTW.....)
You'll hear two completely conflicting stories about the R&I; some claim they can get a socket on it and do it in a few minutes. I and at least one other person had no such luck, due to the shape of the thermostat housing being in the way. Maybe it varies by model year.
(Don't EVER give it "gas", BTW.....)