I have had similar problem with 1997 F-150. Dealer replaced driveline yoke at cost of $361.24. Did I get screwed? Would lubrication as discussed above have solved this (37K miles)?

P.S. This is a great site which I found because my automatic headlights stayed on in daylight. Cause: Dealer service card which normally hangs on mirror layed on dash over photocell grill!

 

The slipyoke lube issue _could_ have been a simple fix for you but from what Ive seen it seems to be more isolated to Explorers. I guess you'll never know....

 

I had a customer once complain of a thump noise when stopping. Took the car on a road test and sure enough a loud thump when stopping you could feel in the floor pan. Looked in the trunk and found a bowling ball rolling around loose... LOL!

 

note on the radius arm bushings...plan out 10 hours if doing it yourself, i usedf 9 fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels for a dremel tool to get the rivets off then dropping the bracket took two floor jacks and 4 jackstands. no fun but i saved about 400$

 

Ok guys I need help on this one. Like Phantom2, I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD 4.0 SOHC V6. My problem is like the one Phantom2 is experiencing. When I come to a stop I feel a thump or jerk on the truck right about when the truck is almost at the end of the stop. The quicker the stop the stronger the thump / jerk. Its like the truck or transmission is trying to lurch forward and the brakes are keeping it back. It is very similar to feeling that someone has tapped my back bumper right before I come to a stop.

The only difference is that I usually do not feel the thump until after the truck has warmed up sufficently (about after 10 miles of city driving). Do you all think this is the slip yoke needing to be lubricated or could this be a transmission issue? I have 43,000 miles on my explorer and have yet to lubricate the slip yoke.

Any help you could give me would be appreciated.....

 

Its either going to be the slip yoke or the torsion bar pads. Take it to the dealer and have them do both.

 

Reberhardt..I thought you'd be interested.Had my Explorer back to the dealer 3 times to try and fix the thumping when I stopped.Each time I went I brought a copy of this thread to show the service manager.Each time he told me that "no way" could a slip yoke cause this problem and each time gave me some "bull****" story and told me don't believe everything you hear on the internet.Finally I asked some neighbors for the name of a good mechanic close to home.I brought the vehicle to him and he also told me "no way" slipyoke problem,but if I wanted it greased he would do it.He had a needle-like adapter for his grease gun which allowed him to pierce the rubber boot and inject it without even having to take anything apart.Guess what?Problem solved,case closed.I just wanted to thank you and everyone who took the time to help me.

 

Glad to hear that took care of it. It will need to be done every 10K miles or so. Do you know what kind of lube he used? Im also interested in hearing more about the needle adapter so you dont have to take it apart....

 

Sorry..I don't really know what kind of grease he used.I just don't see where the grease goes to since it's a sealed boot and why it has to be done so often.At least I know what to do next time.Thanks again guys...

 

In my sport 99 i have same noise but only when i go from the light! and i feel in left side.

Could it be same cause?

 

Could be driveshaft, torsion bar pads or ball joints.

 

I had the same problem with my '91 explorer. I fixed it by trading it in, haha (that wasnt the only problem)

 

I will add to this. It could also be the transfer case. I had some clunking on acceleration from a light. The transfer case chain was so stretched that it was slipping on the sprockets. Clunk...Clunk...

If you have some miles on it this could be the problem. My 98 Mountaineer has 130K miles and I tow. Not something you want to dive in and do unless it is a last resort. All other things mentioned are much easier to correct yourself vs rebuilding the transfer case.

Good Luck,
DaveW

 

YOU KNOW IF THEY WANTED YOU TO TAKE IT OFF THEY WOULDNT HAVE RIVETTED THEM FOLLOW THE PROPER STEPS IN THE SERVICE MANUAL ANYONE CUTTING RIVETS OFF THERE TRUCK IS AN IDIOT WHY NOT NOTCH THE FRAME WHILE YOUR DOWN THERE DUHHHHH

 

you have to take the rivets out, if you are doing any sort of lift....
i have heard around and on TRUCKSTV that the easiest way to get the rivets out is to air chisel off the heads and then air punch to knock them out.