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Truck was having issues starting, seemed to be battery. I replaced both batteries and fixed issue. Then alternator started to go...replaced that... then truck ran perfect for 2 months. Cool morning went to start and "click" "click"...starter went out. This was 2 weeks ago. I replaced starter w silonid and one terminal end that was corroded. After that seemed all issues where fixed.
I wake up this morning to travel and get the click again...i live in florida and it was 32° this morning...Truck ran fine yesterday, but it was also 20° warmer...pull starter and it's good, batteries load test was good also...
Any suggestions? Seems it's a never ending project...I just wanna have little concern when leaving that I can get where I'm going.
I've heard there could be an ficm issue, can this cause it?
Do you have any way of monitoring things like the FICM voltage, anything like a Scangauge II or some other device? That would help in troubleshooting. I am also sure someone else with much more knowledge will chime in soon.
Look on the passenger side near the heater fan motor and locate this connector. Coming back toward the front of the truck, it has a single wire inside the plastic sheathing that will be yellow with a blue stripe.
Squeeze the round connector like this to unlock it while twisting and pulling. It should unplug fairly easily.
There is a single pin inside the front half of the connector.
Touching this pin to the positive battery post SHOULD cause the starter to spin over and crank the engine. If you still have the factory battery terminals, this little bolt sticking up seems like it was made for this purpose. If it doesn't crank, there is an issue with the batteries, starter, or the electrical connections between them, or the engine is locked up due to mechanical failure or a cylinder filled with fuel or coolant. If the key is off it will only spin over, if the key is on it should start.
This shouldn't cause any significant sparking when you touch it to the battery and it shouldn't get hot while cranking. It won't hurt the truck and it won't hurt to drive it if you started it this way just be sure to reconnect it after it fires up.
If it does start like this you have more troubleshooting to do. Check the Tech folder/no start thread for possible causes.
Do you have any way of monitoring things like the FICM voltage, anything like a Scangauge II or some other device? That would help in troubleshooting. I am also sure someone else with much more knowledge will chime in soon.
I have a Diablo programmer but I am not sure if it monitors this. I will check. Thank you...hopefully i can fix it ...seems never ending
Look on the passenger side near the heater fan motor and locate this connector. Coming back toward the front of the truck, it has a single wire inside the plastic sheathing that will be yellow with a blue stripe.
Squeeze the round connector like this to unlock it while twisting and pulling. It should unplug fairly easily.
There is a single pin inside the front half of the connector.
Touching this pin to the positive battery post SHOULD cause the starter to spin over and crank the engine. If you still have the factory battery terminals, this little bolt sticking up seems like it was made for this purpose. If it doesn't crank, there is an issue with the batteries, starter, or the electrical connections between them, or the engine is locked up due to mechanical failure or a cylinder filled with fuel or coolant. If the key is off it will only spin over, if the key is on it should start.
This shouldn't cause any significant sparking when you touch it to the battery and it shouldn't get hot while cranking. It won't hurt the truck and it won't hurt to drive it if you started it this way just be sure to reconnect it after it fires up.
If it does start like this you have more troubleshooting to do. Check the Tech folder/no start thread for possible causes.
I will do this as soon as I return... ty so much. I need to find someone w this knowledge near my area... I'd pay to drop it off and let ya do it...so tired of chasing problems...
If you had a corroded cable you may want to check all of them and the
ground from the starter to the battery.
The test you want to do is called a Voltage Drop Test.
You should check all the main cables along with the one coming
from the alternator.
The FICM and batteries really don't like low voltage at all and a bad
cable is one way to get low voltage.
Here is the thing with a cable. It can "Look" good on the outside and
have all sorts of corrosion under the insulation and will reduce it
ability to carry current.
