When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back. Any ideas? Anyone have this one yet?
Qs:
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
Could be a bad pressure switch, thats on top of the tank, more than likely the tank is not venting due to a bad evap solenoid, or a plugged line. All that stuff is under the spare tire. If you drop the spare, you will see your charcoal canister, purge valves and hoses to the fuel tank and a vacuum hose to the engine, check what looks like a corragated hose, spiders some how find there way in there and cause problems.
Thanks! Just got off phone with Ford parts. They sell a kit and a line. Both are with in a dollar of each other $176.
Dorman has two different PNs 911-283 & 911-216. Both are a 3rd of the price of the Ford part. I guess Ill have ta craw under her and drop the spare and have a look to see which one I have.
Do you know if the ECM will need to be cleared after the prob is fixed? Can I lift the battery cable to clear?
You might think about replacing your gas cap first. It will pull evap codes if not seating properly. An easy and cheap way to start.
Once you've fixed the issue, clearing the codes with an OBD ll reader will fix the issue, no need to disconnect battery.
Bob can the code be cleared by battery disc? Dont have an OBD2. I did think about the cap.
No, the code will remain even if the battery is disconnected. You will need to get that code cleared with a code clearing tool/OBD ll.
You can buy many inexpensive units for about 50 bucks and when testing for the actual issue, you might have to clear it several times until you've found the solution.
Easier to just buy or borrow one.
Think I found it? Humm that's either a spider or mud dauber plugging the vent line or the evap solenoids bad right???
Its cold and salty here. The trucks been getting a regular rinsing when possible. I rinse the dam salt out of everything to include the sheety bed rails so they dont fall out 5 years(of course adamantly excluding the foam crap in the wheel wells, DONT GET THAT SPONGE WET!!!).
So I trouble shot it today. I pulled the charcoal canister assembly to inspect. I found moisture in the solenoid its cavity and the charcoal can. So upon further investigation what I found dumb founded me once again. What are these engineers smoking when they are designing? The corrugated vent line fits into the bed rail. So every time I shoot water down the rail to rid it of dirt and salt it gets into the evap system! So it not only is getting H20 contam but Im sure its freezing the valve up! Oy! So I pulled the dam line connector out of the bed rail and tied it up pointing downward above the canister. Actually I put the end christmas tree fastener in the other hole where the one closer to the canister went pointing down. Well see if its a fix. I let it all dry out and the sol tests ok? Letcha all know after a few miles.