ladder bars vs trac bars
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ladder bars vs trac bars
So since I've got my motor built now, and a bigger clutch, I'm certain I'll need them. I needed them before but I just used second gear instead of first.
I'm REALLY liking this kit from precision metal fab.
http://www.pmfsuspension.com/PMF-Single-Traction-Bar-Kit_p_21.html
However they also have this
http://www.pmfsuspension.com/Fabricated-Unitized-Floating-Traction-Block_p_9.html
I'll put a Dana 60 up front and I plan on getting a full float rear around the time I do the Dana 60 up front so I don't want to weld it to my rear.
The block built mount looks sturdy, but I'm not certain it'll hold it to daily driver/hauling/occasional mud.
I'm looking for opinions guys.
Yes I could build them, but I'm not at home so I don't have the tools, or machinery to do it.
I'm REALLY liking this kit from precision metal fab.
http://www.pmfsuspension.com/PMF-Single-Traction-Bar-Kit_p_21.html
However they also have this
http://www.pmfsuspension.com/Fabricated-Unitized-Floating-Traction-Block_p_9.html
I'll put a Dana 60 up front and I plan on getting a full float rear around the time I do the Dana 60 up front so I don't want to weld it to my rear.
The block built mount looks sturdy, but I'm not certain it'll hold it to daily driver/hauling/occasional mud.
I'm looking for opinions guys.
Yes I could build them, but I'm not at home so I don't have the tools, or machinery to do it.
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From: Virginia
When you look at the first link, they say that kit is better than sliced bread and is what you need.
Then the second link says they invented the "floating style" to eliminate bind caused by the style they sell in the 1st link.
It's a well known fact the first type causes suspension bind. I am not so sure the second design may cause some bind.
Then the second link says they invented the "floating style" to eliminate bind caused by the style they sell in the 1st link.
It's a well known fact the first type causes suspension bind. I am not so sure the second design may cause some bind.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Parkesburg PA
The axle doesn't just move up and down; it also moves forward and backward as well as twisting. That's a lot for a bar to do and not bind up.
Some general rules of thumb. The longer the bar the better, too short and you can cause binding. The axle has to be able to move forward and backward. This is either done with a slip joint or with a shackle. The axle also has to flex, so the shackle or slip joint should allow some twist. This is either done with heim joints or hybrid shackles. They have a joint 90° from the other joints to allow twisting movement, but not axle wrap. A single anti-wrap bar is all you need, but it doesn't need to be centered. Although the closer to center the better.
Some general rules of thumb. The longer the bar the better, too short and you can cause binding. The axle has to be able to move forward and backward. This is either done with a slip joint or with a shackle. The axle also has to flex, so the shackle or slip joint should allow some twist. This is either done with heim joints or hybrid shackles. They have a joint 90° from the other joints to allow twisting movement, but not axle wrap. A single anti-wrap bar is all you need, but it doesn't need to be centered. Although the closer to center the better.
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No lift and factory block. I'm looking into the block mount from pmf though. I do have bigger tires, 36".
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36s are the issue. bigger tire is a longer lever. Slapper bars would stop much of the hop but a set of ladder bars would be better. What is the use of the truck? Street allows for more rigidity, off road needs some flexy movement. With ladders expect a crappy ride loaded. How are you fitting 36 tires stock in the rear?
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I've got them all the way around. Don't run except full lock left, nothin on full lock right.
I bolted them on...I have can Ross trenches and **** too.
It's a f250. It's a daily driver, but it does go off road and it does haul..maybe a quick detachment pin and remove them?
I bolted them on...I have can Ross trenches and **** too.
It's a f250. It's a daily driver, but it does go off road and it does haul..maybe a quick detachment pin and remove them?
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Quick release means more complex. Personally I would get new springs before ladder arms. Find a good spring shop and explain the situation. He should be able to tune a spring to eliminate the hop. The hop is caused by spring wrap and then unloading. Get the spring to stop twisting the wheel hop goes away. Assuming a 20 yo truck the springs are probably shot anyway.
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My issue with that is, within the next year or so, I'm doing a Dana 60 front and shackle flips in the rear and I'll either use a super duty leave pack or a f350 leave pack to get the added hauling capabilities. And more then likely a full floater rear and locker.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
I have PMFs traction bars. Mine were the 1st set he made to be a bolt on kit.
Fixed my spring wrap problem and shudder at take off. I have zero bind and it did not effect the ride one way or the other
Fixed my spring wrap problem and shudder at take off. I have zero bind and it did not effect the ride one way or the other
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From: Virginia
You definitely have bind. Now you might not be able to feel it, especially if you have the air springs inflated. If your rear suspension doesn't move very much, you will not notice it. Even if it is binding you still may not notice it. But there is no way the rear spring can work as it was designed by having it tied to the frame like that.
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See I feel like the bind that will be noticed is in high flex scenarios.
And shutter? Like in reverse and the back hops? Yeah that's annoying as hell.
How are those mounted and how does the bottom of your truck look so new!
Have you looked at their newer kits?
And shutter? Like in reverse and the back hops? Yeah that's annoying as hell.
How are those mounted and how does the bottom of your truck look so new!
Have you looked at their newer kits?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
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From: Parkesburg PA
You definitely have bind. Now you might not be able to feel it, especially if you have the air springs inflated. If your rear suspension doesn't move very much, you will not notice it. Even if it is binding you still may not notice it. But there is no way the rear spring can work as it was designed by having it tied to the frame like that.