2015 BS thread. Bring it!
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Omaha/Elkhorn, NE
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 63,179
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From: Great Falls, Montana
Kinda like a cell going bad in a battery....it messes up the other cells and the battery as a whole.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 63,179
Likes: 6,644
From: Great Falls, Montana
Good morning to all You Fine Oregon (and visiting) Patriots.........
Chicken coop done .......
Now back to my Garage Project.......wish a few of you fine folks were here to help.....we would have this done in a couple of days .........
I have to hang some 5/8" fire code sheetrock today....all by myself......I hope I live.....That chit is HEAVY....
Chicken coop done .......
Now back to my Garage Project.......wish a few of you fine folks were here to help.....we would have this done in a couple of days .........
I have to hang some 5/8" fire code sheetrock today....all by myself......I hope I live.....That chit is HEAVY....
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 63,179
Likes: 6,644
From: Great Falls, Montana
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 18,305
Likes: 9,068
From: Sheridan / Gilchrist
It is a battery "equalization" effect. One battery does equalize to the other. With the batteries on warranty, Ford won't change both, just the one that tests bad. What the local shop does though is take them in and run each of them through some type of load / charge test. Takes over an hour to get done. Then they let me know if the good battery is in the same range or if I should pay to get it changed. So far, the two times this has happened, the remaining battery was in the "it shouldn't make a difference" range. I don't know what will happen when one battery is 4 years old and the other is 3 years old...........if we ever get to that point.
I'm not sure batteries are the problem this time, as both of them were tested just 3 weeks ago, and passed as "new" and the one was changed just a couple of months ago, but with the tools and test equipment I have here, combined with the deteriorating grey vegetable material between my ears that's all I can think of at the moment.
Alternator, engine on no load, 13.9 to 14.1 Volts depending on RPM. Headlights, A/C on high with high fan, GPS, Stereo and anything else electrical I can think of is 13.2 to 13.5 Volts as read through the OBD port.
I'm not sure batteries are the problem this time, as both of them were tested just 3 weeks ago, and passed as "new" and the one was changed just a couple of months ago, but with the tools and test equipment I have here, combined with the deteriorating grey vegetable material between my ears that's all I can think of at the moment.
Alternator, engine on no load, 13.9 to 14.1 Volts depending on RPM. Headlights, A/C on high with high fan, GPS, Stereo and anything else electrical I can think of is 13.2 to 13.5 Volts as read through the OBD port.
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 208,490
Likes: 410
From: Omaha/Elkhorn, NE
It is a battery "equalization" effect. One battery does equalize to the other. With the batteries on warranty, Ford won't change both, just the one that tests bad. What the local shop does though is take them in and run each of them through some type of load / charge test. Takes over an hour to get done. Then they let me know if the good battery is in the same range or if I should pay to get it changed. So far, the two times this has happened, the remaining battery was in the "it shouldn't make a difference" range. I don't know what will happen when one battery is 4 years old and the other is 3 years old...........if we ever get to that point.
I'm not sure batteries are the problem this time, as both of them were tested just 3 weeks ago, and passed as "new" and the one was changed just a couple of months ago, but with the tools and test equipment I have here, combined with the deteriorating grey vegetable material between my ears that's all I can think of at the moment.
Alternator, engine on no load, 13.9 to 14.1 Volts depending on RPM. Headlights, A/C on high with high fan, GPS, Stereo and anything else electrical I can think of is 13.2 to 13.5 Volts as read through the OBD port.
I'm not sure batteries are the problem this time, as both of them were tested just 3 weeks ago, and passed as "new" and the one was changed just a couple of months ago, but with the tools and test equipment I have here, combined with the deteriorating grey vegetable material between my ears that's all I can think of at the moment.
Alternator, engine on no load, 13.9 to 14.1 Volts depending on RPM. Headlights, A/C on high with high fan, GPS, Stereo and anything else electrical I can think of is 13.2 to 13.5 Volts as read through the OBD port.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 18,305
Likes: 9,068
From: Sheridan / Gilchrist
Good evening Oregon and everyone everywhere else. Just a quick flyby. Been goofing off too much today and gotten behind. Spent to much time BS'n at the museum when I picked up some guns and then Mom decided at the very last second that we had to go to a real to life Monastery for a funeral / memorial service and I was driving.