New Radiator Problem
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
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From: Central OR
Gary, I have noticed that when the tstat is installed in new tstat housing that It fits in there loose. It's not a tight fit. I can reach in the tstat housing and rattle it around. The tstat housing is new.
Not sure how much flow I should see in the radiator, but I do see movement. Also the new motorcraft stat has a bleeder hole in it and was installed with hole up.
Not sure how much flow I should see in the radiator, but I do see movement. Also the new motorcraft stat has a bleeder hole in it and was installed with hole up.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
If you see flow in the radiator immediately after starting the engine then the thermostat isn't blocking the flow as it should. And if it fits loosely in the housing that may be the issue. Is the new housing a name brand or something like a Mr Gasket? Do you have the old one?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Central OR
New was purchased at Carquest, don't remember what brand. No, I don't have the old one. Old won was pitted just enough I couldn't get the gasket to seal. Also noticed that upper hose gets pressurized when it starts to get warm.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I just caught up on this thread.
Gary fingered MG before I got a chance.
There had too be a common denominator that wasn't present before.
If you can rattle the thermostat around, how could you consider it would be sealing properly?
Gary fingered MG before I got a chance.
There had too be a common denominator that wasn't present before.
If you can rattle the thermostat around, how could you consider it would be sealing properly?
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
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From: Central OR
I pulled the stat housing off again to see what was going on. Noticed the hole in gasket was bigger than the thermostat so wasn't sealing the stat. I'm sure that was causing it to be loose in the housing. Had another gasket that actually sealed the housing and the stat. Reinstalled and stat was tight in housing. Filled it back up, started truck. Temperature improved a little bit, not up to where it was before new radiator.
Now this just a thought, could the old radiator have been plugged enough and the water pump be worn enough that it cooled ok. Hope this makes sense.
Now this just a thought, could the old radiator have been plugged enough and the water pump be worn enough that it cooled ok. Hope this makes sense.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
The radiator doesn't have anything to do with how fast an engine warms up when the cooling system operates properly. That's because the thermostat will be closed until the engine is warm, so coolant doesn't flow through the radiator. So, unless your system was operating incorrectly before, the radiator change will not have made a difference.
If you still have coolant flow in the radiator before the engine warms up then I still think you have a problem with the housing or the thermostat. Please check the flow and let us know.
If you still have coolant flow in the radiator before the engine warms up then I still think you have a problem with the housing or the thermostat. Please check the flow and let us know.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Central OR
Hope everyone had a great holiday. Ok, when engine is started and cold there is no movement of fluid in radiator, so I don't think it's the stat or the housing. Water pump maybe?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, a very good holiday, thanks.
Ok, if there's no flow then the thermostat is closed. On problem down.
If the pump doesn't work at all then the temp sender won't get any flow past it and it will look like the engine is slow to warm up. But, when it does get warm it is going to overheat, badly. So, does your truck's temp stay at a given spot on the gauge? And, have you ascertained what that temp is with the UV thermometer? Both just idling and then after driving it?
Ok, if there's no flow then the thermostat is closed. On problem down.
If the pump doesn't work at all then the temp sender won't get any flow past it and it will look like the engine is slow to warm up. But, when it does get warm it is going to overheat, badly. So, does your truck's temp stay at a given spot on the gauge? And, have you ascertained what that temp is with the UV thermometer? Both just idling and then after driving it?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I didn't realize there were thermometers that worked on ultraviolet! 
If the impeller were rusted away you would see little flow and the truck would overheat badly.
I don't know how you could get one that was non functional.
The radiator seems to be fine from your description.
If the impeller were rusted away you would see little flow and the truck would overheat badly.
I don't know how you could get one that was non functional.
The radiator seems to be fine from your description.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Oops, make that IR. 
I think that the thermostat appears to be working properly we need to redefine what the problem is.
Nash - Could you test the truck and then tell us what it is doing wrong? And, please time how long it takes to get warm and coolant starts flowing in the radiator. It may be that it just takes longer than you think it should. Or, there may be further problems.
I think that the thermostat appears to be working properly we need to redefine what the problem is.
Nash - Could you test the truck and then tell us what it is doing wrong? And, please time how long it takes to get warm and coolant starts flowing in the radiator. It may be that it just takes longer than you think it should. Or, there may be further problems.