New Radiator Problem
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Anything is going to take a long time to warm up if only idling.
Longer still if it is rich because it is cold.
I drive as soon as the oil pressure stabilizes.
Unless it is so cold that my breath freezes on the inside of the windshield.
Longer still if it is rich because it is cold.
I drive as soon as the oil pressure stabilizes.
Unless it is so cold that my breath freezes on the inside of the windshield.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Central OR
The temp on the gauge after about 30 minutes at fast idle 2000 rpm was running steady between the R and M of normal. The IR temp on the cylinders between the spark plugs was 213* steady. This was from previous test. Before I changed radiator after 5 minutes of fast idle gauge would read this.
Tomorrow I will start up and time how long it takes..
Thanks for taking the time to help out with this.
Tomorrow I will start up and time how long it takes..
Thanks for taking the time to help out with this.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,491
Likes: 26
From: Algona,WA
When I had the electric choke on my truck, it would come off fast and the truck would idle slow. It took FOREVER for it to warm up. Now if I keep it at about 1/2 choke and 1400-1700 RPM it warms up very fast. How fast is your engine idling when it's warming up?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Central OR
Ok, here we go again. Started truck, no movement of coolant cold. At high idle of around 1800 rpm coolant started to move after 3 1/2 to 4 minutes. Coolant then started to rise and flow out of opening. I then reinstalled cap and watched gauge. Gauge settled just to the left of N of Normal. Watched gauge and it would move down and back up slightly. I'm assuming this would be the stat opening and closing. Maybe it's just running a little cooler with new radiator.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
That sounds normal. And, with a good radiator and/or in cool temps you can see the factory gauge move up and down a bit as the thermostat opens and closes. An aftermarket gauge will show the movements better as the factory gauges use heat to cause the needle to move and the heat tends to average out changing readings.
However, check the thermostat housing with the non-contact thermometer (IR, Jim
) and see what you are running. If it is running about 190 degrees then your gauge is off as the ones I've "calibrated" show between the R and M for 190 degrees. In any event, I strongly recommend an aftermarket gauge as even the inexpensive ones do a much better job than the factory gauges of giving a good reading that means something.
However, check the thermostat housing with the non-contact thermometer (IR, Jim
) and see what you are running. If it is running about 190 degrees then your gauge is off as the ones I've "calibrated" show between the R and M for 190 degrees. In any event, I strongly recommend an aftermarket gauge as even the inexpensive ones do a much better job than the factory gauges of giving a good reading that means something.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
In fact, that's how the coolant recovery systems work. As the coolant heats up and expands it creates a pressure on the system. When it reaches the limit of the radiator cap, which is 13 psi on most of these, the pop-off valve opens on the cap and lets coolant flow out the hose and into the recovery bottle. Then, when the engine cools and the coolant contracts a check valve opens in the radiator cap and the slight vacuum created pulls coolant back into the radiator. That's why the later recovery bottles have a "Full Cold" line at the bottom and a "Full Hot" line much higher up. The coolant has that much expansion.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Central OR
Well, it looks as though I was worried about nothing. I will keep an eye on things and get an aftermarket gauge to get a more accurate reading.
Really appreciate all the help with this. I have learned a considerable amount from this...
Thanks again, nash
Really appreciate all the help with this. I have learned a considerable amount from this...
Thanks again, nash
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Nash - I think you fixed a problem with the 'stat, so this hasn't been for naught.
On the aftermarket gauges, you will find two kinds - mechanical and electrical. The mechanical are a pain as the temp gauge has a permanently-attached sender, so you have to drill a fair-sized hole in the firewall, thread a grommet over it, and then pass it through the firewall. But, most mechanical gauges have a 270 degree sweep so they can be read much easier than the electrical ones with a 90 degree sweep. And, there's little to go wrong with them. So, that's the ones I use.
On the aftermarket gauges, you will find two kinds - mechanical and electrical. The mechanical are a pain as the temp gauge has a permanently-attached sender, so you have to drill a fair-sized hole in the firewall, thread a grommet over it, and then pass it through the firewall. But, most mechanical gauges have a 270 degree sweep so they can be read much easier than the electrical ones with a 90 degree sweep. And, there's little to go wrong with them. So, that's the ones I use.
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