OK thanks. I wasn't seeing the prices until I downloaded the repair form. I noticed they do overhead console computer repairs too. Might as well send that in too

 

Thanks so much for all the referrals, guys! Thanks, also, Powerlines, for letting us know that we should have put pricing out there a bit more. We've taken care of that now.


We look forward to taking great care of you!


If you are looking for a reason to love your 6.0 again, check out the PHP Tunes we offer!

 

I did find that I had a battery that was on its way to the grave. That replaced now I ran all the tests again and got the same results. The alternator appears to be working fine and all voltages at the batteries check out ok. My only issue that remains is that the FICM power drops to around 20 - 25 volts when the key is first turned on. I had no idea that the FICM also heated the injectors when you first power on although it does make perfect sense now that I realize it. Also noticed this evening when running some tests that after cycling the power a few times to run the various tests the truck fired right up with very little cranking even though it is only 10 degrees out right now. Starting the normal way even at 50 degrees has been tougher than it was tonight. But again the voltage is dropping quite a bit even after it is warmed up some ( Below 40v ). Now on to more questions which I will post in a different thread.

 

I have a no start issue. SGII would indicate about 35 to 40 volts with KOEO and then slowly drop to battery voltage. So I sent the FICM to Ed Stefan and he replied that the FICM checked good. I still had him do the premium upgrade and the Atlas 80 tune while he had it. Put it back in yesterday and still the same thing. No start. Ed and I had talked about the FICM power relay but I did not change before I installed the FICM. So after I got the same voltage drop as before, I pulled the 75 amp FICM power relay and took it apart. Very easy to do but you will need a new one because you destroy the contact mechanism to see how bad the contacts are pitted. Ford part # is F80B-14B192-AA. The contacts were pitted real bad. About 5% of the contact surface was actually making contact. That would explain why the voltage would decrease. As the current increased through the very small constant contact point resistance, the voltage will decrease. With that relay I would never see a constant 48 VDC. In other words, not enough good contact area to carry the required FICM current, which I suspect is 30 to 40 amps normally. I'm getting a new relay today. If it works, I'll post a "FICM Lesson Learned".

Ed

 

I had similar situation, watching my FLV and FMP would show upon key on 12/48 then 9/36 then 6/24 then 3/12 and finally 0/0 I would cycle the key off/on and eventually voltages would stay "on" and I could start..

I had one instance on the highway where the engine stumbled and I observed the voltages drop and got/installed that FICM relay and my 6L has been fine ever since.

A sustained voltage below 48 would most likely be the FICM itself, but to have the voltages dropping as DSMMH and I did would mostly likely be that $35 relay..

 

Glad to hear the relay fixed your similar problem. Gives me confidence that when I get the relay today, I will be a "full up round" again.

Ed

 

My dealer wanted to see the relay part # to get me the correct replacement, there are apparently more than 1 version (the -AA is what I had IIRC)

 

Hi Ed - I'm glad to have some confirmation that the relay was as bad off as I thought it well might be. We actually recommend replacing them every 100k as preventative maintenance. It's available on our new site for $34.98 at OEM FICM Relay F8OZ-14N089-AA.

People are understandably probably thinking we're trying to sell them some blinker fluid when we mention the relay, but it really is a big deal. That relay's failure has sadly left many a person on the side of the road.

It's a mechanical switch that quietly does the job day after day. It's pretty well forgotten about.

Let us know how it goes!