Starter question
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 49
Starter question
My daughter came home from school and last week she called me from a parking lot and said the truck would not start. 1975 ford f100 302 automatic. I tested the post from the solenoid to the starter. I got a 0 reading. I then disconnected the starter and with the key in start, I had 12. something. I took the starter to be tested and it was bad so I replaced it. Autozone. It ran fine for a few days. Today she went to start it and no go. It seems like it wants to spin, but is very slow. I put a power pack on it and still nothing. I check the voltage the the positive post to the starter but was unable to get a reading as it is digital and it is all over the board. I did notice that both the positive posts are hot in temperature. Should I take the wire off the starter and check it again? Or should I be looking at something else?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
'Sounds like corroded/dirty battery posts, bad cables, or a bad ground.
Btw, verify that your truck has the bonding (grounding) strap between the cab and the engine. All sorts of weird electrical problems can occur without it.
Btw, verify that your truck has the bonding (grounding) strap between the cab and the engine. All sorts of weird electrical problems can occur without it.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
It wouldn't hurt to have the battery checked too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yep. If the cables are hot that generally means loose, or corroded connections. On a 73 just replace them being 40 years old and wire-wizz or file away any paint or corrosion at the block and frame away to clean down to bare shiny metal. There's three main ground cables or straps, maybe $20 total.
The older trucks always have corrosion problems. Even new trucks just a few years old. It pays to take an afternoon going over all the connections. On restored trucks the problem isn't corrosion but everything gets painted over and can cause a lot of headscratching.
The older trucks always have corrosion problems. Even new trucks just a few years old. It pays to take an afternoon going over all the connections. On restored trucks the problem isn't corrosion but everything gets painted over and can cause a lot of headscratching.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Foresthill, CA
It is most likely a defective new starter since it worked fine for a couple of days then quit. Had it happen to me a few months ago. Auto part stores seem to sell a lot of junk lately. I would think you checked, cleaned and tightened all of the electrical connections during the first starter troubleshoot/replacement.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2012
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Likes: 49
Thanks guys for the help. I started cleaning terminals last week before I bought a new starter. I will recheck them tomorrow and also get the starter tested.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Use your voltmeter across the negative post and starter case to measure voltage drop during cranking. Also test positive side cable at starter post and battery. Should be no more than a couple tenths of a volt. The current is obviously being soaked either by cables/connections, or a bum starter. Put the battery on a slow amp charge overnight since it's been thrashed pretty hard.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2012
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Likes: 49
So far I brought the one week old starter back to Auto Zone and had it tested. It failed. They do not have a replacement starter. I have called around an nobody has one. They have all ordered one for me and I will take the first that arrives. I want the better model. I have called Auto Zone, Advance and CAP. CAPs better one is 50.00 wheras the other two have "better ones" at 95.00. Ho could there be such a difference in the "better one" price? Any thoughts?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Here is what it takes to rebuild a starter...
Scroll through the slide show for the play-by-play...Mump 0912 01 O+1965 Ford Mustang Starter+starter - Photo 31293063 - 1965 Ford Mustang Starter Rebuilt - Mustang Monthly Magazine
Alternatively, it's YouTube to the rescue:
Part 1:
Part 2:
Here's the $16 kit you should order:
Scroll through the slide show for the play-by-play...Mump 0912 01 O+1965 Ford Mustang Starter+starter - Photo 31293063 - 1965 Ford Mustang Starter Rebuilt - Mustang Monthly Magazine
Alternatively, it's YouTube to the rescue:
Part 1:
Here's the $16 kit you should order:
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Starters and alternators are really a crapshoot coming out of some of the parts jobbers. Coat of paint and call it good.
It's worth it just to avoid the aggravation by building up old cores as spares, keep on your own shelf and better than just about anything short of OEM.
It's worth it just to avoid the aggravation by building up old cores as spares, keep on your own shelf and better than just about anything short of OEM.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 4
From: Northern and Southern Cal
I agree with you guys assessment of the rebuilders these days. Especially, A Cardone.
Have a feeling that most throw in new gaskets /o rings and clean them up then send them out.
I would much rather pay a local rebuilder (in other words....having a guy) to rebuild MY starter/alt/whatever.
Have bought way to much garbage lately.
Good luck with your starter.
Have a feeling that most throw in new gaskets /o rings and clean them up then send them out.
I would much rather pay a local rebuilder (in other words....having a guy) to rebuild MY starter/alt/whatever.
Have bought way to much garbage lately.
Good luck with your starter.