The issue here is material strength in both tension and compression.
Thermoplastics just won't cut it.

High end devices that do Laser/Electron Beam sintering could, but then you need to find a way to get and keep the dust out of the cores when finishing the 'top' side.

 

Is there less opaque plastic available? Could things like tail lamps, side marker lights and turn signals be feasible? Also I know these trucks have plenty of little plastic bushings and sleeves all over the place, but Ford still produces them, so for now we should be okay with those.

Also the "F O R D" for the hoods of the 80-81s (not to mention dentsides).

 

Something with a finished appearance detail like this really needs to be molded.
The resolution isn't there yet with printers us mere mortals can access.

I do work with an architecture firm that is starting to use 3D printing for physical models of buildings.
Their printer has some crazy stage size like 24x36"!

But it is slow and expensive.
And the optimal print path becomes obscured when the head is blocked by tall segments already printed adjacent to another 'wall' or whatever.

With plastics it's best to lay it on over still warm material.
Keeping a box that big heated is like having an oven in your office.

I asked why they didn't just use it for figures and landscape, leaving planar sections to be cut from foamcore with a knife in their plotter.

THAT would make everything to scale and allow simple "insert tab A in slot B" kind of construction.

 

Brad - It sounds like you may have been around the printers. I've not, but have done a lot of reading. One of my worries is the finish. With resolution to .004", which is visible and can be detected with a fingernail, things won't be perfectly smooth. However, some materials are said to be provide a pretty smooth finish. Is that what you've seen?

 

Some prople use an acetone vapor 'booth ' to melt parts smooth.

 

Jim - Sorry. Somehow missed your post. So, you don't think the printers available to the consumer today would make something smooth enough to be used as the door lock? That's a major concern.

But I do understand what you mean about warm material as depositing new plastic on cold plastic won't get the bond needed for strength. And I can see that as being a problem with several tall objects close together.

 

So, there are little "nibs" that melt and smooth the surface in an acetone booth?

 

I meant to say current printers couldn't replicate the 'leather' grain of the latch housing pictured.

The warm solvent vapor causes the ridges to flow, because sharp edges get attacked from two sides.

 

Ahhh, so the printing leaves ridges where layers are slightly offset from each other due to the print head not coming back to exactly the same spot each time. And then the acetone smooths them by causing a bit of flow. Got it.

 

The head is accurate

Imagine building something up with beads of weld.
If this helps with the visual.

 

That's a good analogy. I can understand that. Thanks.

 

Well after verification from the Grand Poo-Bar of parts number identification, The 4" x 7" speaker grilles, located to the front of the window cranks were never, and are not available by themselves, Only replaceable if you can find the whole cloth insert.
More incentive for 3-D-ing.
Thanks Number Dummy for the info!

 

I think that's "Pooh Bear". Not sure what the "Pooh" part means, but I have heard him called a "bear".

So, do you have broken or otherwise unusable speaker grilles?

 

Poo-Bar ..... From the Flintstones, Oops, showing OUR age Gary!

 

Yes I do have "usable" ones, but they are disintegrating in front of me eyes!
I need to brush off the powder that the surface has turned into, but I'm afraid the grills will break off. If I can get to "solid" plastic, maybe some good-ole SEM interior paint will encapsulate the rest.