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ID and Test Heater?

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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 11:15 AM
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ID and Test Heater?

So I bought a 49 F2 this year for parts I needed on my F1. One thing I took was this heater and I'm wondering if anyone has seen one like it. There are no markings on it and I assume it's a generic/universal brand heater. As much as I'd like a Ford one, the price is right on this as long as it works. How can I bench test it? The truck was still 6v pos ground when I bought it, so I assume the heater is as well. I do have a 6v battery I can use, but before I hooked anything up I wanted to get some advice so I don't destroy anything. I assume I need some sort of ground wire to test it the way it is, but just not sure where/how to hook it up. Thanks for your help.


I believe this is how you would see it mounted under the dash




I believe this is the top to the defrost (would have to run some sort of splitter to feed both vents




Side/floor heat




Floor heat








Power lead in hand and notice grounding wire on corner straight up from my thumb
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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I don't know what that heater is but, I usually use my battery charger to test with since it has both 12 and 6 volt settings. I have two heaters, one with the 3 doors and one with Ford in block letters on the front. I'm running 12 volts with a resister and my heater fan is running backward, haven't had a chance to sort that one out yet.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Skalywag
I don't know what that heater is but, I usually use my battery charger to test with since it has both 12 and 6 volt settings. I have two heaters, one with the 3 doors and one with Ford in block letters on the front. I'm running 12 volts with a resister and my heater fan is running backward, haven't had a chance to sort that one out yet.
You should be able to just reverse the polarity to get it to run straight. The original was a positive ground, and I'm assuming you've gone to a neg. Ground, which would just mean the electricity is flowing through the other way.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fladoodle
You should be able to just reverse the polarity to get it to run straight. The original was a positive ground, and I'm assuming you've gone to a neg. Ground, which would just mean the electricity is flowing through the other way.
That is what I'm going to do when I get a chance. As long as the case isn't used for the ground. It still works, but its blows hot air out the intake whichi is fine, except I get no defrost that way. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:11 PM
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There were a few places that made aftermarket heaters for the old truck since many were ordered without.

Firestone made them, usually, at least on the few I've had, there is a fancy "F" somewhere on the front. Montgomery Wards also offered a lot of aftermarket parts including car heaters.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:30 PM
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Thanks for the input fellas! I was able to get it to turn using the 6v battery and grounding from the case to the battery. Here's where it stands now

Tore it apart so I could inspect/refurbish it




Buggered it up a bit trying to get it apart,but I got that part figured out




The brushes and everything look ok




But the reason I cracked the case was to replace these wires that were shorting on each other




Now I can't get the windings out to get to the wires so I can replace them




It's a shame since it still works! I'll take it in to town and see if I can get a 12v replacement. It's 25 miles to town and we just had freezing rain overnight that turned to snow so I may wait a day. Happy New Year!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bobj49f2
There were a few places that made aftermarket heaters for the old truck since many were ordered without.

Firestone made them, usually, at least on the few I've had, there is a fancy "F" somewhere on the front. Montgomery Wards also offered a lot of aftermarket parts including car heaters.
I wish mine had some kind of markings. Nothing! But the motor said Redmond on it, that's it. Oh well, I still think it's a cool piece.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Be sure to pressure and flow check that heater core. It appears like it may have leaked at one time.
So far as manufacturers of heater, I would venture there were dozens of different heater manufacturers, some of which put their name or identifying marks and some that did not. Arvin, Wizard, Allstate (Sears), Montgomery Ward, Southwind, Stewart Warner, and Joe, The Motorist's Friend sold one. Right now that is all I can think of but there were more.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch
Be sure to pressure and flow check that heater core. It appears like it may have leaked at one time.
So far as manufacturers of heater, I would venture there were dozens of different heater manufacturers, some of which put their name or identifying marks and some that did not. Arvin, Wizard, Allstate (Sears), Montgomery Ward, Southwind, Stewart Warner, and Joe, The Motorist's Friend sold one. Right now that is all I can think of but there were more.
That was my next step, although I'm not sure how I'll get pressure into it..... I was going to clean it all out and then let water sit in it at the very least and see if it drains out. Do you have a suggestion for pressure testing? Thanks Ray
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 06:26 PM
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Allowing water to sit in the radiator may or may not show a leak. Dig out an old unloved inner tube. Cap one outlet with a piece of inner tube and hose clamp. Cut the part of the inner tube with the valve several inches larger than the valve stem and clamp it around the other outlet. Pressurize lightly, just a couple lbs pressure. The rubber of the inner tube will expand slightly, indicating enough pressure. Spray soapy water around the core to detect leaks. So far as flow testing, water should flow freely through the core. I doubt if a radiator shop would charge much to clean and verify condition.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Well I did something similar except with duct tape instead of a tube. It showed several leaks......... so that's a bummer because I really like the piece, but by the time I replace the motor and get the core fixed it might not be worth it. I'll hopefully run into town and see who's open tomorrow. If I do scrap the project I can send someone part or all of it for the price of shipping. Here's what it looks like now and let me know if any of it strikes your fancy.
 
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