Manifold stud options?
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
Manifold stud options?
Greetings all.
I am getting ready to rebuild one of my 300's and I have heard that switching to studs instead of bolts will save me some hassle and frustration in the future.
I am looking for opinions and options for what to use.
Also is it worth buying an entire bolt kit for the rebuild or is that just not neccessary?
What has been suggested already is either complete bolt kit
Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Product Detail
or
Dorman 7/16-14 studs in sets of four P/N 03135
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...view/make/ford
when using the studs will I need to pull the thick washer from the stock bolts to use on the studs?
Thanks,
Greg M
I am getting ready to rebuild one of my 300's and I have heard that switching to studs instead of bolts will save me some hassle and frustration in the future.
I am looking for opinions and options for what to use.
Also is it worth buying an entire bolt kit for the rebuild or is that just not neccessary?
What has been suggested already is either complete bolt kit
Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Product Detail
or
Dorman 7/16-14 studs in sets of four P/N 03135
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...view/make/ford
when using the studs will I need to pull the thick washer from the stock bolts to use on the studs?
Thanks,
Greg M
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
Reuse your original crush washers. They provide a bit of springiness to the clamping joint and are reusable. Ford wants $10 each for new ones and there are 13 total, which can get needlessly expensive. It's been suggested to chamfer the edges so that they don't dig into an aluminum manifold.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,168
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
An alternative is studs from Hillco Fasteners dot com. I use grade 8, 2" or 2 1/4", 3/8", coarse into the head, fine threads outside. Use the oem washers. If using headers you'll need to grind 1/16 off half each washer due to a diff. in flange thickness. Use Mr. Gasket #260 gasket, copper anti-seize on studs into the head, and crimp nuts. Torque 1/2 of what the book says, from center out, in spiral, either clockwise or counter, then go back and repeat to full torque. Heat to running temp, usually long enough to break in the cam, then cool to touch fully, and retorque. Repeat one more time and forget about it. Mine has lasted 5 years and counting.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
do you recommend the Mr. Gasket over Fel-Pro? I already have a complete gasket set from Fel-Pro with the addition of the single piece oil pan gasket. I can go either way especially if the Mr. Gasket is better.
Also what is the purpose of the fine outside threads on the studs?
I have been spraying down the current bolts for about a week now. Gave each a 1/4 turn and sprayed again this evening. I believe they will come out will little issue, thankfully.
Also what is the purpose of the fine outside threads on the studs?
I have been spraying down the current bolts for about a week now. Gave each a 1/4 turn and sprayed again this evening. I believe they will come out will little issue, thankfully.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
OK, I need to order the studs and I am having issues knowing exactly what to order.
When I search for stud for the 4.9 it gives me 7/16 x 14 studs. The holes in the head are 3/8 x 16. I also am not sure on the proper lengths to order if going through Home - Hillco Fastener Warehouse
I am running the stock 1v intake and the log type stock exhaust manifold. will studs fit in every spot will I need to use a stock bolt or two?
Also, should I use a lock washer or locking nut on the factory spacer?
Thanks for any help and advice. If you have specifics on stud size and lengths please share.
This is what I am considering Stud-38-24x2-38-16x58-2-OAL http://hillcofasteners.com/prod/Grad...__AV09686.aspx
and
Grade C Stover Lock Nut Clear Zinc (All Steel) - 3/8-24
http://hillcofasteners.com/prod/Grad..._838024GC.aspx
When I search for stud for the 4.9 it gives me 7/16 x 14 studs. The holes in the head are 3/8 x 16. I also am not sure on the proper lengths to order if going through Home - Hillco Fastener Warehouse
I am running the stock 1v intake and the log type stock exhaust manifold. will studs fit in every spot will I need to use a stock bolt or two?
Also, should I use a lock washer or locking nut on the factory spacer?
Thanks for any help and advice. If you have specifics on stud size and lengths please share.
This is what I am considering Stud-38-24x2-38-16x58-2-OAL http://hillcofasteners.com/prod/Grad...__AV09686.aspx
and
Grade C Stover Lock Nut Clear Zinc (All Steel) - 3/8-24
http://hillcofasteners.com/prod/Grad..._838024GC.aspx
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,168
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
Those studs and nuts should be fine. Use the oem think washer/spacer with them. Use Mr. Gasket #260. Coat coarse threads with copper anti seize compound, double nut them, cinching the nuts together, then tighten. You'll need to heat/cool, then retorque to spec, following book sequence (I usually begin in center and spiral out.)
The first torque I do to half final torque, then come back and torque to final. You'll have to do the heat/cool thing twice, retorquing each time, then forget about it. All studs, no bolts.
I think I'd run a tap through the holes to clean, and spray out with something like carb cleaner.
The first torque I do to half final torque, then come back and torque to final. You'll have to do the heat/cool thing twice, retorquing each time, then forget about it. All studs, no bolts.
I think I'd run a tap through the holes to clean, and spray out with something like carb cleaner.
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Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
Great, thanks for the info and tip on the copper anti seize. I was just going to use the standard silver. I will grab some copper type
I plan to run a tap through all the holes on the head and block before assembly. I find it makes things go together a lot smoother.
I plan to run a tap through all the holes on the head and block before assembly. I find it makes things go together a lot smoother.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 458
Likes: 1
Generally, course threads are preferred in cast iron, or aluminum. The fine threads on the exposed end should make the nut less likely to back off. I use Loctite on the course threads, a tiny dab of anti-seize on the fine threads. I don't know why Grade 8 would be wanted here; it's stronger, but more brittle and notch-sensitive.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,168
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
Ahh, anti-seize on the coarse threads into the head. I keep the fine threads dry. To each their own. But the anti-seize is to keep the studs removable.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
I used non-grade 8 on mine and had a few snap within a minute or two of installation. It's been grade-8 ever since and been great for years.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,168
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
Lol. Oh, AB, you just stepped on rebuttals. Yes, with all automotive work I would rather use something 400X stronger than what I need instead of something 2% weaker than what I need.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 544
Likes: 6
From: Kalispell, MT
i have also seen a couple folks use rocker arm pivot ***** flipped around, flat face towards block at washers as well. might be something to use if you have some around, and no source for the stocker thick washers.