Gasket question
In short: what gaskets are needed to replace the intake manifold with an Edelbrock Performer 400?
Also, I wouldn't use the neoprene end gaskets. That's where I do use RTV. Build up a 1/4" tall bead across the dam on either end, making sure there are no gaps, and lay the turkey pan in. Then build up a bead on top of the pan above the dam and, with the gaskets in, lay the manifold in. Install at least the corner bolts and snug them down enough to get the RTV to squeeze out all of the way across, but do not tighten them until the next day to allow the RTV to set up. The next day tighten all the bolts down in the proper order, but do it in at least two steps with the first step being half torque.
Now, here's where I show my lack of memory. If the mounting bolts point straight up, and some engine's bolts don't, I install some studs in the corner holes before you start to install the manifold or turkey pan. That ensures the things align properly. And if you don't have studs just make some by cutting the heads off of some longer bolts.
Alternatively, one can forego the turkey pan and use unique gaskets, one per side (along with the two end things which, again, are not used) as is depicted on that Amazon page.
For my Performer 400 installation, I used the latter - unique strips and no turkey pan. But I also used a bit of, um, what's that stuff called... it's a Permatex product... High Tack, that's it! I used a bit of that on the sides, and black RTV to form the front/rear gaskets.
I forget the exact reasons why - and I haven't taken my installation apart to see how it's doing - but I now sometimes wish I had done the turkey pan... I think it was something about oil cooking onto the bottom of the intake but don't remember for certain....
And, the reason for the turkey pan is to keep oil from hitting the exhaust crossover and burning. Also, to keep hot oil from heating the bottom of the intake and, therefore, the incoming air/fuel charge.











