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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #16  
Bluegrass 7's Avatar
Bluegrass 7
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Hi Allen,
I have the patients if you will change the way you go about diagnostics of the issues first, then the repairs second..
Try to understand I have to use what you are relating as a basis for a response trying to help.
If your not accurate I can't reply with the most correct help.
.
Now your bringing in other issues with the engine temperature gauge and adding the EGR system and PCV to all this.
I can't help you under these conditions. Only one at a time unless they are 'related'.
I advise you not to change parts just to see if it fixes anything.
That is not the way to go about it plus it spends money and work you may not need to do.
Only service for the codes.
So far you have no EGR system codes unless you did not including all info.
So leave the EGR valve alone.
When you go into other parts, you increase the probability of creating more trouble that just increases the confusion factor.
We need to start all over again from the beginning with the codes, then work on the codes only.
Without basic knowledge this will be very difficult to provide any meaningful help to you.
I would suggest you get a copy of the Haynes manual for Ford trucks 1997 to 2002 from the auto parts store so you have some reference material to guide you.
You are trying to work on a computer controlled engine so there is no room for guessing or old time thinking.
It is doubly difficult to help on a vehicle you bought that already has issues we both don't know about.
This why the problems need to be sorted out one at a time or you never get to a satisfactory end point.
Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #17  
Allan Paulley Sr.'s Avatar
Allan Paulley Sr.
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bad idle

truck runs fine now that i put the rubber boot thing back in maf. check engine light comes on still. checked it again and saying the front 02 sensors (p0136 p0141) i didn't change anything other then 02 sensors on front. and cleaned my pcv valve. the other parts i did have already before i got all the codes didn't have a scanner.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 10:43 PM
  #18  
Bluegrass 7's Avatar
Bluegrass 7
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Joined: Sep 2006
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Good to hear of your progress.
Please note:
The codes 136 and 141 are ....not..... for the front sensors.
This is one reason what you changed did not help.
.
The codes 136/141 are for the rear sensors located in the rear cats.
The codes tell you the HEATER circuits are open for both sensors.
Do not change them as it will not help.
Get under and look at the plugs and the wiring to see if they are plugged in, loose or the wiring is open or broken in the insulation.
You can test for 12 volts at the plugs for these leads with the key in the RUN position.
Be sure you get the right pair out of the 4 leads on the plug.
If you see 12 volts on the plug, note the leads they are in the plug prongs.

.
The reason there are heaters built into these sensors is to help them come up to temperature much faster as the sensor part needs to run very hot to do their job.

The motor will run ok with this issue but you will have the CEL light on all the time from the fault.
If these are all the codes you have, your nearly all fixed and just need to find the remaning sensor heater faults that are 'common to both' so you likely will find a wiring issue affecting both at some location.
Good luck and Happy New Year.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 07:27 AM
  #19  
Allan Paulley Sr.'s Avatar
Allan Paulley Sr.
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bad idle

ok ty. will check them next chance i get. i don't like that the cel light is on for any reason. yes those are the only codes. there are a few leaks in the one side of the exhaust by the cat would that cause the issue. didn't get cash yet to fix exhaust system
 
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