The problem with the old iron is everything needs attention - either cleaning, adjustment, replacement, lubrication, substitution, etc. No way around it.

The brakes are a good example. Replace or rebuild M/C, but a hose or wheel cylinder may well let go under increased pressure or new shoes. The lines are rusty by now and not to be trusted. The drums may have been turned to excess, or cracked. The adjusters are rusty, the shoes worn out, the return springs need replaced, the backing plate pads excessively worn.. So long as you're in there, better replace all the wheel bearings, and hey lookie here those kingpins are shot, and the tie rods, and that drag link looks really bad and the springs are shot.. See where I'm goin with that.

 

Not dis-agreeing with da picker, but you can easily put $10,000.00 + in an ol truck

Why don't you go slow, get it road worthy, drive it a bit, let it speak to you while you develop a plan.


John

 

Sage advice x2

 

Ok so maybe a full restoration maybe too big of an undertaking, but I would like to get her street legal. I need a stepping off point, like knowing how to determine if the eng is locked up, besides hearing a "click click" when I try to turn it over. If she is locked up, where do I proceed from there before I commit to a full tear down. I've seen plenty of Youtube videos of ppl doing various things to unlock an eng but I'm polling the Ford experts. I understand there is obvious points that I need to hit, like tires, and brakes, but I want to know the points that a new guy might not think of or know. She has been sitting since 2007 so I know when I get her going, I need to keep her above 2000 RPMs for at least 20 min.

 

That's a good plan for a rebuild, new cam, etc. I wouldn't worry about the 2000 rpm deal. Put a breaker bar and socket on the damper bolt and see if it will turn over (clockwise).

A set of manuals as you are undoubtedly aware, are essential. I like paper copies myself but they are available on CD and probably .pdf and I don't know what all. Motors Manuals are good too.

You'll need basic hand tools and a good grease gun, DVOM, vacuum gauge, tach, timing light, etc.

 

Fill the master cylinder, and let it sit. Check it in few days to see if it has lost any. You will need to fix that before attempting to drive the truck

I would plan on a complete brake inspection before driving it as well. Brakes are not terribly complicated, but can be intimidating the first time you tear into them.

I would make sure the engine has oil, but don't worry at this time of the quality. Same with the transmission and the rear axle. They can be dealt with later.
I would check the gas tank to make sure it isn't clogged with rust. If it looks OK, then add some fresh gas. Who knows, it might start! These trucks are very durable.

The clicking will be caused most likely by one of these:
1. Low battery
2. Bad starter solenoid
3. Bad starter - or locked up motor.
Less likely is a bad ground between the engine and frame.
If the motor turns over at least one revolution by hand (with a breaker bar and socket) as mentioned earlier, have someone use the key to attempt to turn the engine over while you check the solenoid and starter.
Make sure you have a good, fully charged battery.
If the solenoid clicks, it is probably the starter. Watch the starter to see if it jerks or moves.
Additionally, check for 12V at the other side of the starter solenoid with the key engaged. Be sure to disconnect the cable to the starter before leaving the key at START for more than a few seconds.
If the starter is clicking, then have it tested at a local box auto parts store.

As mentioned earlier, a set of manuals, even a Chiltons to start will be a great addition to you toolbox. The time spent reading them is an investment in your truck.

Hope this helps to start.

John - Banjo -

 

Definitely welcome to FTE, this forum is awesome and everyone here really helps with the management of the addiction of a slick truck......thanks for serving our country!

Is the truck still in Missouri? I am from/in SW Missouri. The truck looks really sweet.

I am restoring a 1966 Ford F100 SWB 4WD 352 NP-435. m.

 

I like that truck a lot just like it is. I suggest you make it run, make it safe, and enjoy it!
Eric

 

Shane, one of the first things I would do, since you have no brakes is to replace the single reservoir with a dual reservoir master brake cylinder. This is not hard to do as I did it on my 1962 Ford F100, The reason you want to do this is for 2 reasons. 1) The main reason is it is safer because if you break an brake line, you only lose half your brakes, either the front or the back giving you some stopping power. 2) then you can also tell if your having problems with the front or the rear brakes. Your can replace your single reservoir master cylinder with that dual reservoir cylinder from a 68 Mustang, which you can get at Autozone or a local auto parts cheap. Then all you have to do is run a brake line where the tee connects to your master cylinder. There are some threads on this on this forum. If you need pictures or where to get parts please feel free to ask. The hardest part is finding the connector for the brake light switch, where can be bought at NAPA auto parts.

 

I'm from Lebanon, Mo and she is right here on Rt 66. Wanna make her feel right at home. I wanna getting going and I think tomorrow I'll go visit her and take a socket set and try to hand crank her and look at the levels. I'm hoping and crossing my fingers at the reservoir is empty because a hose has dry rotted and it will be a simple fix. For safety reasons I understand the benefits of a dual reservoir but it strays away from the original look, so that leaves me kinda torn but I'm also looking to possibly doing a conversion job on the brakes.

 

What you'll find is there really isn't any halfway when it applies to brake service on a 50 year old pickup. A dual master cylinder by itself is half-assed if 50 year old hard lines and hoses are still installed. New shoes and drums will likely blow an old cylinder.

And the particular type of master cylinder you choose is dependent on whether you stick with the drum/drum system or convert to a front disc. At this point everything needs renewed or replaced anyway.

Redid the entire brake system lock, stock, and barrel stem to stern and it cost a lot more than I thought it would. Formulate a plan and stick with it to avoid duplication of effort or replacing new parts.

 

I know you said you're looking to stay stock with your configuration, and the dual master cylinder is a good safety idea - something to think about - and so are front disc brakes - in which case you'd need a different dual master cylinder than the one used with drum brakes. Just to muddy the water . . . Best to make a plan before you start spending money. Also, it's easier to rotate the engine by hand if you dump the compression first - as in loosen or remove the spark plugs. Hope it'll turn over for you.

 

Silly question, what speed can this truck handle? I know at 1965 the speed limit was not 70 on major highways so I don't wanna get my truck back up and running and then take her out on the hwy and blow her up trying to maintain 70 mph for an extended period of time.

 

I Ran my truck at 60MPH for approximately 10 hours. Then 1 hour of 70mph with no problem by im also running an I6. So that being said, depends on how much Gas you want to use, and what rear end you have really. Plus the radiator setup would factor in as well

 

My 62 (and a 64 I had years ago) are both uncomfortable above 60 or so. (Each was equipped with a 292/T-98 4 speed and fairly high ratio rearends.) Not saying they wouldn't go faster, but above that they ran hotter and louder than I liked.

If you've got the info from the warranty plate, go ahead and post it. Things may have been swapped out over the years, but if the drivetrain is still stock, someone can decode it and you'll have a better idea of what the truck can do.

~Steve