As far as the CV IFS install I would rate the fabrication required a 5 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. I would not call it a direct bolt in, But I did not find it overly difficult. If you are planning on using your LS engine with the CV IFS you need consider how you are going to make motor mounts. LIke I said anything can be made to fit, it just depends on how much you want to fabricate.

Matt

 

watched some youtube cv installs. didn't see any that looked very good. think i'll wait for Helix or somebody to make a kit. Heidts has one but they're very proud of them right now and it doesn't look like it could be converted to bags. Helix shows something that looks like a bag replacement for coilovers. is that what it is? i guess they won't go as low as actual bags??? thanks.

 

If you get your stance, and the wheel/tire combo right (17" wheels and correct offset is the most important part IMO), the CV is the way to go. Biggest thing I tell people is to make sure the frame is boxed in quite a bit. Add strength where you can because cast aluminum doesn't like to flex. I have taken many people for a ride in my truck and everyone is blown away at the ride quality. The handling with the CV front and custom 3 link I designed is not like any truck I have ever driven. I haven't even had the time to dial in the rear links or even align the front (other than a crude toe adjustment) and it handles so well! I have autocrossed it, I have towed cars on my car trailer with it, I have taken it on long road trips, and I've beat the crap out of it, and its absolutely amazing! I have another CV suspension in my shop that I came across for cheap that is just waiting for a project to go in to. You can take a look at my project for some pictures and details. Its the 64 F100 shop truck build thread.


Andrew

 

yes, i saw your installation last and it's the best i've seen. looks good. still haven't made up my mind. thanks

 

If you are sure you want to go with an LS, the mustang II will probably be easier to make the engine fit well. The CV is pretty nice setup for fabbing just about any engine into fairly easily though, because the cross member is in a good place and its not too big of a cross member. For me it was about cost more than anything. Plus most MII I have see have are pretty dinky. They typically come with a 9" disc brake setup, some can be upgraded to an 11". The control arm are tiny, the rack and tie rod ends are the size of what you'd see on a honda civic. I do not like most MII setups because they just look like cheap crap to me. This is a truck, not a commuter car. I wanted something that could handle abuse and the weight. Not all MII setups are this way though, the expensive ones tend to be much nicer, the geometry is optimized, bigger components, just overall better, but you will pay for it. You really have to figure out what you want the truck to do, if you are really looking for handling, I think the CV is better than the majority of MII's. Also, if you want handling, toss the original style leaf spring setup in the garbage, because that will limit you long before either the CV or even a cheapo MII setup.



Andrew

 

that's the kind of good info i'm looking for.. thanks.
i think i want 2 or 3 inches lower than your truck. is that possible with the cv?

 

2-3" lower than my truck? That might be possible, but you will likely run into some issues because of it being that low. It will likely cause some issues with suspension geometry going that low. You will end up getting the lower control arms angled up which at some point will cause bump steer and may create more neg camber than you'd want or could adjust for. The other issue is being the CV is so wide the wheel and tire combo is somewhat limited. You need an extreme positive offset in the front, and if you go too low it will cause rubbing issues on the fender. Even if you got a narrow wheel (which is not what you want for handling obviously) you don't solve much because the width on a super positive offset is made on the inside of the wheel. Whether the wheel is wide or narrow you still require a certain amount on the outside, which is where you will have issues when turning if its super low.

The way my truck sits now with the black wheels is pretty ideal. The lower control arms are flat and the tires do not rub in the front even on hard fast turns. If I lowered it much more then I would start to get some rubbing that I'd have to deal with by rolling/flattening the fender lip some. Your best bet would be an air ride setup for it, so you can drop it down for the look you want while sitting or even cruising down the highway or something, but raise it up for realistic driving.


Andrew

 

^ All good points that need thought over before you can choose which is best for your truck And what your after.

 

fender rub and bump steer is what i was concerned with. i like the bagged look but don't like the complexity. do they make a narrow m2 with the 2" dropped spindles and coilovers that will sit lower than the cv? i don't want to cut fenders and ruin the look. is there a truck picture somewhere with that setup? thanks

 

Yeah, you could use the M2 because its much more narrow, and they offer lots of aftermarket stuff for them. However, drop spindles are pretty much one of the worst things for front suspension if handling is what you want. It screws up suspension geometry more than it already is with a M2 (CV isn't ideal for performance handling either, but a much better option on a budget IMO). Also, the narrower design of the M2 is also a downfall in the handling department. But it sounds to me like you care much more about the stance than anything else. If that's the case the M2 is for you. Just don't expect too much in the handling department. No matter what its an upgrade from stock though. The other thing that is part of the handling, are the brakes. CV is a stock dual piston, 12" brake setup that works very well. Have you driven many vehicles hard with a 9" disc brakes that come on pinto's? Sure it'll stop great in town, but you will learn real quick what brake fade is if you try to run it hard at an autocross or road course.


Andrew

 

i won't be doing any racing, just want a low look with good driveability, steering response, good brakes, etc. that's what i hated about he i-beams. turn the steering wheel and the truck turns later. sounds like the dropped spindles won't make me happy either. do i have to worry about frame rub with a narrow m2? maybe i can't get what i want with low ride and good driving??? how do the bagged suspensions handle?

 

A MII will allow for more rim/tire combos depending what setup you get. A well setup suspension on a good bag setup will handle great. Bags along with the rest of the suspension range from cheap crap to quality proven competitive products. Don't cheap out especially on bags if you get them or your handling will be worse then an I beam. Do you have the ability to fab and setup a MII suspension? Some of these questions are really rookie.

 

i'm a complete rookie at suspension. i'm a retired mechanical/robotic design engineer with good welding skills. mostly just built engines until now as a hobby. worked for a while as an outboard engine tech after i retired. sorry for all the dumb questions...just don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone has already done what i want. thanks

 

I have a LS engine looking for a home, and I have to restart my F100 after my divorce. My ex now wants to move to San Diego or about 130 miles from me. The LS is a good choice for mpg, and not having to get anything I do not want to pay for. As I do not think I will get meaningful enough mpg with a FE to bother trying. Power yes, but cracking 15 hwy maybe a stretch.

The LS will easily clear the CV swap, and even mine with the sectioned frame.